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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2012, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
is this a competitive mudding truck, or a toy mudding truck? If its just a toy then don't worry about every last hp, I've gone mudding with little 4 bangers, and a lot of other people have to. Actually, the most important part of building for mud is DURABILITY. Don't max out your compression ratio and run extra cooling for when it packs full of mud.

hitting old forrestry roads is a LOT different than competitive mud bogs, and I'm not sure which you're referring to.
Good point to bring up, this is strictly a toy, nothing show or competition, we have a local mud hole and drag strip, and I would rather build a drag s10 or nova, but all my buddies are into trucks right now, so go fast toy comes later in life.

It will be for toying in the local mud hole, and also has to get me through the woods, the kind with no people for tens of miles and no cell service. That's why I'm thinking that 1002 might be better choice? I can run that with the press in studs and stock springs right?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2012, 10:54 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Originally Posted by Brandon H. View Post
Good point to bring up, this is strictly a toy, nothing show or competition, we have a local mud hole and drag strip, and I would rather build a drag s10 or nova, but all my buddies are into trucks right now, so go fast toy comes later in life.

It will be for toying in the local mud hole, and also has to get me through the woods, the kind with no people for tens of miles and no cell service. That's why I'm thinking that 1002 might be better choice? I can run that with the press in studs and stock springs right?
WRONG!!!

I wouldn't trust a stock cam with stock springs and press in studs. converting to shoulderless screw in studs is relatively cheap and easy, as is swapping in a set of 1943x valve springs. press in studs have pulled out with a stock cam, and stock springs have failed with a stock cam- neither is that great.

For a cam with a good sound and still has good midrange there are two cheap cams I would look at:

Summit Racing® Cam and Lifter Kits SUM-K1103 - SummitRacing.com

Elgin, Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit, Chev SB-Competition Products

The first one sounds like this:

The second one sounds like this:

I prefer the second as long as you have headers, both are relatively mild and will have good low end power provided you tune them correctly, they'll both need about about 18 degrees initial timing, 36 total, and the carb retuned.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2013, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon H. View Post
Good point to bring up, this is strictly a toy, nothing show or competition, we have a local mud hole and drag strip, and I would rather build a drag s10 or nova, but all my buddies are into trucks right now, so go fast toy comes later in life.

It will be for toying in the local mud hole, and also has to get me through the woods, the kind with no people for tens of miles and no cell service. That's why I'm thinking that 1002 might be better choice? I can run that with the press in studs and stock springs right?
On a budget pressed studs and a mild cam like the 1002 are OK. Don't over rev it, it won't make any power over revving it anyway.

Need new springs though. Pay attention to the valve spring installed height.

Cam break in is the most important thing to stay on top of.

Have fun and good luck.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2013, 01:17 AM
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For a toy truck keep it simple until you can afford a big block. Edelbrock performer cam with lifters, headers and dual exhaust will suit you. wht tranny are you running? Either way, with 4:56 gears youll be ready to rock. id find a good quadrajet too for a good snappy throttle response
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