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Old 03-20-2012, 05:04 PM
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Captive Nuts or Riv-Nuts?

I've got to fit some captive nuts to my chassis front crossmember

Should I weld some nuts to the back of the crossmember, or should I use some rivnuts?

I've only just found out about rivnuts, and whilst I've seen it's possible to buy low profile ones and countersunk ones i'm still concerned that they'll stand out too much from the chassis surface

What does everybody think?

Should I go for welded nuts, or rivnuts, or is there something else I haven't thought of yet?

Thanks

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Old 03-20-2012, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant_8u
I've got to fit some captive nuts to my chassis front crossmember

Should I weld some nuts to the back of the crossmember, or should I use some rivnuts?

I've only just found out about rivnuts, and whilst I've seen it's possible to buy low profile ones and countersunk ones i'm still concerned that they'll stand out too much from the chassis surface

What does everybody think?

Should I go for welded nuts, or rivnuts, or is there something else I haven't thought of yet?

Thanks
I have used a crap load of RIV-NUTs I think they are coolest thing since sliced bread. But I have rethought them. First off, they are aluminum, not the best material to make a nut from (they may have steel ones but the ones I have used are aluminum). So for light stuff, quick mount on sheetmetal that sort of thing I'll still use them. But on a chassis or thicker metal I drill a small pilot hole where the hole is needed. I then weld to the back side of the hole a quarter inch thick piece of metal in the appropriate size, say a 1/2 inch square for a 1/4" bolt. Then using the pilot hole drill it the proper tap size and tap the hole for your bolt. I feel this is the right way to go for anything that is going to carry any weight or vibrate.

I never use nuts, by the time you get good penetration (at least with a mig, maybe a tig would be ok) you are seriously weakening the nut. It makes no sense to me anymore (did plenty of them in the past).

Brian
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:30 PM
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That does make sense

The bit that I'm fitting though is a front grille
It's made of plastic, weighs around 200g, and is held with two bolts

It doesn't have any weight, or need any real strength

The original fitting had two nuts on the back face of the crossmember, but I couldn't see any weld bead anywhere
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:42 PM
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Steel riv-nuts are available & will hold a lot of weight , they should work well for what you're doing. When you buy a package the spec's are on there, I'd imagine it's on the interweb too??Plus , they can be drilled out & replaced , should the need arise..

dave
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:45 PM
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Yeah, just done a little googling on them

But I'm still thinking they'll stand too proud from the surface and stop the brackets from fitting flush
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:12 AM
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I use Riv-Nuts a lot (both Aluminum and Steel), but you are correct-they will stand proud about .060 or so-if you have access to the back of the crossmember, you might consider a "nut-plate"-you can use countersunk rivets to hold them, giving you a flush surface-

look here:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...D=HARDNUTPLATE

Or, you could use weldnuts-

look here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nut-plates/=grbqrb
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