Vinnie, I bet you check your valves hot and running too:thumbup: , I was not aiming that post at people that Know it is natural and ingrained in us, we do not even think about it, its like Breathing LOL , We find out the exact closing point of our valves and adjust accordingly!
I aimed it Just to those that do not Know!!
The 30- 30 , LT1, etc, cams were really trick for the racers that knew the procedure and would tell no one, and would get the edge over the racers that did not know because their lifter lash was set right and hot and running!
Through the years many people came and told me that when they adjust their hydraulic or solid lifters cold at #1TDC when both # 1 valves are closed (like the books say) they are set fine, but then noisy when running or complain about lost power, they recheck them at #1TDC and they are still fine 3/4 turn or the right solid lash !! So I check it out Hot and running and find when they adjusted both #1 valves at #1 TDC like in the books both #1 valves were actually open and when closed were way after #1 TDC and the lashes were loose, so I would set them hot and running readjust and had to loosen or tighten the lifter lash a lot depending on the cam grind!!!
Can you just imagine how many young people or unknowing come on here and adjust their valves by factory stock instructions given to them on these threads and how much power they are losing, because their cams closing point of the valves at #1s TDC are different and still are actually open.
Basic adjustment for Chevy small block solid and hydraulic cams in the books look like this:
With #1 piston at TDC, both number one valves are shut.
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
Adjust the #1 intake valve
Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
Adjust the #5 intake valve
Adjust the #7 intake valve
Adjust the #2 intake valve
Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire.
Adjust the #3 intake valve
Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
Adjust the #4 intake valve
Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
Adjust the #6 intake valve
Adjust the #8 intake valve
High output solid or hydraulic cams like the 30-30 or others adjustments: At top dead center both #1 intake and #1 exhaust valves are open! NOT closed !!
So for these type cams:
With #1 piston at TDC You adjust #8 Ex, and #2 Int - Not #1 ex. or #1 int. then turn crank 90 degrees at a time and set these!
90 deg. - 4E, 1I
180 deg. - 3E, 8I
270 deg. - 6E, 4I
0 - 5E, 3I
90 deg. - 7E, 6I
180 deg. - 2E, 5I
270 deg. - 1E, 7I
and on some cams the degree to set valves for each cylinder at their TDC may not be 90* it may very!
That's what I was trying to warn unknowing people about! Not the procedure just that the adjustment valve order in the procedure changes with different cams in the same engine If you adjust some cams like most books tell people to do, thinking when #1 piston is at #1 top dead center both #1 valves can be adjusted they will be way off . When using one cam at #1 TDC both #1 valves are closed and are adjusted, and then swap cams and at #1 TDC #8ex. and #2 int. will be the ones closed and you adjust Them.
I hope I wrote that so its not confusing ?? And in order to check to make sure your settings are right ALWAYS do a hot and running valve adjustment! it seems like most enthusiasts do not set hot and running because its messy LOL and rely on a cold setting even though it is a very important step in proper tuning! And will set your valves precisely where they should be!
Jester, (Chris)