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Old 10-08-2010, 11:32 AM
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Cam break in Oil question?

I'm getting ready to break in my new comp cam "flat tappet" solid lifters and will be using Mobil racing oil and Lucas break in additive . When would I change oil after break in? Racing oil and additive cost alittle change and I don't want to change it until Its required! When I talked to comp cam rep before I purchased the cam he told me to use additive with every oil change? I'm not trying to sound cheap , just don't have money to throw around!

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Old 10-08-2010, 12:04 PM
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I've always run my first crankcase for about 6 to 10 hours. Then, full change with filter. Comp rep is close to being right. You don't need an additive for every oil change but you do need an oil with ZDDP in it. I always use Valvoline VR1 racing oil and have never flattened a lobe.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckboy61
I'm getting ready to break in my new comp cam "flat tappet" solid lifters and will be using Mobil racing oil and Lucas break in additive . When would I change oil after break in? Racing oil and additive cost alittle change and I don't want to change it until Its required! When I talked to comp cam rep before I purchased the cam he told me to use additive with every oil change? I'm not trying to sound cheap , just don't have money to throw around!
Modern oils have reduced or eliminated a compound called ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) for the purpose of extending catalytic converter life. This molecule among other things provided for high pressure lube in places where a hydrodynamic wedge between working parts would not form, lifter to lobe being the classic of those places within an engine. The loss of this material is why the OEMs started to go to roller cams back in the mid 1980's.

For a flat tappet cam, the continued use of ZDDP additives with each oil change and frequent oil and filter changes are your cheapest insurance against lobe and follower failure in this day and age. To a very large extent lobe lift rates, rocker ratio and strength of the valve spring are big players. Needless to say fast lift rates, high ratio rockers, and strong springs increase the forces in the valve train and the wear rates of all parts there-in, especially the cam lobe and lifter.

Bogie
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:58 PM
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I have gone back to using the Kendall GT1 oil, now marketed by Brad-Penn, for use in flat tappet engines. Its fairly cheap at about $4 per quart and has the correct additive package. They also offer a synthetic version.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport
I have gone back to using the Kendall GT1 oil, now marketed by Brad-Penn, for use in flat tappet engines. Its fairly cheap at about $4 per quart and has the correct additive package. They also offer a synthetic version.

That is incorrect. Brad-Penn USED to be great stuff, but its changed. The best bang for the buck seems to be running Summit's house brand racing oil.

You can stop using additives when you want an excuse to swap cams- shortly there after you'll probably need to change your cam.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbolover
That is incorrect. Brad-Penn USED to be great stuff, but its changed. The best bang for the buck seems to be running Summit's house brand racing oil.

You can stop using additives when you want an excuse to swap cams- shortly there after you'll probably need to change your cam.
Oh No. What happened? I started buying the Brad-Penn a couple years ago and have been pleased with it so far. I have a bunch of it on the shelf now.
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Old 10-08-2010, 03:33 PM
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How long after break in while I have to change oil ? And will new filter be necessasery with that first change? It sounds like oil change would be right after the fist 1/2 hr break in ?
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckboy61
How long after break in while I have to change oil ? And will new filter be necessasery with that first change? It sounds like oil change would be right after the fist 1/2 hr break in ?
Change just the filter after the initial break-in, as it has caught all the initial trash ...and leave the oil heavy with concentrate in there for a few hundred miles, then dump it and change the filter again.
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:28 PM
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IMHO it is best to change the oil and filter right after the break in period to rid the oil of the cam lube that was used. Always use additive following the manf instructions, I like AC delco EOS I use half a bottle every oil change. Too much supplement can cause problems too. You don't need expensive oil when using the additives for a mild street motor but not sure what you have there. Rotella 15-40 T is my choice its less expensive but not "cheap", never had issues with cam break in using this brand and AC EOS. It used to be that GM labeled this EOS (engine oil supplement) then it was changed to AC Delco EOS. GM recommended it originally for engine assembly, I have always coated the cam and lifter base with the thick cam lube, then dunked the lifter in EOS, then poured EOS over the lifters in the valley before the intake goes on, talk about flat tappet cam fatigue. Good luck.
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckboy61
How long after break in while I have to change oil ? And will new filter be necessasery with that first change? It sounds like oil change would be right after the fist 1/2 hr break in ?
The oil additives will not harm anything, other than oil rich in moly will loose it to the filter which could plug the filter making you dependant on the filter's by-pass valve being workable.

That if you have a moly additive and the junk that comes out in the initial run in needs to be removed. The junk will be fine, or at least hopefully fine, metal particles as parts mate together. So a filter change soon after the initial start up is a good idea like an hour or so of run time, less if the engine was hard to start and a lot of fuel contaminated the oil. Then do a change of oil and filter around 500 miles and then what ever you consider normal after that.

Bogie
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Old 10-08-2010, 11:38 PM
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Flat tappet cams like over 1200 ppm ZDDP in the oil.
Go to the oil manufacturer's web site to check out the specs on the oil you want to use.

I change oil and filter after break in.

I use Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 dino oil in my 383 stroker with a CC XE274H cam. No problems.
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:25 PM
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There is some really good info here so far. Rotella oil is good stuff and it does have more Zinc than most oils BUT it also has more Detergent. Not saying there's anything wrong with that oil but I wouldn't use something that's designed for diesels in my non diesel engine. The limit on Zinc that you will find from "Off the shelf" oil is 1200ppm. That figure is about to go even lower in 2011. Oil companies are reducing the amount of Zinc in oil to help the engines run cleaner. They could simply make the catalytic converters bigger but the cost of Platinum/Palladum is way too high.

I just sat through a class on oil from Lake Speed Jr. Wow, this guy knows his stuff! When it comes to cams and break in oil...expensive oil is cheaper than starting over with a new engine.

Check out this site for some very good info...
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...ter/index.html
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:57 AM
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Anytime I`ve did a cam break in I always change the oil directly after, and not just a quicky change, I let it sit a couple of hours before I plug it back up and pour new oil in. I don`t think you need additive every oil change. I don`t think they were considering you running oil that already has ZDDP in it.
The valvoline racing oil has ZDDP and it seems to work nicely. But, in the past I`ve also used regular non ZDDP oil and poured in a bottle of STP oil treatment which worked just as well plus it`s cheap.
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