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Can't see out of side mirror!

2K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 ·
:) I have a Ford truck ('47 COE) that has its mirrors mounted on the hinge pins. My problem is, because there is no inside mirror, I have to use the side mirror and frankly I'm looking in the ditch rather than the road behind me.:p The mirror has been adjusted as far as it will go and I still see the ditch.:pain: Is there any way to get more adjustment from this type of mirror?:confused: To bend the stem is out of the question as it is chrome and cast and to rotate it further on the hinge pin is impossible as it is as far as it will go. As to placing a mirror on the inside, there really was no place to put one. Really need help go this one!
 

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#2 ·
Here are some COE mirror examples:
https://www.google.com/search?q=For...w=1289&bih=723&dpr=1.25#imgrc=Lb4VcfUBGdzVEM:

With the height of your rig, & the long stalk mirror mount of your current mirrors, I don't see a feasible way that your existing mirrors could ever be adjusted in your application. I believe that you need to get mirrors that will mount more in your line-of-sight, as you look straight ahead; not up @ angle, like you are now.......
 
#4 ·
easy peasy: make a new mirror arm :D

i had a similar problem with my 58 and the side mounted spare tire
the stock arm worked fine for the stock 5'' wide tire, but not when i mounted a 255 r70 15 tire on there
i suffered thru 3 years and many miles of looking past the 255 tire into the ditch
yes, your arm mounts differently. any shape can be fabricated most of the finish/polishing was done by hand

i made the new arm out of 304 ss rod and plate to move the mirror head out 3''



i do have to be careful backing out :D



ss base plate, the 15 yr old chromed pot metal repop arms are already pitted

 
#5 ·
;) To answer some of the questions asked.... my seat is powered and no matter how high or forward or downward I place it, at times it makes it more difficult to even see the mirror. The truck is painted and I'm pretty sure that, if the mirrors were removed, the hinges behind the mirror would be scratched and so would require some touch-up.:pain: The hinges also have a hole (was there when the truck was being built), serving the purpose of using a stock style mirror.:confused: In other words, I would have to remove the mirrors, fill in the hole that was drilled into the hinge itself and then design a mirror that would suffice, and I just had the truck painted!
 
#6 ·
"at times it makes it more difficult to even see the mirror."

Consider this: Have someone stand on a ladder next to your COE, holding a shaving mirror, (or one similar), in a position where you CAN see the road behind/adjacent to your COE. Note the mirror position, (or take a couple of pics), then you'll know what you can look for as replacements for your existing mirror(s).

There might be some aftermarket "fat-fendered" Ford hinge-mounted mirrors that could solve your dilemma........
 
#10 ·
Loosen up that bolt, it looks to lock it in place. I think it will swing back if you do that. Give it a try, see if it will. That may be enough for you to see it. This may not the perfect solution, but it will give you an idea of where it will need to be. Just guessing it has to go in and down and all that could be out the window with one tiny movement.

Brian
 
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#11 · (Edited)
i have run into this issue for decades on various right side mirrors.. when they are used on the left side.. there is very little angle twisted in the ball on the mirror back..

with right side mirrors instead of a conventional C shape.. it must be a C shape on the back of the mirror..

you have several choices.. bend the end of the rod slightly. you might be able to do a angled adapter that screws on the mirror mounting stud. that a shortened mirror stud will thread into at an angle.. and still look nice.. do you have access to a vertical mill?? \=/ or |=/

if it looks nice.. nobody will fault you on it.. but most people will ask where you got it from as they want one.
 
#12 ·
;) I've removed the bolt that goes into the hinge and cannot rotate the arm, which holds the mirror. It's rotated as far back as it will go as the hinge tends to get wider and therefore will not allow the mirror to rotate any more on its axis. Maybe the other types would fit?
 
#16 ·
;) The back up system only works when you're backing up; considered it. Fatties mirror would only work if I placed an extension to move them back. The only option I see, at the moment, is to bend the cast arm rearward to move the mirror back so one can see it.
 
#17 ·
is there an option of a convex mirror for the right side.. you know the ones that have objects in the mirror are closer than they seem..

do you have a close up from several angles of the mirror attachment to the end of the arm... and do you have a brand on those mirrors..

