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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldduster360 View Post
Hi Jester,

Here is a pic where most of the nasty dent was already pulled, if I can find a good before shot I will post that too. In this pic you can see the little bit left to pull out. Note how the crown line is pushed in too, you can see allot of little hammer marks in an arc above the crown line where dents are pulled out. By pulling below the crown line where the nasty crease was I was able to strike the crease line above the crown with a pick hammer. This released the stress in the metal and popped out the top of the dent too and brought the crown line out to about where it was before the impact. To add insult to injury this door had been smacked once before too, so it was good and work hardened. A PDR guy would have broke his tool trying to straighten this one if he could even get to it because of guard beam inside door. Oh yeah, thanx for not flaming me, my wife is complaing how hot our living room is getting.

I don't agree that " Your cheep " Or how you should fix something in your own home ! That's your business! You posted something and probably thought twice before you posted? But Im here to help people that are
not knowledgeable about the right and wrong ways of building performance cars or classics!!!! If you titled your post "Don't do as I do" or "an example of dong body work wrong" Or "This wont last long" I would of passed on a reply LOL!!!

My door on the 79 is done! my rear quarter is hit exactly like yours!!!! right on the fender lip and ridge just a little worse LOL Yours looks already mudded and I think I see a small hole right on the edge ?? Im not sure? I went to a wrecking yard and found a Camaro with a wrecked quarter and asked if I could cut a patch out of it! they said yes! I took my own torches water and an extinguisher and cut out a large section ! ( They charged me 10 bucks) Took it home And made a nice neat patch of that area (But much smaller then what I cut off the wrecked Quarter) and will cut my quarter and weld it in. Its easier and cheaper then trying to straighten that area to me! But I could have half A*$ed it with a hammer and mud!


Jester

There's a big gap in one sentence on the post that isn't there when I proof read or go to edit what gives??

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Last edited by painted jester; 12-09-2012 at 03:43 PM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 04:43 PM
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If that car is kept in a garage, the mudded up repair would last forever... how do I know? The old school body man who painted my Nova 20 years ago fixed a big dent in the door the exact same way. The filler never fell out or cracked and the backside never rusted. Not saying its the "right" way, just sayin it can work. The guy has a right to fix his car however he wants...but I think he HAD to know his method would be frowned upon here!! I think he's pushing your buttons guys!!!

What he's doing is a little different than stuffing newspaper in a rusted out dog leg and mudding over!!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:01 PM
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Your right Andy, he has the right to fix the car any way he wants...I couldn't care less if he used a can opener and the filled the dent with drywall mud, but, there are a lot of people that come on this site to learn howto do things and as you said...that your not saying it's the right way...it's not the right way and if a newbie comes on and thinks to himself "I can do that" how does that help the hobby, as not all cars are in a garage.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:38 PM
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I think he just made the post to get people fired up. He probably intended to weld the holes shut the entire time. He's "trolling"
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:10 PM
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There's been enough responses to his post that I think a Newb might somehow get the idea this isn't the right way in restoration or reputable production shops. I'm with Andy that he's just being ornery but it is acceptable in some circles and I've just finished grinding 1/2" of filler out of the quarter of a "pristine" 1990 TransAm with new BC/CC paint a buddy just bought from a collector car dealer. When I started color sanding the car, then run off was red. You couldn't notice the filler work but my buddy dropped it off and wanted me to buff it and give it a killer shine, when he saw the red sanding residue, he wasn't happy. Now I'm finishing up replacing bad metal and about ready to hit it with epoxy and then surfacer.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:16 PM
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I'm sure Andy's right and thank God we have enough responses for the new people to the hobby.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
I don't agree that " Your cheep " Or how you should fix something in your own home ! That's your business! You posted something and probably thought twice before you posted? But Im here to help people that are
not knowledgeable about the right and wrong ways of building performance cars or classics!!!! If you titled your post "Don't do as I do" or "an example of dong body work wrong" Or "This wont last long" I would of passed on a reply LOL!!!

