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Old 03-26-2011, 12:49 PM
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Cam compatability

Ok guys I need some direction here. I have an 86-88 4 bolt that I am building into a 383 stroker and have run into a little problem. Everythng I bought and am able to swap over from my existing block is for a 2 piece rear main and the newer block is a 1 pc. When I went to install the cam from my other engine(which only has 3 dyno run hrs on it) I notice that the front where the cam gear goes is different. This is when I actually looked and ran the block numbes and found out it's the '86-'88 roller motor. My question is this: Can I install the hydraulic flat tappet cam and new lifters and if so are there any cons to doing this. Secondly, if I can use teh hydraulic cam do I need to buy some type of plate for behind the cam gear so it won't rub as it is totally flat behind where the gear goes unlike the older block that has a 3/8" raised shoulder. Thanks for any help you can throw my way as this build has been trying to say the least.

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Old 03-26-2011, 12:57 PM
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Its a really bad idea to try and move this cam to a new block.

A really good time to get a hyd roller cam.
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:06 PM
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Cam swap

I just spent over $230 bucks on the cam when I put it in the last motor and ran it on the dyno for the 3 hours. The cam is good with absolutely no wear or heat stress since it was only in a short time, but I plan on throwing out the lifters if I can do the swap. Just trying to use what is still good if I can. I don't know anything about roller cams, but from looking at Summit and Jegs I would be looking at around $475 for cam and rollers at a minimum--is that about right?
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:58 PM
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Howards hyd roller cam $255 howards OEM roller lifters $159.

Thats $414 A small base circle cam may be more. (stroker motor rod cam clearance)

Get some used 88 up OEM roller block pushrods. You can even reuse good GM OEM roller lifters. (TPI motor, vortec motor etc)



You have a less than 50-50 chance of a sucessfull transplant reguardless of how good the cam looks to you.

The hyd roller cam will make more power too.

There is a special top timing gear to adapt a old style flat tappet cam in this block. I do not know the part number. The cam retaining plate is not used with a flat tappet cam. The taper of the flat tappet cam controls cam walk.

Its a bad idea anyway.

Sell your cam. What cam is it anyways?

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-26-2011 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:15 PM
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If you just got to do this, I recomend the high quality GM flat tappet hyd lifters with the hard steel alloy foot.

I use this stuff in motors with a flat tappet cam.
www.molyslip.com It works.

I recomend reduced spring pressure and rocker ratio (1.5) for initial run in.

Do not change the oil. Leave the molyslip E additive in and let it work. Just change the filter.
Avoid low idle speed for the first 500miles of driving. 1000++ idle speed.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:30 PM
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Well this is gonna take me a little bit of time to figure out which rollre cam combo to get. The other cam, don't have the spec in front of me but pretty sure Comp cam with 255 int/265 exh lift and 540 int/563 exh. I run 72cc Aluminum heads, holley 650 vac secondaries, and a Weiand 142 blower at 7.2lbs boost so pretty sure that was the cam the program came up with to make the power. I don't have a good machine shop anywhere around so have to make calls to get some help on where to get the best deals on some NEW parts I guess, I will check out the ones you mentioned in your thread also. Only good thing is the old block and parts will go for a couple bucks towards the new parts. Thanks for the info
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:40 PM
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Comp cam with 255 int/265 exh lift and 540 int/563 exh

This is a Comp solid lifter blower cam.

A 650cfm carb is way too small with this cam on a blower motor.

Why are you changing the block?
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:08 PM
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Machine shop had the 4-bolt with all the work already done (bored .030, fluxed, honed and freeze plugs installed) for $200 so I figured what the heck go with the stronger 4-bolt at that price. Beginning to think that was a bad idea. Just sucking up the cash now, was hoping to get it going in the next 2 weeks-but since I need to spend for the cam and lifters that will get pushed. I'll let ya know what I decide on for cam/lifters. I'm sure it will be hydraulic not solid as I have enough engine nosie with the blower, gear drive and exhaust. Oh my bad I put 650 Holley, it's 750 vac sec and I believe 74 jets for mains and 69 for secondaries--least I think that is what the sheet said when we were done. That's all gonna change when I get it back on the dyno and get it tuned though
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:20 PM
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Sounds like you are not real clear at all on this stuff.
Lots of what you say is conflicting about this combo.

The secondary jetting sounds way off. (unless you also have a power valve on the secondary side too.)

If you don't want a noisy motor why the &^% would you want a gear drive.?

Gear drives give up about 25hp thru bad harmonics transfered from the crank to the cam.

Ditch the gear drive.

If this is the cam you did use it will want to rev up quite high.

This is a big cam for the little 144 blower.

You need to verify what you really got.

A 4 bolt block is no stronger than a 2 bolt block. (but the caps are less likely to walk)

You still didn;t say why you are swapping the block after only 3 hours dyno time.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-26-2011 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:34 PM
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If you dynoed this motor can you post the dyno sheet results?
I'd like to see where you are at.

Post more detail on the combo. Blower drive ratio, etc etc.

A gear drive probabily won;t even fit the new block without machining.

You really need to ditch that dog. A good chain and gears makes more power.
(yes dyno tested verified)

I may be able to help with the cam or a new cam and a few other things to sweeten this up.

Are you changing the crank, or rods too. (details)

Solid lifter cams are not noisey.

In fact a spunky little mechanical street roller would make this motor really rock. Blower motors like to rev. Ditch the gear drive and you will end up with a MUCH MUCH quieter motor.

Did I mention M -U -C _H Q-U-i-E -T _E -R ...?

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-26-2011 at 04:42 PM.
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