[23 tbucket]

just started the car, while idling in park I pulled the vacum advance and there was no change

[23 tbucket]

even with the idle so high?

[23 tbucket]

even with my idle set so high? cause if I lower the idle at all it will stall I this engine should have no problem idling at 600 or 650

[LATECH]

If you have determined the timing advance...mechanical or vacuum is not the trouble, then move to the carb.
The float could be too low, causing a lean condition at low flow(idle) or an idle circuit problem (plugged passage or wrong intermediate housing gasket), or a base gasket problem (small hidden vacuum leak)

[23 tbucket]

the carb has clear glass plugs to see the fuel level in the bowls there both dead center which is how the manual recommended, both idle screws are set at 1 and half turns out but I've tried severel different positions and it does change the idle speed but makes no difference as far as the shifting goes still have to keep the idle up at 1300 to make it idle at 7 or 8 hundred in drive

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by 23 tbucket

just started the car, while idling in park I pulled the vacum advance and there was no change

The vacuum advance can is either bad, the vacuum line is leaking or not attached to a manifold vacuum source, or the advance plate is stuck.

[23 tbucket]

i will look in to that, but if watch the timing while running and rev it up it advances no problem

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by 23 tbucket

i will look in to that, but if watch the timing while running and rev it up it advances no problem

That tells you that the mechanical advance is working, at least. But remember how the mechanical advance mechanism is separate from the vacuum advance plate? That means the vacuum advance plate could still be sticking or vacuum can bad, etc.

HERE is an article on the HEI. Under Resources are links to exploded views and rebuild articles that you can take a look at.

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by 23 tbucket

just started the car, while idling in park I pulled the vacum advance and there was no change

Get one of those mighty vac hand help vacuum pump... there are like 20 bucks. hook it up to the vacuum advance and see if when you put 15" of vacuum on it you can see the timing change with a timing gun on the damper. If it doesn't change your vacuum advance canister is bad.

[23 tbucket]

all right guys i deffinitly have good vacem gooing to the distributer, but the rod below the vacum canister does not move at all when reved up does this mean somethings bad? if so what?

[4 Jaw Chuck]

You should be able to idle the motor down to 600rpm without load, if not your idle mixture is out.

Adjust until you can get it down.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by 23 tbucket

all right guys i deffinitly have good vacem gooing to the distributer, but the rod below the vacum canister does not move at all when reved up does this mean somethings bad? if so what?

You should see the rod move out briefly when you open the throttle rapidly, then retract when at idle- but w/o a load on the engine it may be difficult to see any movement.

A better way would be to do as suggested above w/the vacuum pump, or simply hook the vacuum advance hose up to a manifold vacuum source. A manifold vacuum source will have vacuum at idle. Plug any vacuum ports not being used while you do this.

If the can is working, the idle speed should increase when the vacuum advance hose is hooked to a manifold vacuum source, then drop down when the hose is removed, and the rod should be seen to move.

If neither things happen- the vacuum can is shot and needs to be replaced. If this is the case, might as well get an adjustable vacuum advance can. Crane and Accel sell them, IIRC Mr. Gasket does also. Should be able to pick one up at a decent parts store that has a performance parts aisle. Any speed shop will carry them, as well as Summit, Jegs, etc.

[23 tbucket]

there is no change at idle if I pull the vacum advance

[Crosley]

did I miss what vehicle we are talking about here? Full body car?

Zoomie haeders tells me a T-bucket?

If you have the OE stall converter in the T-bucket, that is the problem.

T-buckets need minimum 2500 stall. A larger cam will need 3500 or more to keep the engine idle and not need 2 feet on the brake pedal to keep the vehicle at a full stop.

IF there is no timing / carb problems as the memebers here are helping you with

[23 tbucket]

its a fiberglass tbucket, I just left a car show with it and several people I talked to told me there 90% sure its the torque converter so I'm gonna go ahead and order a higher stall converter and give it a shot thanks for all the help