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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2004, 11:01 PM
406chevelle's Avatar
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Cam break in with duel springs

I am about ready to bolt my heads on, however I have duel springs and I have read on this board that you must break the cam in with only one spring, is this correct?

If I install my heads with only one spring for cam break in, then how do I get the duel springs back on with out pulling the heads off, and buying intake, and head gaskets at about $100?????

I am a little lost on this, an help is greatly appreciated.

400sbc
comp cam XE274H
AFR 195cc duel spring heads

406chevelle

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Old 01-11-2004, 12:02 AM
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With the engine at TDC, you have to move the rockers off to the side (just push down on the valve side and twist it off the push rod), put the crank at bottom dead center, then pressurize the cylinder with about 20 psi of air pressure. You can get a 14mm spark plug adapter (look here...http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi14.html) at a tool shop or reputable auto parts. The air pressure holds the valves in place, while you push the retainer down and off the valve stem. Pop on the new spring, retainer and rockers and you've done it. The best part about it is you don't even have to re-adjust your valves.
Mark
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:50 AM
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My AFR 185 heads came with the standard springs (Part #8020), which were duals.

The inner spring looked kind of wimpy so I checked with AFR about whether or not I really needed to remove it. With my particular cam (relatively mild), they said it wasn't necessary. My break-in went fine.

If you have the standard springs that came with the SBC 195 heads, they are the same spec as mine.

I'd check with AFR and see what they recommend. It may be you can get away with not removing the inner springs.
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Old 01-11-2004, 12:36 PM
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If the springs are matched to the cam and NOT on the stiff side, you will probably be fine with the dual springs. Your cam is not that radical, so you really don't need high pressure springs, since this is the case (if the springs are within cam specs) you should be ok.

Make sure you don't let the engine idle at all and that you use plenty of cam lube and prelube the engine.

If the springs are a little stiff for the cam you selected I would remove the inner spring for break in. (better safe than sorry)

Royce
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Old 01-11-2004, 02:27 PM
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Those springs are dual but the inner is more like a damper spring,like the they say not that high seat pressure.I like to use moly grease on new cams instead of cam lube.
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Old 01-11-2004, 05:47 PM
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Thanks to everyone that replied!!!

I will contact AFR tomorrow and get the scoop, but it sounds like I will be safe leaving the dual springs on for break in.

When I put the cam in, I put the cam lube on it before putting the crank, rods, and pistons in, but the cam lube is dripping off the cam all over the place, should I have waited to put the cam lube on??????

Will I need to put more cam lube on right before I put the lifters in???

What process for cam lube does the experts use??? Come on now you may not think so but you are an expert. LOL

406chevelle
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:13 PM
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Hi all, just want to pass on another GEEZER trick for changing valve springs.
Find a 3 to 4 foot piece of braided cord,(clothes line, sash cord, etc.)between 1/4 " and 3/8" diameter,(nylon works best,hot cut or melt the ends so it won't ravel ) tie a knot in one end.
Put the piston at bottom dead center, (not critical) stuff the rope down the spark plug hole,( a couple feet is fine)and slowly bring the piston up until it stops. the rope is holding the valve head tight against the seat. Now, you can pop the retainers and keepers off, change the springs and put them back, with no danger of dropping the valve down into the cylinder, past the top of the guide. with the "air hold "system, it's real easy to un seat the valve while compressing the springs, and drop one out of sight. BEEN THERE / DONE THAT...
An old spark plug wire, with the metal connector cut off one end will work also.( not solid core wires )
Stuff rags or rubber stoppers into the oil drain holes in the head, saves dropping the pan to retrieve that keeper when you drop it.
C- YA Paul
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:30 PM
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Geezer Trick! LOL!!!

Maybe we ought to start a thread for all of us over 50! We can talk about changing point and plugs every 3000 miles!

Bluesman
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:46 PM
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Hey bluesman123

A lot of you guys that are over 50 have more to teach us youngsters than any of us could ever imagine, not only in cars but life in general, so go a head and start your thread, I will just sit in the corner a listen. LOL

406chevelle
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:52 PM
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just wondering but what will happen if you leave the second spring in on a say 270H comp cam while breakin it in??
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:19 PM
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There is a possibility that you could shave off some of the lobes during break in, or even mess the cam up so you lose lobes within the first 1000 miles.

Just what I have heard.

406chevelle
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Old 01-11-2004, 10:40 PM
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Thats the problem with cam lube it runs off the cam pretty quickly,especially when the motor sits for awhile before its prime and flashup time.I coat all the lobes with molly grease,prime the motor fire it up and bring the rpm to 2000 or so for 10-15 mins,checking for any visable problems,shut her down,hook up vac guage and timing light,fire it up do my adjutments,drive around lots of rpm changes,new oil and filter next morning drive for 500 or so miles,new oil+filter,when i get about 1500 to 2000 miles on it I work on dialing in the motor and getting on it and then switch to amsoil 10-30synthetic,I use castrol 10-30 dino oil at first and a180 t-stat and then switch to a 160 t-stat.This has worked for me.
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Old 01-12-2004, 06:41 AM
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I talked to one of the techs at Comp cams about the lube package they supply with their cams. The tech said it's good for a few days after install. I was concerned because I wasn't going to be firing my new engine for a few weeks.

Since that time I've always used Red Line Assembly Lube for cam install (also on the bottom end on fresh engines). And I throw in a quart of EOS for some extra insurance.
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:16 AM
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331/254/392 hemis came stock with dual, full wire springs and they are broken-in with all springs in place.
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:36 AM
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With the closing down of companines and the stopping production of flat lifters by companies in the last 2 years, I would highly stress the removal of the inner spring. The cost of labor to do this and then replace is much cheaper then replacing a cam and lifter that has gone south. One other trick is to over fill the crank case with oil during break in. The crank will splash oil on the cam and help with break in lubrication. This is fine up to 2500 rpm. Do not exceed with extra oil.

Chris
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