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Old 12-17-2012, 10:18 PM
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Cam lope in cold weather?

For those in the north (and FAR south), how do cams with a lope run in cold weather? Not just 20*, I'm talking the -30~-50 below we see in Alaska.
Motor will be a goodwrench 350, 8.5:1Cr, thumpr cam, 600 edelbrock, MSD ignition, in a chevy pickup with a 4spd.

How's the cold starts? I don't want to go to the grocery store and have it not start an hour later..
This is all assuming Its tuned up and running good of course.
I can say I do like the extra power @-30 below, if only I could get traction

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Old 12-17-2012, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QParker View Post
For those in the north (and FAR south), how do cams with a lope run in cold weather? Not just 20*, I'm talking the -30~-50 below we see in Alaska.
Motor will be a goodwrench 350, 8.5:1Cr, thumpr cam, 600 edelbrock, MSD ignition, in a chevy pickup with a 4spd.

How's the cold starts? I don't want to go to the grocery store and have it not start an hour later..
This is all assuming Its tuned up and running good of course.
I can say I do like the extra power @-30 below, if only I could get traction
I suspect that once the motor is up to operating temp, it'll sound the same whether It's in Fairbanks or in Miami. The difference will be that in Fairbanks, you won't want to stand outside and listen to it for very long.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:19 AM
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I'm sure it'll sound the same, but will it start? Will it stay running, without me having to rev it to 2k until it's warmed up? Is it going to pop right off, first crank like it did stock, or is it going to crank until the battery's dead, and need a shot of Ether to fire?
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:23 AM
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fuel injection would be better.The lope sounds different with injection

Do you get carb icing up there? I had it a couple times in Vancouver.You should build a warm air box off the exhaust system
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:35 AM
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With the amount of timing your going to have to run with a thmpr and 8.5 comp its not gonna wanna start anyways so the cold will likely help.....
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:50 PM
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Ive personally never had ice up problems, but I like to run Heet in my rigs, which I think helps. I know that guys who run air gap intakes play hell in cold weather, fuel condenses, ect.
I had to run a water heated carb plenum on my airboat when it had an air gap intake, and that helped, but it was still cold blooded below about 50 degrees.

But none of that's a problem.
And I'm curious, how would cold weather Help it start?
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:26 PM
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"Techinspector1" is correct. I have had a Firebird with a healthy cam and one time in Alberta we had a sudden temperature drop from +40's to -25 in just 12 hours...it was running higher compression but when it warmed up it was fine...the vehicle should start fine within an hour, it's when you leave it outside long enough for the oil to get thick is when you have something to worry about. If you plan on running the truck all winter, most definitely run synthetic..I usually never drove it in cold weather like that but I didn't have a choice this time.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QParker View Post
Ive personally never had ice up problems, but I like to run Heet in my rigs, which I think helps. I know that guys who run air gap intakes play hell in cold weather, fuel condenses, ect.
I had to run a water heated carb plenum on my airboat when it had an air gap intake, and that helped, but it was still cold blooded below about 50 degrees.

But none of that's a problem.
And I'm curious, how would cold weather Help it start?
I was mostly being a ********, I apologize....I had/have a thmpr cam, and it needed a bunch of timing to run decent, without an ignition interrupt or a start retard it won't wanna start when hot with a bunch of timing....easy fix, but just not a fan of the thmpr....
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:40 PM
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And here I was thinking about dynamic compression ratios vs the denser A/F charge, ect.

Isn't more timing/less compression better than less timing/more compression, to an extent of course?
And would I be able to set my base timing low enough, then pick it up with my vac/mech advance?
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:55 PM
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Widetrack, I run 0w30 full synthetic and a quart of Lucas 'syrup' in the winter, and 15w40 with a quart of Lucas in the summer. STD oil pump, but I cleaned up the drains and smoothed out the inlet where the oil pump bolts on. 20#'s at idle, 65#'s max. I'm a born and raised Alaskan, and I've had plenty of experience with thick oil. I won't start an engine if the oil won't drip off the dip stick.
Not to mention I have two block heaters, a circulating heater, a pan heater and a trickle charger to make sure everything is up to the task in case I ever do have to leave it outside for an extended period of time.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:28 PM
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Being that you have experience with our northern climate and what's required to keep a car mobile in these cold conditions ...throw some 3 inch wood screws in the lugs on the tires, run an inner tube with a liner and have fun ice racing...It worked for my 10 speed 100cc Kawasaki...no reason it can't work on a truck...LOL.

You've got it covered...best of luck to you my friend...many people don't know what a block heater is, let alone a circulating one. The only two species of northern climate members of the human race that are tougher than a Canadian would be the Inuit and their dog sleds and people from Alaska.

The funny thing is, It's not to far from the truth. the coldest I've seen in Northern Saskatchewan was -48 Celsius...thank God my car was covered in snow or it would've never started.

Just off topic, but interesting, I remember my father in a cold spell in January one winter getting a roll of toilet paper, soaking it in kerosine and letting it slow burn under the oil pan until the oil got warm enough to turn the engine over.

Ray
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:26 AM
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I've got some Yupik in my blood, not nearly enough make me choose a dog team over my Polaris though

But back on subject, with the goodwrench heads I'm running, (Mexican't clones of 993's) with their 76cc chambers, how would using the set of 186 double humps be? Not only would they flow alot better, but with 64cc chambers, what would that do for my compression?
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:06 AM
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Would advancing the cam a couple degrees help make a little extra torque with my low compression?
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:12 PM
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The 64cc heads will raise the cr a by about .80 . thats assuming you use the same gasket thickness.
Use a thin .015" gasket for max effect.

thumpr cam timing. Recurve the distributor for 24deg base at idle and 34-36deg at max mech advance
limited 10deg mech advance curve stop limit.

A thumpr cammed motor needs this much base timing. the limited mech adv travel allows this.

vacuum advance should be about 10-12deg at hiway cruise.
use the ported vac source.

very cold weather warm up. Do not allow the engine to idle slow, when cold.
Don;t matter what cam is in it. That is what the choke and fast idle linkage are for.
If you need more control over the choke and fast idle than a auto choke allows
install and use a manual cable operated choke and a manual cable operated throttle (idle speed) control.
Old trucks used to all have these. real nice in very cold weather.
In very cold weather a heated intake-cab plenum is nice too. As well as the OEM style heated air cleaner.

cold air and power: having the air enter the engine too cold is almost as bad as too hot.
Cause the fuel will not vapourize fully. Liquid fuel will not burn.

You don't need to move the cam, its already "advanced"

If you think a thumpr cam is going to be as winter friendly as the stock cam is,,,,
warm up etc... give you head a shake..

Head swap for more compression. The 58cc 305HO heads are a popular swap too, on these motors.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 12-22-2012 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:38 PM
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to answer your question,advancing a cam 2 degrees or retarding a cam 2 degrees can lower or raise the RPM range 2 or 300 rpm. Its usually done if the cam was not chosen correctly.
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