[jrjeb]

i have a 92 s10 with a 4.3 in it and i cant get it to start
it ran fine a week ago and now it wont start
it seemed like the fuel pump went out so i replaced it
then i put in a new fuel filter and cleaned the injectors
i put in new spark plugs and it still wont start
its driving me crazy so if anyone can offer any help i could relly use it
thanks for any replies

[57 Chevy]

Are you getting spark?

[1969NovaSS]

The three big things you need to find out are:
1. Spark at the plugs
2. Fuel pressure ( just cuz you changed the pump doesnt mean its getting power)
3. Noid-a light you put on your injectors to see if they are firing.

One of theose isnt happening so you must run those test before you should proceed.

[weirdbeard]

I had to delete what I just said. I am a moron that cant read apparently. Thanks

[larryblack]

There is a module inside your distrubutor that when it fails, it shuts off both the fuel and ignition. The ECM must see pulses from this module before it will fire the injectiors or allow the spark to be triggered.

[docvette]

Doc here,

First, you must determine if it is Fuel or Fire to do any effective troubleshooting.

SHORT TEST: poor some gas into the Throttle body, and try and start it..If it fires and dies..it's fuel not fire..

LONG TEST:

Put an OLD timing light on any plug wire and crank, If you have any useful fire at all, it will strobe as you crank..If not, you have spark problems.

FIRST, check the fuses at the fuse buss marked:

• Computer
• ECM
• INJ 1, 2, ect..
• IGN or Coil..

If those are good, Using your DVOM, DCV Scale, Range V X 50 or higher, Check the wire at the HEI distributer that is marked "BATT" it should have 12 Volts on that wire when the key is on. If that is good,

Check the coil..If it's a Standard GM type in cap coil, set your DVOM to OHMS scale, R X 1 Range, Calibrated to 000, Measure between the BATT and The TACH terminals, It should read, less than an ohm, but more than 000. more or less toss the coil and get a new one, it bad or going..

Next set the DVOM range to R X 10K or higher..Measure between the Rotor pickup inside the cap, to The BATT terminal. It should read between 6,000 and 30,000 Ohms. Outside of this range toss it , it's bad.

If the coil is good, Test the Distributer module (the flat "C" looking module laying at the bottom of the Dizzy), Remove it, take it to auto zombie and have them test it.

If it Is bad Have them test the new module you get as well..the fail rate out of the box is VERY high..and once you leave the store it's your problem!

In either case..reinstalling the old, or installing the new, DO NOT FORGET the heat sink compound! Clean off the old and re~Apply the new generously (but not sloppy) and install, If you don't you will be doing this again in a week or so..

If all that is good, then the magnetic pickup may be bad..To test that using your OHM meter, set to R X 1 K scale, measure between the wires on the two post end..(for accurate specs, look it up in the manual, or ask the auto parts guy..) on that year, I think, It should read around 4 to 5 k ohms..If you have that , It should be good..If you need a new one , you must pull the distributer..

If you have all that , you should have spark, test again, using a timing lamp or clamp a spark into a jumper cable, the other end to ground..crank and look for spark. If it is there..Go to the fuel side of the house..

First check the Fuses marked "Fuel pump" for open..If good, locate the fuel pump relay, Swap it out with a known good relay and try again..If no fuel,

Check the pressure / Volume with a gauge.. find out what your pressure should be and test. If "0" or low, check your filters..or further back for pump operation..If none,

Determine if your vehicle has a "Rollover" switch, If so , reset it and try again.

If no pump ops, Check the ground at the pump to frame BE SURE it is properly bonded.

If still dead, pull the power wire to the pump, using your DVOM, set for DCV, scale 50 Volt or higher scale, measure the line with the key on, It should have power..If so..replace the pump again, the new one is defective.

Follow this outline and you should find the problem..

Doc

[sbchevfreak]

If all that is good, then the magnetic pickup may be bad..

A common failure on these dizzys was that the magnet in the armature (rotating part on the shaft) would crack, sometimes you could see it, other times just hairline. The smaller cracks usually caused a random missfire, and if they got big enough, and enough of them, the engine wouldn't run. Also, the ushings would wear out and allow the armature to contact the pickup and cause a missfire or no start condition.

[jrjeb]

first thanks for the replies
its not fireing
i got a new coil and still nothing
i tried a spark tester on plug wire and then coil wire and got nothing
so if anyones got more suggestions im all ears
as alwayse thanks for any replies

[docvette]

Originally Posted by jrjeb

first thanks for the replies
its not fireing
i got a new coil and still nothing
i tried a spark tester on plug wire and then coil wire and got nothing
so if anyones got more suggestions im all ears
as alwayse thanks for any replies

Doc here,

HAVE you tried EVERYTHING I listed in my post?

Doc

[Jmark]

Apparently not. LOL

At this point with all the money spent, it would have been cheaper to have it scanned.

Mark

[blazin47]

You can jump the last two upper right pins on the computer hookup under the dash and count the blinks of the check engine light. Each one blinks 3 times. First on will be 1 then 2 blinks which is code 12, that means the system is working. Example 2 blinks slight pause then 5 blinks, which is code 25. As I said, each code with blink 3 times and then go on to the next code. When you get back to 12, the cycle is complete.. No spark on most S10's is either the module or the pickup coil.

[jrjeb]

i found the problem
it was the control module the mounts under the distributor
thanks everyone that replied

[weirdbeard]

Yep see! I told ya! JK

[docvette]

Doc Here,

Glad to hear you got it fixed!

You DID apply the Heat Sink Compound as outlined? Right? If not it WILL burn up again, in a few days!

Doc

Originally Posted by docvette

If the coil is good, Test the Distributer module (the flat "C" looking module laying at the bottom of the Dizzy), Remove it, take it to auto zombie and have them test it.

If it Is bad Have them test the new module you get as well..the fail rate out of the box is VERY high..and once you leave the store it's your problem!

In either case..reinstalling the old, or installing the new, DO NOT FORGET the heat sink compound! Clean off the old and re~Apply the new generously (but not sloppy) and install, If you don't you will be doing this again in a week or so..
Follow this outline and you should find the problem..

Doc

[larryblack]

Originally Posted by docvette

Doc Here,

Glad to hear you got it fixed!

You DID apply the Heat Sink Compound as outlined? Right? If not it WILL burn up again, in a few days!

Doc

Your overly optimistic on living a few days with out the heat sink compound. Unless you know for a fact the vehicle is not driven or only driven a couple of miles.