Truck-Lite - Catalog Product : Small Convex Mirror Assemblies 5'' Round

https://www.millsupply.com/5-convex-mirror-wi-61457.php?p=6265

perhaps the mirror supplier has some offset mirrors for the right side.. or matching convex mirror heads..

these are JUST IDEAS to reflect on..

wow.. that is almost as bad as not being able to detect vampires coming in from outer space as the telescopes all use mirrors. as vampires cannot be seen in a mirror..
 
#18 ·
i don't see anything there that can't be easily reproduced from some ss flat stock and rod
i'd rather see beside me than to ruin the side of my truck, thus i spent the time to redo mine

one thing nice on my big back window 58 truk is that it's like driving in a fishbowl
i can look over either shoulder and see everything behind or beside me

 
#19 ·
;) Replacing the mirror head with a convex one may do the job and so will whacking the mirror arm (although it is chromed and cast). Grinding the inside of the mirror mount may provide just enough clearance to turn the mirror inward.:confused: All great ideas that may bear some fruit. I was thinking of removing the mirrors and using peep mirrors (4") on the door edge, but I had one on my deuce and all I could see was part of the inside of the car. Waste of money!:pain: Mind you it was the small one...3".
 
#22 ·
;) I made an extension from a stainless steel bolt which moved the mirror backward about 1 1/2". Still could not see behind. I then took this same extension and bent it 15 degrees. Now I could see only half of the mirror and only half of what was behind me.:D Beginning to work, but need to make a new extension (longer bolt) and bend it slightly more.:drunk: I do like the idea of a camera system and will have to look at a few of them. Any recommendations as to which one is better or feasible?:confused: Meanwhile I'll play around with the extension.
 
#23 ·
I don't have a recommendation. We are just now experiencing the wonders of our first b/u cam in our 2016 CTS VSport. From now on, all of our vehicles will have either a factory or aftermarket system. So helpful!

Russ
 
#24 ·
i just envisioned the ultimate fix.. a U bolt with a twist.. mounted out the front of the arm. going downward and slightly inward the 15 degrees.. so you can have the mirror at the same rear distance with style. you will probably end up bending your own..

one could get creative and fill the jam nut area and grind it smooth.. and add a coupling nut for the mirror stud to screw into.. again welding and grinding it.. then a quick chrome job. might have to tap the threads in the coupling nut with the +.005 tap so the threads still work after chroming.

something that might look like this. @ well.. maybe not.. i guess i will have to Reflect on this some more.
 
#26 ·
Been here. You want the look and you want it to work also.


The fix is Simple in some cases. You need to shim the mount up. If you have a single post it can be more of a pain then dual or triple post. You will want to use a wedge made out of washers welded, grinded, then cut/grinded to give you the angle you need. You want a flat wedge as a result having a wedge that is stepped can make dimples around the paint. Add weld and grind down smooth ending up with a smooth part that has no steps.

You notch your post to door mount so the wedge does not move and you simply snug it down.

You can find the angle you need by poisoning the post(s) till the bolt is almost off the threads and moving the mirrior where it is needed. Then you measure the gap on the outside of the door. A helper is good here but you can use wedges of wood to get a close measurment. Then you make the metal wedges out of washers. You can make nice ones on a machine. But they go inside the door.

Now if you needed to go a bit extreme on the wedge then you are going to have a gap. In most cases a rubber gromet placed inside the post hole will seal out any leaks. If you still have a gap after trying out gromets or just don't like the look of the gromet you can massage the hole so the outside of the post lays flat by taking a bolt with a round slug the same size as the post base.

Slide the bolt and slug on the outside.
Slide the wedge and nut on the inside.

Tighten both in steps. Tightening a bit past snug removing the pressure fully then doing it a few more times. If you tighten it to much to fast you risk cracking the paint around the mirrior post.

It can be done. But it does have a high chance of cracking the paint of you don't take your time. The grommet is the recomended fix for nice paint jobs. You want soft rubber that will squeeze. Make sure to use a lock washer(s) on the post.
 
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