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Old 01-30-2011, 11:16 AM
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can i remove the crankshaft?

I have almost everything pulled out of my chevy 4.3l v6 engine.
I wanted to just slap in some new rod and crank bearings without pulling out the crank shaft. All the bearings are in worse shape than I thought, and so is the crank. The heads have been pulled and delivered to the machine shop. the pistons are out. Basically the only thing left in the van is the block attached to the transmission, and the crank.

Can I remove the crank with the block still attached to the transmission?

This is a 2001 vortech 4.3l v6.

Thanks Hotrodders!

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Old 01-30-2011, 11:53 AM
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Yes, if you have the room and can get the torque converter back far enough......Personally, I think it would be overall easier to remove the engine
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:55 AM
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Yea, remove the engine. It sounds like all you got still connected is the motor mounts and bell housing. Should come out in 10 minutes or less.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:05 PM
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well...
upon farther inspection, no.. it won't come out with the bell housing still attached. Guess I answered my own question.

This engine is in a van, so it's not so easy to remove. The front clip must come off. which also means the ac must be discharged and partly disassembled.

Think I'll have someone do it for me!

Thanks for the advice hotrodders!
Brian
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:22 PM
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You could pull the tranny and then drop the crank.......still a lot of under the car pain in the rear.
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:03 PM
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yea, i'm working in a car port, and i've had two days of spring weather here in atlanta, and my luck will run out. Thought I was going to get away with a quick half *** rebuild. but everything is just in really bad shape. I'm also afraid I won't be able to get the torque right on the head bolts because of clearance issues. I had to use swivle joints and other adapters to get to the head bolts out. I'm just going to go whole hog and have the block serviced along with everything else. This is my work van,.. not much of a hot rod. And its not as fun if your repairing an engine because you have to, and not because you want to.

Thanks
Brian
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:24 PM
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why is everything in such bad shape? You are looking at a lot of work trying to do this underneath a vehicle, it is going to be hard to get all of the rods back into place to install the crankshaft, I don't know about you but I only have 2 arms. I have never heard of a crankshaft falling on someone's head but you are probably going to be the first. If you are working in a car port than you are probably also working on a dirt floor. Do you have enough space to remove the timing cover and balancer? I would just remove the front clip and pull the engine out, I think it is going to save you time in the long run.
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briansansone
well...
upon farther inspection, no.. it won't come out with the bell housing still attached. Guess I answered my own question.

This engine is in a van, so it's not so easy to remove. The front clip must come off. which also means the ac must be discharged and partly disassembled.

Think I'll have someone do it for me!

Thanks for the advice hotrodders!
Brian
My dad used to tell me the easiest way to get things done is get some one else to do it for you. If I have enough money to do that, I can save a lot of rear end pain.
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:33 PM
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It will probably be impossible to get the crankshaft out with the one piece rear main seal adapter plate on the back of the engine as it will hold the crank captive and you wount get it past the main saddle. No problem though brian. Just loosen the mains enough so the bolts are just loose and taking off one cap at a time you should be able to push the upper part of the bearing out and a new one back in.then set one in the bottom (cap) and put back on leaving the bolt just loose enough to turn by hand. Then go to the next one and do the same. That is what is referred to as an inframe overhaul by truckers. You never reall pull the crank or the motor, just the bearings.you just need to get the crank loose enough in the saddles to be able to spin em in and out.usually loosening all the main bolts is enough .
Piece of cake, except for the oil dripping in your face and all.
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:43 PM
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In my experience. If a 4.3 needs bearings, it needs a complete re-do. The rods will also be out of round. These engines are notorious for front main bearing and front rod journal wear/failure. Due to the 3/4" oil pump inlet.

M (Astro type) vans have to come out the bottom. My guy can do a R&R in a couple of hours..
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:56 PM
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if the bearings are bad the crank probably needs to be ground anyways
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:02 PM
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You can also bet on the rods being out of round.
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:51 PM
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Crank shaft

Hello I.m David I been rebuilting engines for years about your crank shaft if it
is scratch like your bearings you have to machine it to new specs.
at a machine shop and they will put the right bearings to that crank shaft.
If you dont fix the crank and put new bearings when thr crank is turning fast
and because the bearings are pertect round and the crank isn't there going to be play and vibration as turn and you can broken the crank or throw a rod
remember the crank is the most stress point of the engine.
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:10 PM
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yup, the crank is trashed.
My Machine shop is going to get everything back to specs.
It looks like the oil pump went bad many miles ago. The farther the bearings
from the oil pump, the worse the shape.

Is there a oil pump up grade I could get to avoid this in the future?
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latech
It will probably be impossible to get the crankshaft out with the one piece rear main seal adapter plate on the back of the engine as it will hold the crank captive and you wount get it past the main saddle. No problem though brian. Just loosen the mains enough so the bolts are just loose and taking off one cap at a time you should be able to push the upper part of the bearing out and a new one back in.then set one in the bottom (cap) and put back on leaving the bolt just loose enough to turn by hand. Then go to the next one and do the same. That is what is referred to as an inframe overhaul by truckers. You never reall pull the crank or the motor, just the bearings.you just need to get the crank loose enough in the saddles to be able to spin em in and out.usually loosening all the main bolts is enough .
Piece of cake, except for the oil dripping in your face and all.
I tried this before on a 350, but I could not for the life of me get the upper bearings to slide in. Is there a trick? Someone told me I could loosen the mains in such a way where I could lower the front of the crank. ??? How is that possible? I'm guessing it isn't. Thanks for the input!
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