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Old 03-29-2005, 03:10 PM
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Can you do the wave

Whats up guys. I have a 1970 camaro want to get it panted. Wanted to try the bodywork on my own. My problem is the body of the car looks a little wavey down the sides. Is not very much but noticable. I want to sand the dorrs and fenders even. Its not so bad that I need any filler or dents tapped out. If I use a straight line sander on the long parts like the doors and a DA on the smaller areas. What grit sandpapers should I start with? And follow up with before I prime. Like I said there is no dents. I was thinking 80 grit followed by 180 or 220.Please help

Thanks in advance

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Old 03-29-2005, 03:13 PM
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Buy an Air-file use 180-220
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Old 03-29-2005, 08:42 PM
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He said "No dents"

I'll buy that for a dollar. EVERY car DOOR that old HAS dents,You just haven't seen them yet.What do you think those waves are???
Sand it and they will appear right before your eye's.
Mostly dings from the jacka** in the parking space next to ya and the cheap fix is a little Evercoat spot putty.

As for sanding them even with a straight line,you'll get close but a nice long block will make them NICE with just a little elbow greese.

That's WHY it's called

Body WORK...

and...

A paint JOB.......
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Old 03-29-2005, 08:56 PM
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Blocking anything and making it straight is NOT done by machine ONLY by hand and block. Coarse paper, say 180/150 on a block will make panels straight(with the proper technique), fine paper,say 280/360 on up to the wet/dry 800/600 and so on, will make it smooth(not straight). This is what I work with, and is just my opinion. Hope it helps.
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:39 AM
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Thanks guys for your help. I think I will start hand block sanding with 180 to see what happens.
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:45 AM
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I agree with the rest of you , nothing beats hand blocking.
Just make sure your block is a good firm one.
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:19 AM
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And make sure your block is straight! I've had to tune many new blocks, and I've seen people try to make something straight with a crooked board many times. Blocking by hand is the only way to go if you're looking straight results, machine sanders are for rough in work or final sanding on not so perect repairs. I usually apply some self adhesive 80 grit sandpaper to a known flat straight surface like a piece of glass or a piece of metal plate the run the bare board/block over it to true the surface- it's surprising how many boards and blocks being sold today aren't straight. You'll also notice distortion on older plastic and rubber boards from shrinkage and warper wood handles on sanding boards. Some of my boards are 32" long. JMO's
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:22 AM
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Hand blocking is only a part of the answer. Hand blocking pulls out small waves. You need to air-file to cover a larger contact surface. The best way is to float an air-file first, from there you can block or stick 320

Hand blocking alone will not always give you a show car quaility, you can look down the car and the only thing you did was take the waves from every 3" to every 1foot.

The waves are from when the panels are made. I have noticed that when I order the japanese reproduction panels they seem to have more of the waves then the USA made stuff for whatever reason, I'm guessing because they are thinner.

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Old 03-30-2005, 08:09 PM
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sanding

I have a friend of mine who has done body work for 43 years now, and he told me i dont need an air sander to get a perfect job. He said that he does all his work with hand blocks. I thought about buying an air sander, but think i will do it his way and save my money.
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Old 03-30-2005, 08:13 PM
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The air sander HAS it's place,which is a tool for quick knock down of material,BUT,It's by NO means a "finishing" tool.
That is reserved for your aching arms & hands.
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Old 03-30-2005, 08:22 PM
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A remark to the air file, there are hand blocks that are as long and longer than an air file plus you can/will get a longer stroke by hand than an air file. Air files have a very short stroke compared to hand and they have to moved with great care and consistancy so not to take out to much material in a spot. To a professional it's habit to a novice it's impossible. I've seen "old school" guys take a length of 2x4 and plane in down and put some longboard paper and block down mile long quarter panels. I've even used a 3ft chunk of flat aluminum stock for a block. Go with the hand block.
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Old 03-30-2005, 09:01 PM
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I disagree completely, but to each their own, I'm not trying to brag by any means, I have had several show cars make it into magazines. We all have are own way of doing things. For me an air-file is needed and is used as a finishing tool. Others may feel they can just as good as job with blocks maybe so, but there is a big difference between what they have and show car quality. I dont care if everyone disagree's I stand firm on needing an air-file. Blocks have there place but its not the same.
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Old 03-30-2005, 09:24 PM
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everyone has their own opinion, makes life interesting I guess, IMO?
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Old 03-31-2005, 08:24 AM
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Thanks again for all your help. You guys are great. Knowledge is the key and there is plenty here.
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Old 03-31-2005, 10:41 AM
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Sounds to me for those long wavy panels the answer is a "long" flat
block. Wether an air file or manual sander "long" is the way to go.
I have used a 2X4 after flattening on my wood jointer, even though
it doesn't stay flat after using it in water, it works really good the
first time. the next time I use it I just flatten it again or start a new one.
The hard flat surface works the best that's for sure.
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