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Old 02-23-2004, 03:51 PM
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Can you bondo over primer?

someone told me that i should prime my fenders because they are pitted and then skim a light coat of bondo over it to fill in the pits. my question, is it good to use bondo over primer or better to use it on bare metal.
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Old 02-23-2004, 04:35 PM
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Re: Can you bondo over primer?

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Originally posted by Fordy8man
someone told me that i should prime my fenders because they are pitted and then skim a light coat of bondo over it to fill in the pits. my question, is it good to use bondo over primer or better to use it on bare metal.
Fordy8man

Any body guys out there I need the same info, I am just abought to start reparing small bubbles in the paint.
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:48 PM
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First of, I'm not a true "bodyman". I would say that it depends on what brand and type of primer you're using.

I use DP (now DPLF or Lead-Free) 40 primer(PPG/Ditzler's catalyzed prime). With this primer, it is recommended to prime then put any body filler over it.

I've used this primer for over 13 years and never had a problem. The old lacquer based primers you had to do the opposite, filler first then prime.

Hope this help a little.
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:52 PM
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There are two schools of thought on this. As of late, body shops have been primering first with an epoxy primer, then doing body work. Of course if you are repairing a large damaged area, or rust I would repair that first then primer. Usually when a car is primered first the body is fairly straight and only requires surfacing to remove low spots. The old school method still works well of repairing the body defects then primer.

Vince
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Old 02-24-2004, 10:47 AM
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Body filler is nothing more than polyester resin with microspheres or microballoons added to it. That is what makes it "lightweight" and makes it easy to sand. It also makes it porous. If filler stays wet enough, it will actually absorb the water, and hold it against the metal like a sponge. The best way to protect the metal is by using a rock solid epoxy primer first, then subsequent coats of whatever. The epoxy primer will also adhere to the bare metal beter than the filler, making your bodywork more durable.
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:02 AM
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In theory, epoxy first sounds like the way to go . But for 50 years filler first, if applied right has worked perfect for me, why fix something that isn't broken??

Troy

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Old 02-24-2004, 11:33 PM
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I was taught to apply body filler over bare ground metal. A few bodyshops I worked at used epoxy primer first and applyed the filler over the epoxy primer. I think either way you want to do it would be fine, but you have to scuff up the epoxy primer before you apply your filler if the epoxy has sat a certain amount of time, I believe its something like a day or two, but not sure of the exact time.
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:23 AM
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Fillers today will stick to most anything. I've bondoed over bare metal, primer, epoxy primer, and never had a problem. I worked on a former taxi cab that had 3 inches of bondo over the paint, dang near had to chisel it out. I wouldn't bondo over paint myelf, but have no qualms about a skim coat over primer. Dan
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:06 AM
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Sounds about right to me, Dinger
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:51 PM
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thanks guys. you've all been good help.
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Old 03-08-2004, 02:03 PM
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What I do is this.Self etching primer(matrix),Epoxy prime(matrix),Filler(if not using lead) and then a high build primer(like transtar or 5 star).
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Old 03-09-2004, 12:40 AM
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One of the first things you learn doing body work, is to apply the filler to clean metal, that means no paint, primer, rust, just clean metal.

Troy
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:24 AM
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<---- worked in teh body shop for the last 5 years ... listen up

if you have panels that are starting to rustbuble and such, the VERY BEST way to repair the rust spots is to grind them, sand blast any little craters that are left from the rust ..... use a VERY high quality primer over them like PPG 271/275 .....

then just sand that w. 80 on a DA and bondo over it ..... i SWEAR that bondo will stick to todays high quality primers, just prime over everything again when your done to seal it up

The real reason for the idea that you have to apply bondo to bare metal, THEN prime over it is cause back in the day when body filler was still an undeveloped product that was a PITA to work with, it wouldnt stick to paint and it blead through to the paint, (yellow spotting) so shops would save all the primer for ONTOP to try to seal it real good, but that was only laquer primer ..... which is fawkin worthless too

grind, primer, bondo, sand, bondo, sand, primer, guidcoat, sand, if its as straight as you want ... its ready for paint


good luck man
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
<---- worked in teh body shop for the last 5 years ... listen up
Quote:
The real reason for the idea that you have to apply bondo to bare metal, THEN prime over it is cause back in the day when body filler was still an undeveloped product that was a PITA to work with, it wouldnt stick to paint
Well I'm glad that I know the REAL reason it was done that way. All of the years I did bodywork only to find out that it was not supposed to last. LowRoller....I hate to say, but some of the fillers they have today are the same fillers they had back when you were still riding the tricycle. Look at the directions on most cans of filler and it states to apply over clean metal. Everyone has a different way of doing things and when it comes to fillers some will apply over primer and some will apply over metal. The cars that we did were did to last for years. Applying over metal worked and if you take a look at the professional restorers, most will go to bare metal. One reason I like going to bare metal is to see what is under there. Especially if it is a car that has previously painted. I'm with Troy on this one.

Kevin
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:28 PM
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heh ... first off id liek to take back some of my drunken phrasing from my last post ... for example that **listen up** ... im not that ****y in real life .... only when ive got a full load in me

ill tyry this again ...

if you have panels that are starting to rustbuble and such,the way i prefere to repair the rust spots is to grind them, sand blast any little craters that are left from the rust and then brush in some high quality primer over the pitted areas... something like PPG 271/275 ..... just to try to hold the rust back for as long as possible, im anal about some stuff ... like my worries about rust coming back

its always best to grind down to bare metal, i agree TOTALY on that, cause you never know whats underneith the old stuff

when i DO primer an entire panel to start w/.... ill go back and sand that w. 80 on a DA and bondo over it ..... two fillers that i have experience using over the ppg 271/275 are the Bondo Brand and Everlite brand, ive seen both stick to the 271 quite well. after bodywork is done just prime over everything again when your done to seal it up

and then just ignore everything i said past this point in the LAST post on here ... lacquer is a good product when used properly ... works GREAT as a filler for perfecting the panel, just make sure you use the proper paints over it to avoid problems. my old boss attempted to use dbu/dbc base and 2002 clear over lacquer primer .... that held on for like 2 months ...

yes, alot of the fillers ARE the same stuff or only slightly different .... i actualy ment more about teh spot fillers (putty) .... THOSE have come a LONG LONG way since the green stuff

hopefully i sound LESS like an ashhole this time .. lol
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