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can I install a manual transmission in 66 chevelle?

4K views 31 replies 13 participants last post by  big gear head 
#1 ·
I have attached a picture of the back of the motor; the crank, and I have never done an initial install of a manual transmission, but want to put a T5 in this chevelle, someone told me if the crank looks like this, I can only install an automatic, does anyone know if this is true?
 

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#6 ·
What year is the Chevelle? You will need a pedal assembly out of a like year Chevelle or other GM of the same type body. You will also need a bell housing, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing, throw out bearing arm, bell crank and linkage arms. You might have to change the transmission mount and possibly the drive shaft. IMHO, it's easier to run a floor shift than it is to mess with a column shift. Over the years I've changed two over, a 57 Bel-Air in 72 and a 66 Mustang in 80.
 
#7 ·
Did more of these than I care to count back in the days, lol.

Since no bushing has been installed in the crank, there'll be a little corrosion to clean out of input for the pilot bushing, usually cleans and polishes up pretty easy with a little emery cloth and a small polish wheel on a drill. Once cleaned up, the bushing taps in relatively easy, not any different than bearing races at your front axle hubs. They make an aluminum tool for installing them, but a piece of round brass stock works well, I've even used a deep socket of same size flipped over to drive them in. Just go slow and use a little light oil on it so you do not deform it.

I believe the T-5 uses a hydraulic throw out bearing system that mounts on the front of the tranny and will require a master cylinder for it. This is a pretty popular mod and '66 Chevelle's are pretty popular models, so aftermarket should be able to supply everything needed for this, such as CLP, SPEEDWAY and others..
 
#9 ·
I believe the T-5 uses a hydraulic throw out bearing system that mounts on the front of the tranny and will require a master cylinder for it.
Only the ones used in the late-90s F-body cars with the 3800 motor. Other T5s used conventional throwout bearings with either mechanical or external slave cylinder linkage. In any case, that's irrelevant here. Use a 1960s Chevy bellhousing and the GM-case T5 bolts up and used the clutch linkage for a Chevelle.

The bigger problem is the low torque capability of the T5. Don't be surprised if the trans comes apart under hard use.
 
#8 ·
Make sure the bushing goes in correctly, the bell-shaped end mates up with the input shaft. I put a little lead (lathe and file, belt sander will work) on the end that goes into the crank, so it starts in easier. Today, most clutch sets come with the bushing and a small packet of lube. And a clutch line up tool.

The toughest part is locating and welding the z-bar bracket to the frame, a lot easier if the engine happens to be out.
 
#10 ·
If its out of an F-car, the shifter will be cocked towards the driver a bit (iirc its 15 degrees). With an OE style clutch and street tires, I'd give it about 300/350ft-lb reliably (assuming its from a V8 car). Get it to hook hard, get into some axle hop...its toast.
 
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#16 ·
There's standard and World Class (WC) versions of T5's that came stock in before '88 and after '88 cars...

Freeze the pilot bushing in the deep freezer first to shrink it and quickly install it and it will go in really easily... maybe even with the rubber handle end of a hammer...
 
#21 ·
Be aware, with "some" 283 engines, and I believe some 348's, that were built to be used exclusively with automatics, you may need a "special" pilot bushing to fit the crank end. I don't know IF yours is one or not. Now, I have a question: what is the "ring" visible behind the flexplate? As others have said, you'll need the complete clutch pedal and linkage, flywheel and bolts, clutch assembly and bolts, throwout bearing (get the right length one of those too), throwout bearing fork, the bellhousing, and your choice of manual transmission. You may also need a different slip yoke, a longer/shorter driveshaft, depending on what transmission you use, and a shifter. Start slamming those gears!
junior stocker.
 
#25 ·
You need to consider how much time you will be in overdrive. If you honestly believe the thing can not be geared to eliminate the need all together. When someone is doing a manual swap on a car like yours it is hard to not mention a Muncie m20,21, 22. They can handle 320lbs stock and be built to almost 700.

You will not need to worry about the shifter being out of place in the car. You can legthen or shorten the rods to put it where it feels good for you. You will need to modify the linkage but the rest of the swap is almost a bolt in. If you go with a racing style firewall mounted hanging pedal with remote resivior and hydraulic slave the linkage is gone replaced by stock fork etc.

This just gives you more options later on.

If you set the brass bearing in the freezer overnight one or two taps evenly with a piece of wood will drop it right in. Make sure to buy a dial indicatior to align the bell within 5 and use adjustable pins to make things go easier.
 
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