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Old 03-28-2007, 06:02 PM
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car keeps dying...fuel boil in carb?

Hello, I'm new to this forum and a new hot rod owner as well.

Here's my problem: I have a 57 chevy that seems to just all of a sudden die while driving it and then smells like gas. It has happened at both low and higher rpms. It has only done it after I shut it off and then turn it on to drive it again (so the first time I start it and drive it, it seems to go forever). But after shutting it off, it will not restart for 10 minutes or so and will then only go for 20 yards and then out again. For a little more info, when it does run, it can have some hesitation when hitting the gas at times...but boy does the car go! I'm not sure if it's vapor lock from the fuel pump and braided hose being too close to the headers? Or if the performance cam creates too much heat and the carb is boiling the gas? (there is a spacer under the carb already)

Here's some info on my car (not sure what to give, but I guess more is better?):

57 chevy with a 350 by Brown Engineering
700R Overdrive w/2500 stall
Manley ultra lite flat top piston w/float pins
Eagle rods w/ARP bolts
Isky hydraulic roller cam
492 camel hump heads, 1.60/2.02 stainless steel valves, screw in studs & roller rockers
Victor Jr intake w/ Holley 750 double pumper, no choke
headers and dual exhaust
9" Ford posi w/390 gear & driveshaft by Jackson Powertrain

I'll be honest, I'm not sure what all of these items mean, but I wanted to list them for you guys.

Any thoughts on what I need to do or what is wrong? Losing power steering and brakes when it dies can ruin a guys day for sure.

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Old 03-28-2007, 06:29 PM
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can you post pictures of the set up? The fuel line should be coming from the fuel pump up the front of the block. I saw where you said it has a braided fuel line, but how is it routed? What is the engine temp running up to? Gonna be hard to tell you whats going on long distance. But we can try.......... Brian
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:52 PM
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boy, I wish I had a digital camera....I'll try to describe it. When standing in front of the car looking down, the fuel pump is below the alternator just to the left. The fuel line runs underneath the alt and pops up on the right and connects into a solid line that runs straight back to the carb

as for the temp, I think it was 180-190 on the gauge
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:39 AM
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Still having a hard time picturing how the fuel line is routed. I'll just say this it shouldn't be touching the block or alternator and should be at least 3 inches away from the Headers. The engine operating temp sounds right on target. I'm thinking that you may have an internal leak in the carb. I have seen this before. It will crank up and run fine, get where you are going come back out with in just a few min and it just spins over. Basically what is happening is the fuel is leaking in to manifold and flooding the engine. After it has set for a while the fuel has had time to evaporate and it will go again. Check that theory out and see if it leads any where. Brian
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:14 AM
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I am thinking that your engine is over carburetted. A 750 double pumper is a big unit for a 350 small block. It is more suited to a big block setup. I would suggest running a 600-650 vaccuum secondary carb. It will still give you that low down grunt when the secondarys open but will also control the excessive amount of fuel the 750 is pumping into your engine.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:17 AM
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Doc here,

Is it routed like this:



You might check the fuel pump volume/pressure..and the fuel filters as well as the Fuel sock in the tank for obstructions..

Inspect the fuel line for "Air Leaks" , disconnect the tank, and the pump (or Filter, whichever is first in line) and apply vacuum with a hand vacuum pump..it should hold at least a minute , if not look for leaks, kinks or smashed points. Continue forward until you get to the carb.

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Old 03-29-2007, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossco
I am thinking that your engine is over carburetted. A 750 double pumper is a big unit for a 350 small block. It is more suited to a big block setup. I would suggest running a 600-650 vaccuum secondary carb. It will still give you that low down grunt when the secondarys open but will also control the excessive amount of fuel the 750 is pumping into your engine.
If it's jeted properly it will work fine. From what he has described it is a fuel leak down problem. He says he smells raw gas after it is shut off. then it doesn't want to run. I have seen that carb used on the 350 with no problem for years. It wouldn't hurt anything to check the fuel line for suction leakslike Doc Vette said, But I am still leaning toward the carb leaking fuel into the intake after it is shut off. Once he checks a few things maybe we can get a clearer picture Brian
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:45 AM
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for Doc....regarding that image, the braided line on mine actually runs underneath the alternator, then straight up to a solid elbow and line (keeping it away from everything), then straight back to the carb

so you don't think it's boiling, but leaking down into the engine? I'm so new to this, that I'm not really sure how to check if the carb is leaking like that...what's odd to me is that it does it while it's running. That's why I figured it was boiling instead I guess
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:28 AM
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i found my camera! here are some pictures of the area...the hose goes underneath and then attaches to the red elbow, which then goes straight back
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:38 AM
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Doc here,

Looking at the pictures, The hose is too close to the Header, turn the 90 at the pump FORWARD, and route it front, around the pump, THEN up..that will give enough heat clearance.

The Second problem, is the fuel line sits sandwiched between the radiator hose and is actually touching the heater hose plumbing, route the fuel line ABOVE those..

See if that does not cure the problem, it certainly won't hurt anything!

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Old 03-29-2007, 11:46 AM
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I could only fit 5 images in the last one...but here are some images of the entire engine (and one of the car just for fun I guess )
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe57Chevy
It has only done it after I shut it off and then turn it on to drive it again (so the first time I start it and drive it, it seems to go forever). But after shutting it off, it will not restart for 10 minutes or so and will then only go for 20 yards and then out again.
This is why I thought that it might be a leak down problem. And like DOC said the fuel line is way to close to the header and heater hose lines. And if it is dying going down the road for no apparent reason, like DOC said in an earlier post check the fuel supply line for a suction leak. Especially if the original fuel line was used. I had a 69 Camaro that would die for no reason, we finally found that the fuel line was broken/corroded where it goes over the rear end. It was behind a clamp securing it to the frame rail. This one almost drove us crazy (short trip)LOL. Well get the fuel line moved around and see how it does if that doesn't cure the problem let us know we'll go from there. Brian
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Old 03-30-2007, 09:44 AM
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thanks Brian. Today I'm trying to figure out how to reroute the heater hose. And tomorrow I'll tackle the fuel line (thinking of pointing that elbow right off the fuel pump to go forward and away from the headers, instead of up and right towards them)
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:25 AM
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hey guys... here's an update on the symptoms: On Saturday, I warmed up the car on the driveway and then drove the car around a bit, just in the neighborhood (just couldn't help myself ) and this time, it died while driving it before I ever turned it off and restarted. That's the first time that's happened. Usually, the first time I drive it, it goes forever...not sure if that little tidbit helps or not, but thought I'd share.

As for my progress: I didn't get to do as much to the car over the weekend as I had hoped, due to soccer games and you name it, but I did get to reroute the heater hose - now nothing is touching the fuel hose at all.

That's a start. Still need to address the headers by the fuel line and the spacer.
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:17 PM
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Thanks for everything guys! Just to fill everyone in...I did a lot of testing and trying, but here's what seemed to do the trick (well, not sure exactly what did it, or if they all did): a high degree heat wrap on the headers just near the fuel pump and line, a heat shield on the fuel line just where it passes the engine and a 1 1/2" phenolic spacer under the carb. The car seems to run wonderfully now!! knock on wood...the hot weather is coming
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