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Old 08-01-2010, 12:50 PM
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Cam bolts on SBC 350 different styles

Hello guys I was watching a video today on building small block chevy's and I noticed something over the last couple of years looking at videos and reading magazines that different type of bolts are being used for the cam gears.

I am doing a cam swap in a few weeks and I have always used hex head grade 8 bolts for my builds and never had any problems. I recently got a set of arp cam bolts to use this time. They are similar to a regular grade 8 bolt but they are slightly stronger.

I noticed on some engines being built they use a bolt that looks to have a built on washer area on the outer bottom of the bolt head. Are these bolts better too use then regular type bolts?
Thanks guys for any info.
Eric

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:59 PM
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don't mean to jump your thread eric,but i also would like to know about this..joe
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Old 08-01-2010, 07:35 PM
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Either style will work well. I like to use the blue loctite on the threads and torque to 20 ft lbs as these have been known to work loose.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:44 AM
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Thanks boogie appreciate it. I usually use red loctite on my cam bolts for extra insurance and never had a problem getting the bolts back off. I will torque them to 20 ftlbs like I normally do and be done with it.
Thanks a million
Eric
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:49 AM
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bolts

as long as u dont use a socket head bolt they are both fine. don't forget to put on the holding disc before the bolts are put in.. then pry up the tabs to keep the bolts from backing out. i've never use loc tite but that don't mean u can't..
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:52 AM
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oh and forgot...

"IF" u are leaving the cam timing points (dots) in the 6 and 12 o'clock position when u install the dist.. put in in pointing to #6 plug wire.. or turn the crank one full turn and put in #1 position...
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:11 AM
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Well I wish they made a cam bolt locking plate for my cam but mine is a oem factory type roller cam since my 350 block is a late model 1 piece rear main seal style. The bolt size is the same but are in closer.

I use loctite on my bolts then torque them down in three steps. So far no problems. I assume the factory does not use any type of bolt locking compound and all they do is torque down the bolts and don't use any locking plates and I have seen many cars and trucks that never had a problem but I am sure it still has happend.

If they made one I would be using it trust me.
Eric
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:39 PM
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One thing that a lot of fellows don't think to check is that the hole the bolt goes into is deep enough and has enough threads to fully accept the bolt. Might not be a problem if you are just re-using the stock hardware, but you never know when using different hardware. Bolt(s) could be a little longer and bottom out in the hole. Double check everything. TRUST NOBODY.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:06 PM
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Will do tech inspector. The arp bolts I have is the same length as stock type bolts so they should work just fine. I will loctite them like I did the ones that is already on there and it should stay good. I just wish they made a cam bolt locking plate for the oem type roller cams bolt pattern but o well it should be fine. I don't know that it happens very often of cam bolts coming loose.
Eric
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Old 08-03-2010, 05:31 PM
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cam bolts

The originals had a "built on shoulder" but that means nothing.
Like someone said, grade 8 bolts, same length as stock with red lock tight, torque to 15 to 20 lbs. I have installed thousands and never had one come loose.
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