My door on the 79 is done! my rear quarter is hit exactly like yours!!!! right on the fender lip and ridge just a little worse LOL Yours looks already mudded and I think I see a small hole right on the edge ?? Im not sure? I went to a wrecking yard and found a Camaro with a wrecked quarter and asked if I could cut a patch out of it! they said yes! I took my own torches water and an extinguisher and cut out a large section ! ( They charged me 10 bucks) Took it home And made a nice neat patch of that area (But much smaller then what I cut off the wrecked Quarter) and will cut my quarter and weld it in. Its easier and cheaper then trying to straighten that area to me! But I could have half A*$ed it with a hammer and mud!
Cutting and splicing is a lot of fun when doing metal work but ask yourself a few questions ....since you have to take the interior out to weld a patch in why not just hammer and dolly back into shape ???? un;ess it is rusted ,and thats an ez patch to make ,fun too but if its rotted thats a good way to do it ,cutting out one from a donor car (my second choiceif I couldnt make it)If its not rotted out, then ask yourself this ...after all the running around and hauling out the tourches ,going to the yard ,hauling them again then putting it all back and welding a new (old metal patch ) ....When I'm done will it have just as much bondo as a hammer & dolly job or more and how long will that old patch last????
Myself ,I'd never even concider replacing that 1/4 or patching it unless it was rotted hammer and dolly would be so much better and faster ....NOW if I was lazy and didnt want to remove the interior to gai access for the proper metal finishing I'd just get the old slide hammer out and have at it...Done and .primed in less than 2 hrs...



Jester

There's a big gap in one sentence on the post that isn't there when I proof read or go to edit what gives??
Holly crap Batman,do yourself a big ,BIG favor and get yourself an 18 volt sawzall for 100.00 as you get older you learn how to make life a little easier...Plus no warpage or fire...

Last edited by deadbodyman; 12-09-2012 at 06:49 PM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:54 PM
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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by novafreek6872 View Post
If that car is kept in a garage, the mudded up repair would last forever... how do I know? The old school body man who painted my Nova 20 years ago fixed a big dent in the door the exact same way. The filler never fell out or cracked and the backside never rusted. Not saying its the "right" way, just sayin it can work. The guy has a right to fix his car however he wants...but I think he HAD to know his method would be frowned upon here!! I think he's pushing your buttons guys!!!

What he's doing is a little different than stuffing newspaper in a rusted out dog leg and mudding over!!
I agree with 'if it stays indoors it will last' especially a climate controlled vacuum sealed box ! I drive mine. and sometimes in bad weather and dirt roads.

Jester
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 07:11 PM
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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

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Holly crap Batman,do yourself a big ,BIG favor and get yourself an 18 volt sawzall for 100.00 as you get older you learn how to make life a little easier...Plus no warpage or fire...
I have a battery saws all LOL just not with me, I was in a 4H arena repairing and welding the the steel fence and gates, away from my area and had the 55 gal.of water , extinguisher and puppy torches in my horse trailer with the horses my wife called around about parts while we were at the arena, and found that scrap yard. Instead of making 2 trips I got it then! That's why I mentioned cutting a piece bigger then the patch ( heat & warpage ) When in a pinch get it the best you can.

Jester
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2012, 03:42 PM
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right begind the dent

you can drill a hole behind the dent careful not to go tru the outher panel just the beam and use that to get to the areas you need to push out but it will allso lossen the bond that was used between the beam and the panel so it you dont want a rattle you should use a good body caulk use a auto caluk not one for home
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2012, 06:17 PM
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Hay hook time .

In the factory a lot of the metal finshers had their own special tools they made. Most had some J or L hooks, usually 12 to 18 inches long, made from trunk lid or hood torsion springs. The ends were sometimes pointed or with a ball end. they were used in areas where you couldn't get a hammer, On cowl tops they would punch a hole in the upper firewall, insert the end of the hook then using leverage work the ding up , sometimes by twisting the T handle . On minor dings on doors behind the guard rail. The holes in exposed areas were filled with a pinch of body sealer and thumbed kind of smooth.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2012, 09:06 AM
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If you ever watched a paintless dent repair guy they will work miracles at getting around intrusion beams. And of course there is always the possibility to cut it out and weld it back in. Yeah I know it won't have the same structural integrity but the year before there wasn't even one there and we drove those cars without fear.

Brian

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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2012, 08:18 PM
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thing that sucks about the hole era is a lot of guys just used the screw slide hammers and made teepees out of the hole and stretching the metal in those areas and thinning it. Instead of rolling the metal out they just yanked hard and if you don't roll it out right you get teepees. If you know what you're doing the teepee effect won't be an issue.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 09:48 PM
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Well you big butcher lets see some photos of the finished repair lol!!!!!!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
thing that sucks about the hole era is a lot of guys just used the screw slide hammers and made teepees out of the hole and stretching the metal in those areas and thinning it. Instead of rolling the metal out they just yanked hard and if you don't roll it out right you get teepees. If you know what you're doing the teepee effect won't be an issue.
I was a master slide hammer dent puller. or should that be
One of the worse things we did was drill the holes, the teepee or as we called them volcanos were a sure thing with a drilled hole. But if it is punched with an awl the volcano is going IN so when you pull it out you end up with something much flatter.

I can't believe that I just did a "Basics" on a slide hammer dent puller.

Brian
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