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prostcelica 08-04-2012 05:10 PM

cam selection
 
I finally decided on a set of heads and ordered them today. I went with a set of E-Streets that I am going to port(after an exstensive amount of research) now it is time for cam selection. I would appreciate anyone who wants to chime in. I know I want to put a roller in it just not sure between solid/hydraulic. It will be a street car that I occasionally take to the track. Please see my combo below and pass on your recomends.

sbc 355 stock internals 6000rpm max Maybe 6500 if im feeling lucky:D
Flat tops 4 valve reliefs
10.3:1 compression
Edledbrock E-Street heads (ported)
RPM Air gap intake
Holley 670 street avenger
4 speed manual
ford 9" 355 gears (probably go to a taller gear)
Car weighs 2500#'s

I am a little worried about VTP clearance. I have a Magnum 270 cam I will use to mock up and check the clearance so I have an idea where Im at before I spend the $$$ on a roller

vinniekq2 08-04-2012 05:38 PM

Im sure you will be very happy with the combination.Getting it done is the hardest part.Then drive the wheels off it,enjoy.

prostcelica 08-04-2012 05:41 PM

Thats the plan. Thanks Vinnie. Any thoughts on a cam??

vinniekq2 08-04-2012 05:57 PM

Im a bad choice for cam selections. I like cams that rev to 7k and I prefer solid.
201027 Z-27 2800-6800 .507 .018 282 247 108
SOLID .507 .018 282 247,
this is the type of cam I like.
This is not a a recommend,just what I would consider,or more?

vinniekq2 08-04-2012 06:05 PM

If you can afford/justify a roller cam? thats even better.I would contact a grinder and get a small,street friendly solid roller.If the car is driven daily,then go for a .560 ish lift and get them to figure best duration and lobe angles for your application. Personally I prefer lower intake centerlines and a bit more duration.Makes for a chopy idle.also makes the cam come in earlier. With more separation and higher intake centre line numbers you get a smoother idle and higher rpm potential or less overlap with similar duration.Dont talk to the guy answering the phone,get a true tech to talk to. You dont want a generic shelf cam

prostcelica 08-04-2012 06:10 PM

LOL!!! Thanks Vinnie. Deffinatly gona be a roller. Leaning towards a solid as this is a car that gets driven once a week for 6 months a year.

vinniekq2 08-04-2012 06:16 PM

most solid roller cams are more aggressive than .560 ish lift,mines over 600. You dont need that.Your car will rip the tires to shreds with a small roller.You will never ever use a flat tappet hydraulic again unless gramma takes up racing..

prostcelica 08-04-2012 06:21 PM

Yeahfthats for sure. Do you think i should be worried about VTP clearance. Im going to check it regardless but dont want to buy a 300$ cam and use it as a paper weight.This is the one I am leaning toward but the valve lift and exhaust duration is scaring me a little

12-770-8 - Xtreme Energy

vinniekq2 08-04-2012 06:27 PM

vtp
 
always check clearance,always always,,,so many variables,,,Ive used TRW pistons and had lots of room. no guarantees though. Making room is not that big of deal.Is the engine apart or out of the car?
If the valve is close,also check with cam 4 degrees ahead and retarded.In the future you might want to move the cam for testing next cam choice

prostcelica 08-04-2012 06:42 PM

Motor is not in the car. It fully assembled short block(minus a cam) on an engine stand. If there is not enough room what is the fix outside of relieving the eybrows a bit with a die grinder.

Richiehd 08-04-2012 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prostcelica (Post 1580128)
Motor is not in the car. It fully assembled short block(minus a cam) on an engine stand. If there is not enough room what is the fix outside of relieving the eybrows a bit with a die grinder.

Ahh, I wouldnt try that. Thicker head gasket or smaller cam. I wouldnt worry too much with a street cam in the .500 lift range. Those flat tops shouldnt be an issue

vinniekq2 08-04-2012 08:24 PM

retard the cam maybe

prostcelica 08-04-2012 09:42 PM

Hey F bird. Edelbrock is now putting 1.46 in the E street heads so a spring change and you good to go. If you read the post its not a race car!! But thanks for your input.

prostcelica 08-05-2012 01:02 AM

200cc intake runner and slicks for a street car.....that some good advise:rolleyes:

cdminter59 08-05-2012 06:48 AM

cam selection
 
F-BIRD'88 just trying to save you some money in the long run. Once you take it to the track a couple of times you will want more power. With a good heads and the compression you have, intake and 750 cfm, all that would be needed for more power would be a cam change. Besides with your short block with the upgrades and the cam you are looking at you can still drive it on the street. Ain't you ever heard the expression "HOT Street". I have a 454 I've had since 1997. At first I ran a set of oval port factory heads heavily ported. I decided to freshen it up about 5 years later. Eagle 4.00 forged crank, new Eagle I-beam rods, new rings and bearings. I already had a Crower solid roller .641/.636 and 256*/266*. I wanted a set of aluminum heads. I found a deal on the internet on a set of Edelbrock Performer RPM rectangular heads #60559 for $1395.00 (New assembled.). Now when I look back I wish I had bought a set of Brodix, Dart, or AFR's. It's not the intake runner size, it is the exhaust runner size that is small on Edelbrock heads. BTW, my last Christmas present from me to me was a 489 Eagle forged rotating assembly... Runs on pump gas too.


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