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Old 06-30-2007, 01:23 AM
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Doc here,

Here is a basic diagram for a defeat system..

The wire from the relay coil should actually go to the exsisting Ignition wire strike the wire from the battery to the 1 amp goes to the Coil + wire that powers the ignition coil bad..crummy schematic software..BUT the rest remains the same..

The relay is a standard Bosch relay, you can get at ANY autoparts store for $4 fazools..the numbers on the wires in the schematic conform to the bottom of the standard bosch relay.

The Fuse is 1 amp , for the relay coil only.

The fuse link is 50 amp (can be a maxi fuse, and inline holder if desired) , it supports the draw of the coil. The 10 gauge wire is an upgrade..It will allow more current to the coil and the ignition should run better..

The Hidden switch may be as creative as you want..I usually install one of these headphone type jacks (Female side) around the CD player in the dash (so it looks like it belongs there..) The Plug (Male side) is soldered together (ring to tip) under the sleeve which unscrews, so that it completes the circuit when it is plugged in to the dash JACK..

When The PLUG is pulled out, the relay De~energizes, and the contacts open, cutting power to the coil..Ergo, the engine won't run..just take it with you when you leave the vehicle...You can chose any of these Styles from your local rat shak or fry's..JUST be sure the headphone JACK is isolated off ground , the grounded type will short.

You can use any other combination of hidden switches you want also, hiding them in "Creative " inside the gas flap, In the glove box or console (first place a crook looks..) under the dash..BEHIND the rear view mirror, Get as creative as you want..

If you want to be more slick, you can get a Mercury type switch,

Mount it on your sun visor, so that when you adjust it all the way is off.."No Start", adjust it so with a little downward adjustment (not enough to mess with your field of vision) It is "ON " and have to be careful with this though..bumps can be a bad thing if adjusted too close.

IF you have a CD RADIO can substitute the switch , and don't use the wire behind it coming from the Ignition "ON" , and isolate the "Power Antenna " wire off the back of the player (usually the blue wire)

In this configuration, the key MUST be on..(to turn the radio on) AND the radio must be on (so that there is power to the antenna) This has drawbacks..

the player must be on at all times while driving and you must use "mute" if you don't want to hear it..When you leave the car..take the detachable face plate with you and the car can not be can get as creative as you want..

You need two parameters in order for this to need the "jumper plug " installed AND you must have the Key ON , in order to get power to the coil..with only one element, or the other, you can crank until the battery goes dead, it won't start.

IF you REALLY want to get a 10 gauge wire from the 87a terminal, to the horn..If a crook tries to "jump" power to the + side of the coil..the horn goes off and stays on until the jumper is removed..(scares the humus right outta them..)

All those switch/location options are open to you..just pick one , or go with the basic drawing above..all are effective as a first line of defense.

many other options exist also.

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