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cam selection
im trying to pick a good streetable cam for a 305 chevy.i have a performer intake ,600 cfm edelbrock,0.40 over bore. i want to use stock torque converter.this is a big late 70's 4 door impala i just want a good sounding daily driver not a dragster. if you could help it would be greatly appreciated.Thanks Bert.
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leadsled
i am keeping whatever rearend is in it .its a highway gear top end. ive got a th350 in it now only cause i couldnt find a crossmember to fit the 700r4 ive got sitting in the middle of my shop (in the way).just mainly a cam for sound this things way to heavy although the small block 400 i pulled out would walk down mustangs!
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if you want a good sound and decent performance on a 305 I'd recomend getting a "custom cam". just get the 256 mentioned on a 106 LSA with 4 degrees advance. It'll save you a decent DCR even with a stock SCR and will give you that sound you want. It won't be a high RPM screamer, and the milage will be down a little compared to a regular 256, but it'll get you a nice idle sound and the best torque you can hope for with an otherwise stock 305.
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Do you have a roundabout guess of your static compression ratio? A t350 is gonna need some gear to get you out of peoples way. A healthy running 305 with a summit k1102(204-214 @.050 .420 .442 on a 114 lsa) would sound decent(not lopey but good). And may good torque down low where this beast will need it. I don't think you'll be gunning down any stangs though(ok MAYBE 4 banger stangs). Don't forget about matching valve springs.
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Camshafts that give you "that sound" at idle are not compatable with a stock torque converter or a stock rear gear ratio.
Use a mild near stock cam in your heavy, stock geared daily driver. EG:Comp 240 HE or summit #1101 cam if you get carried away with the cam in a small ci stock motor in a heavy car you end up with a unresponsive dog that eats fuel. All you'll achieve is making yourself poor. |
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I agree completely with F-bird, if you overcam that engine(wouldn't take much) you will be left with a good sounding car that you hate to drive. If you want to cam that engine up, so to speak, you really need a better converter and more gear. I'd recommend more gear as it is with a stock cam.
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melling
i was told to try a melling mtc-1 any 1 got any thoughts on that 278/288 duration with 420/443 lift. susposed to be a factory performance grind.
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The Melling MTC-1 cam
and the summit #1102 are the same cam grind. Same also as the edelbrock performer cam This is a good common mild performance cam grind sold by various brands. This is as big as I'd go on your 305 in your car. Really need a bit more than stock compression ratio (9.5ish) and likes improved exhaust. 1.6in 1.5 exhaust rockers are best. Likes more than stock gearing and converter stall also, for best results. Very simular to the factory GM 305HO cam. |
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cam
the summit cam lift is close but the duration is way different.the more i understand the more confusing it becomes.
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You're right the summit cam has less duration and similar lift, i would take the summit cam over the melling cam if i were you. Are you totally opposed to more gear/stall?
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The advertized duration apears to be different. Becasue it is an advertized duration. The advertized duration can vary alot depending on at what lifter rise reference spec it is take from. SAE, .004" .0042" .006" .008" or no specified spec at all. There is not accepted standard for Advertized duration.
You cannot compare one to the other unless the lift spec is known and is the same. The .050" specs are exactly the same. The .050" duration spec is a recognized standard and agood way to compare one cam to anothers expected rpm range based on the relative duration. Advertized duration is not seat to seat valve open close duration or intended to be. Advertized durations are mainly for marketing purposes to get you to buy one cam brand over another. This is a common popular cam grind that is sold by many many brands. Crane is the usual actual manufacturer but not the only. Crane sells their version under the Blue-Racer brand and mass produces such generic cams for other companies and "white box" cam companies. Elgin, GMPP, Edelbrock performer, Federal Mogul, TRW, Melling, Clevite, Camcraft Daytona, Summit brand PAW, Amotion etc etc it is all the same camshaft. And it works very well. 204-214 @.050" .420"-.442" 112° LSA But you will see it offered by these brands and many more with various advertized durations. crane blue racer #WG1103K Notice on the Cam card Crane does not commit to a lifter rise spec for the advertised duration. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-23-2009 at 06:53 PM. |
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Here is a screenshot from the Blue Racer "Cam Select" program showing the WG1103 cam specs. Check out the Advertised duration and the "SAE Duration"
{Green Box} {Blue Box} So which one is the real duration? How do you compare this to a Comp Cam usually speced at .006" lifter rise, or most Crane hyd Cams at .004" or .0042" Only your hairdresser knows for sure. |
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I've got a the 204/214 .420/.443 on a 112 in a 67 chevelle 283 TH 350 3.03 rear gear, stock exhaust manifolds, 9:1 CR. The car is a bit sluggish below 2,000 rpm but after that it's actually pretty good but in an auto car, you are never really ever over 3,000- 4,000 tops and then it shifts (unless you are the manual shift kind of guy, which we all are at times, right?) But anywho, I would go with something like a Elgin 202/207 .404/.414 on a 114. To get that boat down the road.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=E860S F-birds pick is solid too and the 420/443 might work as well- if you go this route, get the 112 LC not the 114. But as another person stated, there isn't a good cam for poor gear. |
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