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Cant bleed new brakes...

4K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  crazy larry 
#1 ·
Hello all, I am at wits end with this one. I have looked around at all of the posts, and I have tried everything. I have a 1969 Chevy c-10 pickup that I just finished putting a front disc brake conversion with drop spindles onto. I completly rebuilt the front suspension, all new bushings, cross shafts, tie rod ends, ball joints etc. I have installed a brand new disc brake kit, new calipers, hoses, master cylinder, some hard lines, and an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit. I cannot get the brakes to bleed for the life of me. I bench bled the MC once before i installed it, and now another time just incase. I get fluid after the factory metering block for a few pumps on the pedal, and then just air. I have filled the calipers with fluid, and I will get air and fluid out of the bleed screws for the first 2 times when following the standard bleeding procedure, and then nothing. I purchased a hand vacuum pump, and I still cannot get them to bleed.

I am thinking it is because of all of the air in the system. I had the rear differential out of the truck for 2 days, so the rear circuit bled down during that, and I had the front apart for 4 days, so it bled down at that point. So basically I am starting off with a dry system. Any recomendations? I have it sitting tonight with the bleed screws on the front calipers open to see if it will gravity bleed.

I am thinking of having it power bled at a local brake shop tommorow. Is there anything else I should try first? I worked on this for 5 hours straight yesterday and I am out of ideas. I just wanna drive the truck!!!! :smash: Thanks!!
 
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#2 ·
use the pressure bleeding tool and just crack of one bleed nipple at a time start at the nipple which is at the rear and do the left then the right and do the same on the front and you should get fluid to the brakes then bleed it up as recomended in the book
good luck stuart
 
#3 ·
Are your calipers on the right sides? Some calipers can be reversed from right to left but the bleeder screws wind up being on the bottom side of the piston. If this is the case you will always have air trapped in the calipers. The bleeders should be on the top side of the caliper if they are mounted right.

Just a thought.
 
#4 ·
had the same problem on my car when i swapped over to 12" brakes and coilovers, i replaced everything but the wheel cylinders. while bench bleeding with the supplied fittings and hose, the front reservoir would keep blowing out bubbles while the rear was pushing out straight fluid. this was also with a new MC from MP brakes, thanks guys :spank: , coughed up the dough for a replacement and it solved my problem. one of the cup seals in the MC had to be bad, though i never checked to confirm this. when you get the problem sorted out, flush the whole system to get rid of any contaminated fluid. Good Luck finding the culprit.
 
#5 ·
bleeding

Start with back brakes first. Open bleeder screw. Attach clear plastic aquarium tube. Put other end in a cup with some brake fluid in it so it can't draw air back into the system. Then just start pumping. All the air will be out when you stop seeing bubbles in the cup. Move from passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Keep MC topped up. Then go around a second time. This always works for me. Power bleed would be second option. But power bleed can blow seals on MC.
 
#7 ·
Well, I have some sad news for everyone. I finally get this truck done mechanically, and I drive it for one day, and some inconsiderate jerk pulls out in front of me, and now the truck is wrecked! Now I need all new front sheetmetal, radiator, fans and maybe a new supercharger because it took quite a beating from the radiator and core support. The plus side of things is its not my fault, and the truck is fixable. Ohh well, time to start over on the front end! :smash:
 
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