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Old 05-20-2012, 05:27 AM
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Thanks I did run her for 15 min more.
btw here is the motor.. http://melexisfitness.com/Camaro_Pro_Touring/index.htm

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2012, 08:51 AM
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Freaking sweet ride, guy!
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:43 PM
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Freaking sweet ride, guy!
Thanks its been a long winter to get to this point.

John
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:25 PM
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cam break in

if you used a moly cam lube when asembling engine i would not change oil as you will drain out importent lube for cam survival.if engine cleaned properly no need to chang oil until at least 1000 plus miles. if you did a road side repair in a dusty windy daymay best chang oil.by the pictures that is not the case
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliff tate
if you used a moly cam lube when asembling engine i would not change oil as you will drain out importent lube for cam survival.if engine cleaned properly no need to chang oil until at least 1000 plus miles. if you did a road side repair in a dusty windy daymay best chang oil.by the pictures that is not the case
I always change it after break in, and then add more cam lube to the next oil change. When I've looked at oil after a cam break in it sparkles from the small metallic particles, and I don't want those in there any longer after the break in.
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:51 AM
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ok, so I did drain the oil and replace it with another round of break in oil and added the zinc additive. I know the next step is to seat the rings so I thought this would help.

Since this is the first motor I built I want it to last.

John
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johntm
ok, so I did drain the oil and replace it with another round of break in oil and added the zinc additive. I know the next step is to seat the rings so I thought this would help.

Since this is the first motor I built I want it to last.

John
Filter too, right? I'm pretty sure you would have, but just to be sure...
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Old 05-21-2012, 05:24 AM
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Filter too, right? I'm pretty sure you would have, but just to be sure...
Yes for sure thanks again for the info.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:12 AM
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cam break in

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
I always change it after break in, and then add more cam lube to the next oil change. When I've looked at oil after a cam break in it sparkles from the small metallic particles, and I don't want those in there any longer after the break in.
if you have metal particals you can see with the naked eye,i wouls say the cleaning job befor assembly is poor or you have a failure comeing.Oil analisis will show a small elivation of metal after a rebuild but for sure ther should not be visible debree.that is my opinion,not looking for a agument,just stating facts after working in engine rebuils for mant years(CAT dealer
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
I always change it after break in, and then add more cam lube to the next oil change. When I've looked at oil after a cam break in it sparkles from the small metallic particles, and I don't want those in there any longer after the break in.
I m with you on that. I think ring break in and any machining that was not washed off wiil cause this. Change the oil, use a good quality, Brad Penn, Valvoline, whatever with the right additives for the cam you are running. No more sparkles!!!
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Old 03-01-2013, 04:58 AM
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Guys back with another question, all good with the motor, however, I'm going to change my intake to the edbroock air gap endurashine my question is my heads will accept both a vortex or standard sbc intakes is there a benefit to which intake I go with? I know it matters on the heads but not sure on the intake.

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John
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by johntm View Post
Guys back with another question, all good with the motor, however, I'm going to change my intake to the edbroock air gap endurashine my question is my heads will accept both a vortex or standard sbc intakes is there a benefit to which intake I go with? I know it matters on the heads but not sure on the intake.

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John
It absolutely matters! The dual intake pattern is discussed here. Basically a sales ploy w/no actual value to the buyer.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:37 PM
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It absolutely matters! The dual intake pattern is discussed here. Basically a sales ploy w/no actual value to the buyer.
The guy who built my heads said I could use ether version of intakes. So now I'm confused. Any help would be great.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:03 PM
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Your heads can't accept both intakes cause they have different angles. Not sure why the engine guy would say that. They may be drilled for both but there's no way it can have different angles
Imo the air gap is a waste of money. There's no proof it does anything for performance. Single plane for normal use, dual plane for high rpm. Don't need anything fancy.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by johntm View Post
The guy who built my heads said I could use ether version of intakes. So now I'm confused. Any help would be great.
Just because an intake will physically bolt up to the heads doesn't necessarily mean the ports will be in alignment.

If the ports are like the L31 production head, the height of the port will prevent almost all intakes used on the street from fitting correctly- unless the intake is made to fit a Vortec port. There is no point in using a Vortec port if you're going to choke it off w/an intake that is a mismatch to the Vortec ports!

You can take a Vortec intake gasket (or a non Vortec gasket) and lay it against the head to see where the ports are. The photo below gives an idea of how different the port heights are. The Vortec gasket is on top of a blue FelPro gasket made to fit a non Vortec head/intake:

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