[wyomingclimber]

After more hours than I care to remember, I've started painting my truck with 3 coats of single stage non-metallic black. I'm a little short on space and attention span, though, and am painting it a few pieces at a time.

My question is this: Will there be any significant color variation? Can I, for instance, paint the cab one day and the doors another?

Obviously, if this was silver metallic, I wouldn't even consider it. But black seems like it would just be black.

Thanks...

[sagola-spain]

Using the same primer, and spraying the same hands should be ok, single stages are pretty friendly.

Even with metallics would be possible, just little harder with some colors, here in Europe, and in most of the cases I had the opportunity to know, none of the plastic parts of the cars are painted in the manufacturing plant, not bumpers, gas tank lids, mirrors housings... they just paint the frame, and then put together all the parts in the assembling line, the color of all the parts uses to match, in most of the cases...

[chevymike]

From what I have been told and have read, black is the easiest color to paint in pieces. That's been my sticking point as I have to paint in pieces and really don't care for black so I haven't decided what I am going to do...

Just make sure you are doing the same prep, same primer/paint, finishing, etc., etc.

[OneMoreTime]

with solid non-metallics it should not be an issue..just make sure you have enough paint to finish the job before you start..

Sam

[302 Z28]

Should not be a problem, just make sure all your variables are the same and you will be fine.

Vince

[TucsonJay]

Black won't be much of an issue... but some single stage solid colors may have pigments that will settle to the bottom of the can or cup. so keep it mixed really well each time you fill the gun, or come back after a pause.

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I plan to basically do the same thing; paint a black Bronco
in sections. I'll do one side at a time, with the hood
and tailgate painted separately.

As long as the paint is out of the same can and thoroughly
mixed, I don't think there'll be a problem.....

[MARTINSR]

Some good advice has been given. BE SURE TO STIR UP THE PAINT GOOD! This is a given, but it is often neglected. I mean stir it up scraping the bottom of the can, VERY GOOD. Be sure you buy all the paint you need, if you go back to buy more you could get into trouble there.

Be sure to shop out the BLACKEST BLACK, one made from ONE toner if you can. MOST blacks you see are made from a formula just as every other color. Believe it or not most blacks you see on stock cars, to duplicate them may use five different colors off the mixing bank! So, YES, there ARE differences in "blacks" you see, BIG differences.

This will not affect you at all, as long as you buy all the paint you will need up front. And if you get one made from one toner it will certainly be no issue at all realistically.

Be sure you cover every square inch the same! Get around edges! This sounds like common sense, but again, missed even by the "pros" I deal with. It amazes me how a guy can paint something in a $100K booth with a $400 gun using the best materials you can buy and there are "holidays" all over the friggin thing where you can see the primer!


But without a doubt the biggest thing to painting a car in pieces has nothing to do with the paint at all! The most important part is to be sure that all panels fit properly and you will be able to bolt them together without a problem.

Again, oh, this sounds easy. But NO, my friends, it is another one missed by even pros doing it everyday. For Gods sake, TRIAL FIT EVERYTHING. We are talking EVERY SINGLE PART. What you don't trial fit, that part you think, "Awwww, it's brand new, I don't need to", or "It fit before I did all the body work and I didn't even touch it", or "My brother who sold me the car said it fit", I don't care what the story is, I don't care, THAT is the part that will be all chipped to hell because you couldn't bolt it on after painting without a wrestling match.

TRAIL FIT ALL PARTS.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Here are a couple "Basics" on the subject that can give you a little more info on painting in pieces and trail fitting.

Click here for "Basics of Basics" Paint togeter or apart?

Click here for "Basics of Basics" Trial fitting parts.

Brian

[wyomingclimber]

Thanks for all the advice and the links. I've got my hood set up and if weather permits I'm going to paint it today. Kind of scary...

The fit won't be a problem. How do I know this? Because they didn't fit when I took them off the truck That's one of the reasons I chose black--to help hide all the ridiculous gaps.

I bought two gallons of paint, but have no idea if that will be enough. I'm going to paint everything but the box and the rear fenders first, then see where I'm at with supplies. If I get paint with a slightly different shade then, it shouldn't show--none of the pieces touch each other...

[MARTINSR]

Yep, that should be enough paint, but it depends on how well that particular paint covers and what color is the primer/sealer you are shooting it over.

If you can get some black epoxy that would be killer.

On the fit, they do fit pretty funky sometimes but that could have been improved though. They don't have to fit poorly, usually a little work and you can make big differences.

