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Old 04-30-2004, 08:57 PM
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johnsongrass1 johnsongrass1 is offline
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the caster and camber had too much negative to it.

I didn't think caster was adjustable on F-body cars? Camber is with the loosening of the three bolts on the shock tower brace under the hood but they will only slide side to side. nless you have installed adjustable plates. The alignment guy should have checked for worn wheel bearings before the service. For it's the number one reason for crappy alignment's. Even if the machine was off calibration they are normally serviced around every two weeks here.

To check wheel bearings, jack car up with a floor jack pad placed under the front K member so the suspension is free hanging. Grab top of tire and bottom of tire and wiggle hard. If any play is noticed, then the wheel bearings are shot. IF they wiggle you may also have bad lower ball joints. Have a buddy check for slack while you wiggle the tires.

I was noticing you were referring to caster, camber as the same thing. Just for clarification caster is the angle of the king pin in relation to the vertical plane while camber is the angle of the center line of the tire in relation to the horizontal plane. Caster tilts the tire back and forth while camber points the tires side to side.

The left hand turn noise tells me the tire is gaining camber(Ackerman) and rolling around the corner on the outside of the tire. Will the noise go away if you turn a fast lazy left? This get's the car to roll onto the right side and the tire should deflect enough to correct the problem causing the noise to disappear.


Play in the steering wheel indicates slack or to much toe out. When you said the tires worn out fast where were they worn?The inside wear pattern indicates they were scrubbing the road with toe out and outside where indicates the tires were scrubbing the road with toe in.

The settings are not possible to see with the eye, the settings are in degree's of 360. Sometimes even as little as 1/4 of a degree will make a difference.

My advice would be to look for bent front sub frame or torsional twist. T he alignment guy should be able to rig up the lasers and tell you how square the car is. Most unibody cars of that age are tweaked to dog walk by leading the left rear tire by 1/16. I wouldn't worry about anything over 1/8.

Oh by the way, Did you NOT see the cinder block!!? LOL

(I just thought of something, If the tire had to much negitive caster, meaning the top of the tire was leaning forward that would indicate something is really bent. Cars always use positive caster so the king pins push the tire along. It's also responsible for giving you the "on center feel" and it returns the wheel to center when you let go of the wheel after negotiating a turn.)

Last edited by johnsongrass1; 04-30-2004 at 09:03 PM.
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