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What do you guys think about the nostaliga cam from comp cams I listed?
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Thise old factory grinds belong in a museum with 8 track tape players and stromberg carbs. I hope I don't sound snotty or anything but cam science has changed a lot in the last 10 years, embrace it.
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ap72 I don't agree. Although it would be better to fully port the heads along with the bigger valves, they'll still flow better even at lowlift with pocket porting and bigger valves. I would agree that 2.05's may be overkill for the application they won't hurt anything and at least here in the states 2.05's don't cost any more than 2.02's. If I stayed with 1.94's I'd be very careful who I let touch the seats.
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I have the extreme energy hydraulic cam. 274 in my 69 Nova SS 355 very close to your set up and it euns very well I'd go with 274 if your looking to drive often.
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I have read that adding larger valves to Vortecs is bad because it decreases intake charge velocity. Also the casting is pretty thin and close to the water jacket and cutting for larger valves increases chances of a crack developing — which is also a factor that needs consideration when porting Vortecs. The intake flow numbers for Vortecs are pretty awesome. They are lackluster in exhaust flow, so if you port, do the exhaust side.
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Xe274H-10 needs 4.10's for that car.
Xe274 or 12-672-4 cs nostalgia 30-30h+ or Isky 278 mega cam All these cams will need 4.10's. a 3500 stall is best with all a these. 3.55:1 use a smaller cam . 12-672-4 This cam will be particilarly lame with just 3.55's. Needs a 3500++4000 stall and 4.30-4.56 You must fully port a vortec heads to see the benefit of a large than stock valve. Larger valves and full porting will work well. |
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I have a np440 gearbox laying around, do you guys that would be better then the th350?
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Cam for a Vortec 355
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Changing gears is not totally necessary but in most cases it enables the driver to make the best use of the new found power at the higher RPM ranges. |
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AP72,you are correct"They aren't related directly"
most cars and trucks have multi gear transmissions,to say a car with a flat tappet hydraulic cam "needs" 4.30 or 4.56 gears? Im trying not to correct or call out anyone,but,,,,,,,?lets think about gear choices and applications.I use 3.5 gears and my cam is 256/264@50 with valve lift over 600,is my gear choice wrong? |
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On the street you will have sluggish initial acceleration with a big cam and no gear. ( assuming typical car wight and HP to weight ratio). You will also be "on the converter" for a long time when you rug it. Inefficient, creates converter heat. Long wait for the power band to hit. Bad choice when a high stall converter is used (unless the power to weight ratio is very high) Unless your car is very light weight or your don't care about acceleration. Of course if you have no tires traction It won't matter much. You average camaro malibu muscle car #3200-3600# with a 350 and a 256° cam and 28" tall tires wiill want a 4.30 to 4.56 gear It wil alos want 10:1 to 10.5:1 cr (for pump gas)( if you want strong acceleration.) The motor will want to cruise at 60MPH at around 3200-3400rpm in Drive (1:1) At the track you would be way under geared with 3.50:1 gears. Your ET will be 4 to 8 th's slower than what It could be with the right gears. You can run what ever gear you want in your car. Its your car. But don't expect stong acceleration performance with a big cammed 350 and hiway gears in a typical weight car or even worse in a heavy truck) and a stock low stall converter. All the torque power will be at higher rpm ...very high vehicle speed. Initial Acceleration will be lame untill the rpm gets up to where the cam makes power. 3000+++ 3500++rpm for a racey 256° cam. Unless you got 5 or 6 transmission speeds (with a low 1st and 2nd ratio) to work with. Not the typical 3 forward gears and a 2.5:1 first gear as in most cars. If you want to optimize it to break the land speed record thats a different thing. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 10-17-2012 at 01:44 PM. |
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