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Old 05-29-2005, 07:42 PM
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Candy is done THANK YOU PICS

Well the Clear is finally on and the sun finally came out so I was able to take a few shots and post them. Thank You to everyone that gave me advise or made comments that led to discussions that were invaluable to getting this project finished. This is my first attempt at Candy and I couldn't be happier with the results. Thanks again everyone!

Ric
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Old 05-29-2005, 07:44 PM
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Here are two more shots in the second one you can see the metalic in the picture. The entire car looks this good it is just very hard to get a picture that shows it.

Ric
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Old 05-29-2005, 10:07 PM
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Well,ZZD old gal.
(in my best Billy Crystal voice)

You look, MARVELOUS
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Old 05-30-2005, 04:38 AM
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Nice, very nice!
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Old 05-30-2005, 08:00 AM
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Looks good!
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Old 05-30-2005, 08:03 AM
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great color on that car! Rims really round out the package.
I bet your glad to be done with that job
dave
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Old 05-31-2005, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsss396
great color on that car! Rims really round out the package.
I bet your glad to be done with that job
dave
Yup Glad to be done the paint but starting to research how to colour sand and buff. I tried a search on here for colour I mean color sand and buff but did not get too much in the line of how to. Does anyone have a good link.

Thanks
Ric
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Old 05-31-2005, 09:37 PM
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Yup.
PM badbob
There IS a post just a week or so back on this. Might have been the Clear Coat one??
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Old 05-31-2005, 09:42 PM
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Here you go

I think this is it.
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Old 06-02-2005, 09:04 AM
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for color sanding ( wet sanding ) the clear allot of people start with 1000 or 800 if there are runs or bad orange peel.
Personally myself I like to start with 1500 then 2000, you could even go up to 3000.
The 1500 has allot of grit to it and well remove minor orange peel with out any problems, just a little slower than 800 or 1000.
But if you don't buff allot, I personally feel starting with a finer grit means you have finer and shallower scratches to buff out, meaning it will shine easier with less buffing.
Remember you buff the paint to bring back the shine not remove imperfections like orange peel, dry spots, runs or waves.
The foam pads from 3M and Mequires are great for beginners new to buffing.
I use the 3M polish for there foam pad and there rubbing compound that can be used with foam or wool.
I prefer the softer polishing foam pad over the cutting foam pads even when using the rubbing compound.
Your buffer itself can make or break your job also. I use a dewalt electronic variable speed buffer, it has a thumb dial to adjust the rpm from 1000 to 3000 and well hold that speed no matter the load applied to it. It also runs slower than 1000 with the finger trigger when needed, which is nice to slowly spread the polish or compound on the panel before increasing to a polishing speed.
I also have a porter cable orbital buffer w/ foam pad, this buffer is not like any orbital buffer the average home owner buys from sears to apply wax with.
It is much more aggressive and does a excellent job but must be done 2-3 times to reach the same shine as the circular buffer.
But the big advantage is, it's just about impossible to burn thru the paint even on the edges.
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Old 06-02-2005, 12:59 PM
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It's is best to go up to the 2000 at least as trying to cut out 1500 scratch does require alot of work for the "perfect" type finish I know your wanting.
Those 3m 3000 Trizac pad's are the answer. You almost don't have to buff after using those and 1 pad will do the whole car and then some.
I use the wool pad and Perfect-It-II first with just the 1500 scratch as it does cut hard and a white waffle pad for the edges as it's almost impossiable to cut thru with it on an edge.Not saying to get sloppy but they will make it ALOT easier and less nerve racking around the edge's.
When I use the Trizac wet,I just go with the white waffel pad first and a light compound like Perfect-It-III.

Last edited by Bee4Me; 06-04-2005 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 06-03-2005, 11:32 PM
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looking nice, nice job on paint
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Old 06-04-2005, 12:33 PM
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Beautiful job. That's good advice on the color sanding too. I have never done one dry but I may try it.

Tom
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Old 06-05-2005, 08:07 AM
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The dry sanding is fast on a DA but I still get better results if I do the first cut by hand wet with a block, after that the DA can really speed things up. The quality is also much better if you sand out to 3000 and buff then if you start buffing at 1000 or 1500 IMO. Regular production type work only needs the DA sanding usually. Mirka also offers a good DA system for colorsanding called Abralon(sp) this is used wet and has the interface foam built in.
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Old 06-11-2005, 10:29 AM
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Thanks for the comments guys.

As you are aware I have been looking into sanding and buffing the car now that the paint is done. These are the costs that I would be looking at in Canadian Dollars.

Trizac Sanding discs $90 per box only sold by the box
Mounting systems for DA $60 (Hook and LoopII intermediate pad
Compound $90
Cheap buffer (I don't have one) $149
Hand glaze $35
Paper towels etc. etc. probably about $50

That would mean I would have about 475 dollars in supplies just to get started on this job. Using the hottroodders rule of thumb it would probably end up costing me double so lets say around $800

My son got a price from a local body shop (Charterhouse Collision) and they told him depending on the state of the clear coat they would charge $250 to$400 to sand and buff the car. My son says he has seen some of their work and it looks great.

What do you guys think at the best $475 plus days of labour and see how my first sand and buff turns out or pay the man and get it done professionally?

Ric
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