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Old 08-04-2012, 04:10 PM
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cam selection

I finally decided on a set of heads and ordered them today. I went with a set of E-Streets that I am going to port(after an exstensive amount of research) now it is time for cam selection. I would appreciate anyone who wants to chime in. I know I want to put a roller in it just not sure between solid/hydraulic. It will be a street car that I occasionally take to the track. Please see my combo below and pass on your recomends.

sbc 355 stock internals 6000rpm max Maybe 6500 if im feeling lucky
Flat tops 4 valve reliefs
10.3:1 compression
Edledbrock E-Street heads (ported)
RPM Air gap intake
Holley 670 street avenger
4 speed manual
ford 9" 355 gears (probably go to a taller gear)
Car weighs 2500#'s

I am a little worried about VTP clearance. I have a Magnum 270 cam I will use to mock up and check the clearance so I have an idea where Im at before I spend the $$$ on a roller
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:38 PM
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Im sure you will be very happy with the combination.Getting it done is the hardest part.Then drive the wheels off it,enjoy.
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:41 PM
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Thats the plan. Thanks Vinnie. Any thoughts on a cam??
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:57 PM
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Im a bad choice for cam selections. I like cams that rev to 7k and I prefer solid.
201027 Z-27 2800-6800 .507 .018 282 247 108
SOLID .507 .018 282 247,
this is the type of cam I like.
This is not a a recommend,just what I would consider,or more?
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:05 PM
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If you can afford/justify a roller cam? thats even better.I would contact a grinder and get a small,street friendly solid roller.If the car is driven daily,then go for a .560 ish lift and get them to figure best duration and lobe angles for your application. Personally I prefer lower intake centerlines and a bit more duration.Makes for a chopy idle.also makes the cam come in earlier. With more separation and higher intake centre line numbers you get a smoother idle and higher rpm potential or less overlap with similar duration.Dont talk to the guy answering the phone,get a true tech to talk to. You dont want a generic shelf cam
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:10 PM
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LOL!!! Thanks Vinnie. Deffinatly gona be a roller. Leaning towards a solid as this is a car that gets driven once a week for 6 months a year.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:16 PM
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most solid roller cams are more aggressive than .560 ish lift,mines over 600. You dont need that.Your car will rip the tires to shreds with a small roller.You will never ever use a flat tappet hydraulic again unless gramma takes up racing..
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:21 PM
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Yeahfthats for sure. Do you think i should be worried about VTP clearance. Im going to check it regardless but dont want to buy a 300$ cam and use it as a paper weight.This is the one I am leaning toward but the valve lift and exhaust duration is scaring me a little

12-770-8 - Xtreme Energy
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:27 PM
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vtp

always check clearance,always always,,,so many variables,,,Ive used TRW pistons and had lots of room. no guarantees though. Making room is not that big of deal.Is the engine apart or out of the car?
If the valve is close,also check with cam 4 degrees ahead and retarded.In the future you might want to move the cam for testing next cam choice
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:42 PM
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Motor is not in the car. It fully assembled short block(minus a cam) on an engine stand. If there is not enough room what is the fix outside of relieving the eybrows a bit with a die grinder.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcelica View Post
Motor is not in the car. It fully assembled short block(minus a cam) on an engine stand. If there is not enough room what is the fix outside of relieving the eybrows a bit with a die grinder.
Ahh, I wouldnt try that. Thicker head gasket or smaller cam. I wouldnt worry too much with a street cam in the .500 lift range. Those flat tops shouldnt be an issue
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:24 PM
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retard the cam maybe
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:40 PM
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Why would you buy a head with a very limited valvetrain and small spring seats when you plan on running a roller cam.
This is a #2600 race car. Put a real cam in it.
Buy real cylinder heads.
A Bordix IK200 will out perform the e streets ins tock for even after porting.
You are not saving money.
You will end up doing things twice.
If you are going racing get a solid lifter or solid roller cam.
Whenever you get over 250@.050 the VTP clearance starts getting close.
The only way know is the check it on your motor.
You are going about this like a sissy.
Get a real carb for that motor 750+++cfm.
Gets some slicks.
With all the other things that will need clearance checking etc Its not that big a deal
to deepen the Valve reliefs a bit more.

The springs and spring seats on the e street head are only sufficient for a sissy cam.
the heads will require machining ( for larger springs ) to allow a decent peformance cam.
This is a entry level head intended for near stock 350hp motors.
You get what you pay for.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 08-04-2012 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:42 PM
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Hey F bird. Edelbrock is now putting 1.46 in the E street heads so a spring change and you good to go. If you read the post its not a race car!! But thanks for your input.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:02 AM
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200cc intake runner and slicks for a street car.....that some good advise
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