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Old 06-22-2004, 06:54 PM
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Can I reclear a 4 year old black bc/cc paint on a lincoln

I wanted to ask the experts here whether i could put another couple of coats of clear acrylic lacquer paint over a 4 year old black basecoat clearcoat. If it is ok then what is the procedure. I assume you just wetsand it with 400 grit sandpaper and after a good wash and cleaning you can then put the clear on.

I also recently painted my driver side mirror as it had many stone chips. I wetsanded it with 400 grit and then used a duplicolor topcoat followed by a duplicolor clearcoat. It actually came out very well. But I noticed that the pits from the stonechips were not covered completely. But it still came out very well. Maybe better than the factory paint. For the other side mirror what should be the procedure. Can I just use a primer that will cover up the stone chips.

Thanks

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Old 06-22-2004, 08:17 PM
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Of course you can! BUT Why?

I assume when you say BC/CC your talking about urethane or polyurethane clear? If you are than your going back-wards putting lacquer clear over it.

If my assumptions are right than you are putting on a product that will need to be stripped shortly down the road offer less chemical and durability resistance than you have now.
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Old 06-22-2004, 10:21 PM
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If it were on a Chevy Id say yes but definitely not on the Lincoln!
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Old 06-22-2004, 10:25 PM
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Thanks for the input Barry and it is well noted. Can you tell me what i should do to cover the small stone chips on the passenger side mirror. I did a good job but you can still see very faintly the stone chips. Should I just primer it as i dont want to put any putty or filler as this means that i will probably have to sand down the paint to the metal. I dont think that anything will stick as good as the original paint.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by BarryK
Of course you can! BUT Why?

I assume when you say BC/CC your talking about urethane or polyurethane clear? If you are than your going back-wards putting lacquer clear over it.

If my assumptions are right than you are putting on a product that will need to be stripped shortly down the road offer less chemical and durability resistance than you have now.
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Old 06-22-2004, 10:31 PM
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viper: check out this > link

It shld help ya out!
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Old 06-23-2004, 07:24 PM
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I should rephrase my question. My Lincoln LS is now 4 years old. Can I wetsand the orange peel and then put another couple of coats of clearcoat on the paint. I am talking about putting the original type of clear which I assume is urethane clear and not the lacquer clear.

My next question is if the basecoat was originally painted with orange peel then will it be possible to wetsand the clear to be able to get rid of the orange peel.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by BarryK
Of course you can! BUT Why?

I assume when you say BC/CC your talking about urethane or polyurethane clear? If you are than your going back-wards putting lacquer clear over it.

If my assumptions are right than you are putting on a product that will need to be stripped shortly down the road offer less chemical and durability resistance than you have now.
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Old 06-23-2004, 08:26 PM
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If I have this straight, its a factory paint job with the usual
orange peel??

If that is the case the peel is so minor that you don't need to take a chance of sanding out the peel before you reclear it.
Volvo going back to the 90's were one of the worst. In 1992
I bought a Blue grn 940Turbo on a Friday, Friday night took a red scotch brite pad to the whole car and Saturday shot 3 coats of High Solids clear over the factory paint. That alone killed half the orange peel and than the next weekend wet sanded with 1500 and buffed, It was slick.

If this is the scenario with your car what I would do is go to paint jobber and get a box of Grey or red scuff pads $10.
and a bottle of "Presta Scuff-stuff" Put the scuff stuff on the pad after pad has been dipped in water and start sanding, when done
rinse off let dry over night to be safe than tape and clear.
The reason for scuff stuff is it is a great cleaner also, since your car is older.

I get laughed at by friends all the time for buying a new car bring home and clearing, hey its an excuse to paint something and can be done in a day.

Still not sure, if answered your question!!??
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Old 06-23-2004, 08:33 PM
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Nothing in the world will cover the stone chips. they have to be filled or removed.

Troy
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Old 06-23-2004, 10:02 PM
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Thanks for the opinions guys. barry how long will the new clear last after it has ben painted on top of the scuffed 4 year old clearcoat. Will it peel off or will it be as durable as if it came out of the factory. I also want to know if wetsanding with 1200 grit will do as good a job as the scuff it product you were referring to. Where can i get this product and what grit is it scuffing the old clearcoat with. Is it comparable to 600 grit or something close to it.

Thanks


Quote:
Originally posted by BarryK
If I have this straight, its a factory paint job with the usual
orange peel??

If that is the case the peel is so minor that you don't need to take a chance of sanding out the peel before you reclear it.
Volvo going back to the 90's were one of the worst. In 1992
I bought a Blue grn 940Turbo on a Friday, Friday night took a red scotch brite pad to the whole car and Saturday shot 3 coats of High Solids clear over the factory paint. That alone killed half the orange peel and than the next weekend wet sanded with 1500 and buffed, It was slick.