Brian

[wyomingclimber]

I'm shooting over, well, a little bit of everything--thus the three coats.

I did a test panel last fall and it covered fine and held up to a pretty nasty winter on my deck without too much problem.

Getting the fit right was just beyond my abilities--it's a '52 Chevy pickup with doors off a prior year. And God only knows where the hood came from.

In the end it's 4x4 that goes out into the snow and hauls stuff. My goal here is for it to look absolutely amazing--from 15 feet away. On a cloudy day. At sunset.

And given my skills, that's probably ambitious...

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by wyomingclimber

I'm shooting over, well, a little bit of everything--thus the three coats.

I did a test panel last fall and it covered fine and held up to a pretty nasty winter on my deck without too much problem.

Getting the fit right was just beyond my abilities--it's a '52 Chevy pickup with doors off a prior year. And God only knows where the hood came from.

In the end it's 4x4 that goes out into the snow and hauls stuff. My goal here is for it to look absolutely amazing--from 15 feet away. On a cloudy day. At sunset.

And given my skills, that's probably ambitious...

You have multiple color primers? BAD IDEA If you are working with a kick ars high quality black, it can be done. But if you are working with a "value line" for sure, it can be a very bad idea. You THINK it is covering because, well, it was "black" after you painted it. But BELIEVE ME, you can paint a gray primed panel and a red primed panel and they both look "black" yet have to different colors when you put them side by side.

This will "probably" be fine and it sounds like you have realistic expectations and will have a smile on your face when done, THAT is the most important part.

On the doors, it sounds like you have put swing handle doors on a 52 which had push button doors? Believe it or not the cab is different as they use different strikers and the door jamb is different where the striker bolts!

In 51 there was both swing handle and push button and believe it or not they made sort of an "adapter" striker, look for a pair and you should be ok. But putting the swing handle doors on the 52 you have problems with the doors shutting properly and staying shut.

I think you are doing fine with your expectations. It least with the added info you won't be so surprised if something comes up and you can handle the challenge a little better.

Brian

[wyomingclimber]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

You have multiple color primers? BAD IDEA If you are working with a kick ars high quality black, it can be done. But if you are working with a "value line" for sure, it can be a very bad idea. You THINK it is covering because, well, it was "black" after you painted it. But BELIEVE ME, you can paint a gray primed panel and a red primed panel and they both look "black" yet have to different colors when you put them side by side.

One of many bad ideas, I assure you.

The test panel I shot had a worst case scenario of epoxy, Nason high build, FeatherFill, Rage, and bare metal. After a winter on my deck (metal temp went regularly from 150F to -20F over 24 hour periods) I could see no color variation.

I did have a little lifting on the bare metal parts (which I expected) but I think this was exacerbated by the fact that I hadn't gotten the anti-rust coating off the piece of sheet metal I used. The epoxy didn't stick all that well either.

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

This will "probably" be fine and it sounds like you have realistic expectations and will have a smile on your face when done, THAT is the most important part.

This is one of those two week projects that has taken 4 years. You know, one of those "never take the paint off because you don't want to know what's under it" kind of projects?

So, if my main mode of snow transportation isn't my bicycle this year I will look like this:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

On the doors, it sounds like you have put swing handle doors on a 52 which had push button doors? Believe it or not the cab is different as they use different strikers and the door jamb is different where the striker bolts!

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

In 51 there was both swing handle and push button and believe it or not they made sort of an "adapter" striker, look for a pair and you should be ok. But putting the swing handle doors on the 52 you have problems with the doors shutting properly and staying shut.

That would probably be why my door always swung open whenever I turned right. In truth, those 50s latches never worked in Wyoming according to an old rancher friend of mine--too much temperature variation.

The doors now would make your eyes cross. When I bought it: Swing handles, no vent window, glass with no metal frame, power windows. And to this mess I added: Bear claw latches and a key fob actuated deadbolt lock.

Oh, and did I mention that I had to take the rain gutters off the cab? Nothing like doors that are 1/2 and inch too small and no rain gutters I figure I'll use some 1/8" gasket material to build up the door rubber to get a seal.

God help me...

[MARTINSR]

BELIEVE ME, I know how you feel with the project taking on a life of it's own. On the drip rails, they attached under the lip so you could make up something pretty easy that could be screwed or riveted in place.
I had no drip rails on my truck when I originally chopped the top years ago. It was water tight, UNTIL you opened the door! Then all the water sitting on top of the door that the rubber was keeping out fell down on you.

Brian