I did a few different searches and checked out the knowledge base too but can't seem to find the specific alternator wiring info I need.

From all the descriptions I seem to have a 3-wire alternator but of the variety that actually only has two wires. One to the battery and one red on the top terminal plug.

I have just started wiring the 91 350 TBI motor into my '53 210.

All info I see refer to 3 wires in total with one going to the battery, the brown going to the charge indicator and the red back to the live system.

From what I understand that red wire is for the internal regulator to sense the voltage. Is this right?

Is the red wire on mine the same as the red wire in the 3-wire described above? If so, is there a way to have a charge light?

Doc here,

Do you have 3 discrete terminals?

One large lug on the back for power to the battery, One Red to the large lug, and one unused?

If so, you have a 3 wired configured to operate as a 1 wire.

If you can, snap a photo of the top plug on the alternator, post it, ..I can then tell you better what you have..

Doc

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Thanks Doc,

Here's the pic. Unfortunately that red wire was like that when I bought the motor. No other wire's apart from that one and the battery cable.

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doc here,

OK, If you pull that plug..Are there two terminals under there?

Doc

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There are actually four terminals in there. The attached pics I show both the plug and the socket.

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The alt is a CS130, and the terminal are generally going to be labeled as P-L-I-S. The S terminal is the large terminal and is for remote voltage sensing. The one you wire likely went to is the L terminal which is the middle of the 3 smaller terminals. It is connected back to the idiot light and then back to the ignition. If you run a switched ignition source wire to the middle terminal, you will turn on the regulator when you start the car. The lead will need to run through an idiot light or you will need to add a 47 ohm resistor, as the regulator can not handle a full 12 volts through that terminal.

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Doc here,

ERIC is correct..

the "L" terminal is all you need .. follow his outline to hook it up!

Thanks Eric..

Doc

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From the picture, it looks like your CS130 has an external fan (?). The 'other' CS130 is commonly called a cs130D - it has an internal cooling fan and the terminals on that one are commonly labeled P-L-I-S.

The difference is, on the CS130 with the external fan you can readily see the rotating cooling fins which spin on the shaft, adjacent to the pulley. The pins on this unit are most likely labeled P-L-F-S. On this alternator (external cooling fan), if you do not wish to run an idiot light and you don't want to install the resistor, you can run a 12 V source to the F pin rather than the L pin - it will work fine and will not damage the internal regulator. This setup would be for those who usually have a volt meter to monitor the charging system. I have run this setup for years on my CS130 - it was recommended to me by the tech in our local alternator/starter shop.

Perhaps someone can address whether one could do the same on the CS130D with the internal fan.

Doc here,

Here is the diagram for the CS series..



Doc

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Very cool guys !!!

Yes, I have the one with the external fan and yes, when looking at the plug, mine IS going to the F pin.

I also do want to run a charge light as I've already made provision for it on the dash. I have grown so accustomed to having the charge light that I'll feel more comfortable having it.

cucumber1949, from your explanation above I understand that I don't need a resistor on the F terminal. In my case I will be using a high intensity L.E.D. for the charge light due to my custom setup. To make the L.E.D. work on 12V one needs to use a 1k resistor. Will that interfere with the correct working of the alternator or does a normal small bulb also have the same high-ish resistance?

Thanks for the diagram Doc. It's much appreciated. Thanks to you too Eric.

The short answer regarding the LED light is that I'm not sure. Prior to the advice from our tech I just used a 15 ohm 2 watt resistor when not using a charge lamp. Never had a problem. Now I use the setup mentioned above along with a volt meter.

By the way, the way I read Doc's disagram, it looks to me as though the F and L leads are reversed. My understanding is that the L lead is for use with a charging lamp. In taking a look at one of Painless diagrams, they confirm that as well.

Thanks for that. Today I actually saw the markings on the plug and it's definitely P-L-F-S but as I said before my plug is on F.

Once connected, will that actually make the alternator charge as it doesn't otherwise. I will only get to wiring the plug into the "system" next weekend or the weekend after.

At least I made the engine start in the car using the ignition key and accelerator pedal. Now I just need to sort timing and do the brakes before I can try a test ride down the street.

In answer to cucumber1949, about the CS130D you can wire it up similarly. The CS130D has a slightly different shaped plug but the terminals a basically the same.

There are 2 different basic regulators for the CS130/144 alternators. One has the terminals are labeled PLFS, and the earlier version is PLIS. The F terminal has a frequency output that allows it to tie into the PCM of some vehicles to monitor the charging systems. I was not aware that a 12V ignition source could be connected for alternator operation.

Doc I just want to clarify, the light would generally be in series with the L terminal, wouldn't it?

Eric

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Doc here,

Here is the way I understand it..

L=Lamp
P=Stator and can also be used as a tach drive
F=Field/Connected internally to Field positive AND may be used as a Fault Indicator..
S=Sensing wire to Battery or system.
I=Regulator.

When used in concert the L and I can be used to turn the regulator on and off..





BTW:That other Diagram I posted was not mine..But came Directly from Powermaster Alternators if it was in error let me know....I'll inform them.

Doc

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Hi Doc,

Yes, from all the other research I did on the CS130 the 'L' terminal is meant for using with a charge lamp. Aparently if you use a small bulb it has enough resistance eliminating the need for a resistor.

One guy mentioned he uses a 5-10ohm while another source says at least 35ohm but not more than 350ohm.

I guess if I want to use a L.E.D. with a 1k resistor I'll have to build a small circuit allowing the alt to see low enough resistance but will make the L.E.D. operate like it should. I'm thinking a very small relay or even transistors. What do you think Doc?