If this is the scenario with your car what I would do is go to paint jobber and get a box of Grey or red scuff pads $10.
and a bottle of "Presta Scuff-stuff" Put the scuff stuff on the pad after pad has been dipped in water and start sanding, when done
rinse off let dry over night to be safe than tape and clear.
The reason for scuff stuff is it is a great cleaner also, since your car is older.

I get laughed at by friends all the time for buying a new car bring home and clearing, hey its an excuse to paint something and can be done in a day.

Still not sure, if answered your question!!??
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Old 06-23-2004, 10:30 PM
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Hey wld it be a good idea to spray a coat of mid-coat adhesion promoter after the scuff job before laying the CC down?

Also I think 1200G is to fine no? I think Id go 1000G max.
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Old 06-23-2004, 11:32 PM
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I've tried a few times re clearing old clear, just couldn't get it to work. I would think you would have to use 320-380 on the old clear to give it enough bight to hold the new clear. Then use a clear re coat sealer. Then sand the new clear with 1200 then 2000 and buff. Although if done properly you should not have to sand and buff at all.

I would recommend using a acrylic or urethane clear, instead of the CC system.

Troy
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Last edited by troy-curt; 06-23-2004 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:29 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by troy-curt
[B]I've tried a few times re clearing old clear, just couldn't get it to work. I would think you would have to use 320-380 on the old clear to give it enough bight to hold the new clear. Then use a clear re coat sealer. Then sand the new clear with 1200 then 2000 and buff. Although if done properly you should not have to sand and buff at all.
**************************************************
Guys,
This is no different than a bc/cc blend set-up on a panel that shops do everyday. Spot the base and re-clear the panel.
1000 or 1500 grit wet works or a gray or red pad.
Do not use a clear sealer or adhesion promoter, it will hurt more than help in this situation.
Reason I like the red pad is it is 500-800 grit depending on brand and its fast. I just did a Lexis 400 a few months ago and took all of 20 minutes to sand with red pad and scuff-stuff.

Lasting?? Depends what you use and how car is used. (like any paint job)
A Friend bought a red 92 vette in 1/95 had about 20,000 miles
we hammered 3 wet coats of High Solids Polyurethane clear over it and it still looks better than a new one.
BUT car only has about 80,000 miles on it now.

Last edited by BarryK; 06-24-2004 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 06-24-2004, 07:26 AM
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Barry, sounds like your working for a auto auction, or a car lot.
or maybe maco.

I would never put out a job like that with a warrenty.

Troy
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Old 06-24-2004, 07:33 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by troy-curt
[B]Barry, sounds like your working for a auto auction, or a car lot.
or maybe maco.

I would never put out a job like that with a warranty.

Troy
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Good God it does sound like that!!
As a shop I would never do it for customers for sure. For friends and my cars, if something blows up, like you I can fix so no big deal. Funny thing never have had a problem but my son saw the 92 Volvo a few months ago it now has 380,000 miles he said paint still looked good except for a 2 inch dia spot on corner of roof had peeled or bubbled and busted. I screw-up some how!
He won't let me live it down thats for sure.
But 12 years is not to bad.

"I would never put out a job like that with a warranty."

Troy, I just thought of something in your three body shops
how many spot two front fenders and corner of hood and clear whole front end?? 1000's? How many have came back 0?1?.
Your already warranting this system.

Last edited by BarryK; 06-24-2004 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 07-05-2004, 10:30 PM
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barry it looks like you have done a few of these jobs. Let me ask you what kind of clearcoat and manufacturer would you recommend if i was to reclear the car. I have no dings anywhere but I hate the factory orange peel. That is why i want to wetsand it and then put anotehr 3 coats of clear on it.

Thanks


[QUOTE]Originally posted by BarryK
[B]
Quote:
Originally posted by troy-curt
Barry, sounds like your working for a auto auction, or a car lot.
or maybe maco.

I would never put out a job like that with a warranty.

Troy
__________________
Good God it does sound like that!!
As a shop I would never do it for customers for sure. For friends and my cars, if something blows up, like you I can fix so no big deal. Funny thing never have had a problem but my son saw the 92 Volvo a few months ago it now has 380,000 miles he said paint still looked good except for a 2 inch dia spot on corner of roof had peeled or bubbled and busted. I screw-up some how!
He won't let me live it down thats for sure.
But 12 years is not to bad.

"I would never put out a job like that with a warranty."

Troy, I just thought of something in your three body shops
how many spot two front fenders and corner of hood and clear whole front end?? 1000's? How many have came back 0?1?.
Your already warranting this system.
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