I had a brake system in my Maverick for several years that functioned poorly, but had a good hard pedal. This manual brake system consisted of GM Metric front calipers (2.38" bore) on 11" rotors, factory Ford Racing 11" rear drums, and a Granada 15/16" master. I decided to replace the front calipers with Wilwood big-bore (2.75" bore) stock replacements. After bleeding, the pedal would go to the floor, but pumping it a few times it would stay off the floor. I figured the master was running out of fluid with the larger front pistons. Tried a 1" bore Corvette C3 master but it was too wide and hit the valve cover. Now I've got a Ford F-100 master with a 1" bore and still cannot get a pedal. I did notice that the Wilwood calipers do NOT have the bleeder screws at the high point, so I removed them and stuck a 1" hardwood block between the pads so I could bleed them with the bleeder screw straight up.
Things I'm seeing that don't jibe:
- Seemed to take forever to bench bleed with line loops, finally got it air-free after 50 plus strokes.
- If I reach through the window and slowly depress the pedal with a broomstick, fluid flows up and out of the forward chamber of the reservoir (rear brakes), the other chamber does not do this.
- When I pressure bleed, even with 30# on top of the reservoir, I can still rotate the rear wheels by hand as if the rear brakes are not working at all.
- When I "suck" on a bleeder screw with my My-T-Vac, it looks like bubbles are coming out, but if I use my pressure bleeder (or a foot), solid fluid stream and no bubbles?
I have no idea where to go from here, I plan on calling Wilwood Monday to see what they say. If I could find a helper, I would use dial calipers to check for caliper deflection. Defective master? Wouldn't know where to start as far as pressure gauging parts of the system. Anyone ever done this?