Campbell Hausfeld Iron Force Air Compressor
I'm new to this site which I think is great and I posted this thread in body exterior because I wasn't sure where to put so I put it here also.
I have been looking for a compressor for some time and wasn't able to lay out the $1,000.00-1,500.00 for a belt driven, 2 stage unit. I am a home hobbyist and paint about two cars a year. The other day I was in Lowes and they had a Campbell Hausfeld 80 gallon, 2 stage commercial unit on the floor. It was the floor model and was missing the gages and the air filter element and housing and a few other things even the instructions. They were selling it for $500.00. I thought because it was a floor unit, I don't know. I went to the cashier and said I wanted it figuring it was still a good deal for a 2 stage unit. I paid for it and went to get my truck and when I pulled up they put a brand new one still in the box in the back of my truck. I could't believe it. It was a $1,100.00 unit. I asked if I was supposed to get a new one and they said yes. I got it home and 4 of my buddies helped lift it off of the truck and into the garage. After unboxing it and taking the skid off I then had a chance to look over everything. It was indeed brand new with nothing missing even had the instructions. I filled it with oil and ran it for an hour the recommended break in period. It ran great. So for $500.00 bucks I think I got a deal and will be able to paint my cars and run a DA with ease.
I didn't have time to research it because they only had 2 left. but I figured for the price for an 80 gallon, 2 stage, commercial compressor I should't have any problems running a DA or painting a complete car. What do you guys think? I know it's not an eaton or IR but for the price I thing I got a steal.
Finally, I have it sitting on my concrete floor on 1" plywood. Is it really necessary to have the vibration/isolation pads? Do they make that much of a difference? If so I can't find anyone locally who sells them where can I get them.
I have listed the link below check it out.
Thats a deal!
Actually that will work just fine for you..I would get the vibration pads and bolt the compressor down to the garage floor so it will not tip over..
Also install a service disconnect in the circuit right by the comprssor so you can easily shut it off if you are not using it or you need to do any service to it..
Pipe the drain to a valve so you can easily drain the tank on a regular basis..
Run overhead lines to your paint area and put a air/water separator and regulator on the wall in a convenient spot..also might be good to have an air outlet and regulator out in the front by the garage door to run a air impact for changing tires or running air wrenches..
Air lines and outlets are kinda like electrical in that you cannot have too many outlets in convenient spots around your shop.. :drool:
Thanks for the reply. Any idea on where to get the pads? HD, HF, Lowes doesn't carry that stuff? Also, it is my understanding that it should be plumed so that the condensation drains back into the compressor. Does anyone have any thoughts on that?
Nice job, it should work just fine for what you are doing. I don't know what to do about the vibration pads either. Anyone have any suggestions. Have fun
Grainger carries the Isolation Pads. They sell Campbell Hausfeld Compressors under their "Speedaire" Logo. I am certain there is a good explanation as to why to drain back into the Compressor, but I used 3/4" galvanized pipe unning at about waist level with drops every 5' or so. Then I put my air outlets above that downpipe and downstream.
As always, your mileage may vary- :P
I think you got a great deal on your compressor. As far as your isolation pads, I would go to an industrial rubber supply shop which specializes in conveyer belts and rubber mats and get a few inch thick pre-cut stripes of rubber. One inch will probably do. I don't know how heavy your compressor is. Then fasten them down to your plywood. The best pads ever made :-). I hope this will work out for you.
'67 Camaro RS
I cut up a mud and snow tire that had a cut in the side wall. Put in concreat anchors and drilled holes in pieces of tire tread x 2 thick. This may not be the correct way but it's the poor boy way. It's worked for two years now.
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