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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2006, 10:22 PM
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Well the more time I spend thinking about changing the whole setup, the more I realize it will cost more a good bit more, even considering me getting all of my money back for the stuff I have. Let me tell you, this really sucks.

Ok, I've been thinking about advancing/retarding the cam. This part always confuses me. Right now the cam is installed on the 106 intake centerline. When I installed it straight up, it was at 100, so I advanced the cam 6 per Chet. If I understand this correctly, this will bring my piston/valve clearance down (Intake) . By retarding the cam back to straight up, shouldn't I increase my intake clearance? The only gripe I have with this is that they originally told me to run the 106 and changing that is going to change the way the cam behaves in the engine, if it even solves the problem.

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Old 12-09-2006, 07:01 AM
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If you were at 100 and advanced it 6 degrees you would be at 94 degrees BTDC which would give you even less P/V clearance. How did you check your P/V Clearance, clay or dial indicator?
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Old 12-09-2006, 09:36 AM
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That's what always confuses me, whether it's advanced or retarded. I checked it with a dial indicator.
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:20 AM
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Any time you use racing type roller cams you run into this kind of stuff. Your engine build is no longer a bolt on style assembly when you use cams like these.



Brian
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2006, 10:50 AM
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I dont understand why he would recommend a cam that large for a set of heads that small. They only have a 170cc intake port, and are recommended for an RPM range of 1500-6500. As a comparison, the Comp XR292R (254 260 @.050 .621 .627 lift 110 lsa) is recommended for 3200-7200 RPM. Beyond that, this is a small motor. The XR292R needs 11:1 or more and a 3500 stall in a 351. The fact that your motor is smaller increases those numbers, and your cam is bigger than one I mentioned. I think you will need at least a 4000 stall if you want to be in the power range of the cam when you nail it, and I think you are running a little low on compression. It is frustrating to me that a respected company like that would recommend this cam for you. It doesnt hurt to give it a shot, and it is not like the engine wont start and make the car move with this cam (unless the pistons hit the valves). But if you decide you dont like it, and want to change your cam after you have tried it, I doubt he will give you your money back, and this will become a very expensive experiment.

Adam

Last edited by firestone; 12-09-2006 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:59 AM
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That's why I really can't decide what to do. I'm not even sure if Chet will take the stuff back, but if he did, I would end up with a set of stock edelbrock springs/retainers/locks, 6.2" pushrods and no lifters. I would have just under $1000 to spend. What would you guys do for my particular setup? Hydraulic Roller with lesser spring rate/less lift or mechanical roller with more lift? No one recommended a solid roller until I spoke with Chet. Throw some ideas out there for me, cause I really need to figure out exactly what I am going to do before I go any further.

I appreciate you guys help with this, hopefully I will be able to work something out that will work with my setup.
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Old 12-09-2006, 11:07 AM
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If you dont mind setting the valve lash, I would stick with the solid roller. Just get a smaller cam. For example, (and again, this is a 351 cam) the Xr280R cam from comp (242 248 @.050 .608 .612 lift 110 lsa) is recommended for 2500-6500 RPM. That sounds to me like it would work well with your heads based on edelbrocks recommendation for them. Also, it needs 3.70-3.90 rear gears, 10:1 compression, and a 2800 stall. Again, your motor is a little smaller than this one, so being that you have a little more gear, compression, and stall, it seems that something along the lines of this would work about perfectly.

Adam
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2006, 11:10 AM
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We got our cam from Camcraft in Maryland. I told him exactly what we were doing and where we needed to make power. He recommended a specific custom cam, even warned me that the idle would be smooth, as if that mattered to me. I would call Charles and talk to him about what he would recommend.

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8357 Black Dog Alley, Easton, MD 21601
Phone (410)822-2122 (800)426-2261 Fax (410)822-0121
e-mail: charles@camcraftcams.com

http://www.camcraftcams.com/index2.html
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Old 12-09-2006, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onovakind67
We got our cam from Camcraft in Maryland. I told him exactly what we were doing and where we needed to make power. He recommended a specific custom cam, even warned me that the idle would be smooth, as if that mattered to me. I would call Charles and talk to him about what he would recommend.

Camcraft Cams
8357 Black Dog Alley, Easton, MD 21601
Phone (410)822-2122 (800)426-2261 Fax (410)822-0121
e-mail: charles@camcraftcams.com

http://www.camcraftcams.com/index2.html

I've dealt with Charles a couple of times myself. Good guy who knows his stuff.

I ditto what Firestone is saying, too big a cam for your combination unless those are a very warmed over set of heads and not the stock Edelbrock RPM's.
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Old 12-09-2006, 07:27 PM
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Nope they are the stock RPM heads. That's what I am leaning towards, as long as Chet refunding my money for the parts is an option. I was looking more at the summit parts, and I see they even have cam kits with springs and lifters (hydraulic roller) for 400-700 bucks. I really just need some suggestions as to the cam specs for my setup. I definitely want to stay with the roller cam, but whether it's hydraulic or solid would work for me, even though I have never run a solid cam before. Adjusting lash is not a big deal. I guess what I need to do first is talk to chet, and decide what I want to run.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2006, 12:12 AM
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Well I went and checked the exhaust/piston clearance at overlap. I have even less there - it comes in at a hair over .050", where the intake was at about .065". From the little knowledge I have with this stuff, advancing or retarding the cam will not fix this since they are both (exhaust & intake) too close to the piston, correct?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2006, 04:47 AM
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One more time, a Forum just for SBF cams
http://sbftech.com/index.php/board,50.0.html
Jay should be able to tell you what will work
and what will not. He grinds custom cams for
SBF's
Unless you are just looking for someone to
agree with what you have. Then when things go
bad you can say, "Well he said...". Then SBF is
not the place for you.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2006, 10:23 AM
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No definitely not what I'm looking for. I would love it if someone could honestly tell me a way that the cam I have would work, but knowing that I have even less piston/valve clearance on the exhaust side, I know that I will not hear that.

I may not have the option to go with Jay at this point, because I have a feeling that I will not be able to get a REFUND from Chet. I think if I can come up with a grind that I want, he will do an exchange though. I will check out SBFtech and see what info they can give me. Thanks, and if there are any specific grind recommendations, feel free to throw them out there.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2006, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisT
No definitely not what I'm looking for. I would love it if someone could honestly tell me a way that the cam I have would work, but knowing that I have even less piston/valve clearance on the exhaust side, I know that I will not hear that.

I may not have the option to go with Jay at this point, because I have a feeling that I will not be able to get a REFUND from Chet. I think if I can come up with a grind that I want, he will do an exchange though. I will check out SBFtech and see what info they can give me. Thanks, and if there are any specific grind recommendations, feel free to throw them out there.
If you cannot get a refund from chet that would be very poor business on his behalf, and he should feel very obligated to give you all your money back on all the parts he recommended as they do not work as planned. You should ask very bluntly for a refund do not ask him what he wants to give up or trade for.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2006, 11:37 AM
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I'll agree with you fully on that one. Unfortunately, from the way he came across, I don't think he feels obligated to do anything to help me...

That is going to be my first course of action (ask for refund). I need to have a back up plan in case I don't have that option. I would really like to just get a refund and re-attack this whole situation. I've seen several roller cam kits on summit that look like they may be close to what I'm looking for, but I will need to check into them some more.
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