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Car starts, then dies
I need some advice, 69 Olds, 350 I turn ignition switch, engine turns, starts to run, I release ignition switch and engine dies . What are the most common causes of this ? I've never had any electrical problems so be as simple you would talk to a blonde .
Thanks |
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Most likely has 2 circuits to the coil. One comes from the starter solonoid and supplies a full 12 volts to the coil when starting. The other is a resistance circuit that is on when the car is running.
Turn the key ON and check for voltave at the + side of the coil. There should be 8 to 12 volts there all the time. If not, your resistor circuit is bad. The resistor wire may be open or the ignition switch may have gone bad. |
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Thanks,
What is a resistor circuit ? I do not see any resistor, there is a little silver cylinder attached to the coil . Is that it ? Does anybody knows how to change ignition switch ? It is 69 Cutlass without tilt steering wheel . |
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A lot of that vintage used a special resistor wire from the ign switch to the coil. I don't remember what color they usually were but they are a bit of a funny wire. The insulation is different. Where most of the wires are plastic, this one is usually a soft rubber. You may find it just by feel.
The little silver can a a radio frequency supression capacitor to keep spark noise out of you AM radio. |
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It probably has a coil with an internal resistor. But it doesn't matter until you check at the coil for voltage.
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Thanks guys, I just came from vacation, bought myself a tester and measured voltage betwen coil and battery ground with key on . Nothing there so I was following wires and they both go to starter solenoid trough harness where they are probably spliced. When I pulled on wires I was able to get 12 V reading for a moment and then 5.0, 5.7V but was never able to get 12V again . Tomorrow I will put car on stands so I can open that harness and see if I can see that resistor wire from ignition switch and see if it is weakened or why is giving only 5 V.( I think there should sbe only 9V with key on so point will not burn with 12 V )
If resistor wire is bad, is there a place to buy it, local parts store guys have no idea what I am asking them for. Is it okay to use just regular wires and put in line resistor . Where should it be ? Between ign and + terminal ? Does anyone knows where I can get wiring diagram for 69 Olds Cutlass or similar car ? Manual has nothing on ignition . Thanks, |
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I get most of my manuals and schematics off ebay. You also might try Mitchells's.
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Harness is fried and needs to be replaced, car is 35 years old . I drove ir for 12 years without any problem but it is time to replace some wiring . I have ordered book on rewiring old cars already, just waiting for it to come in. Is it better for me to wire car circuit by circuit or is it better to get a harness ( if it is availlable ) and from who ?
Thanks and happy New Year !!!
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Probably Painless will be able to provide a harness, or possibly Year One. I have always just made my own repairs but a whole new harness is a good idea if you can afford it.
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I think that 69 Oldsmobnile might be a little different from Chevy, I will call them after New Year.
I would preffer to do it by myself so I will learn something about it . I will definitely get rid of those old style glass tube fuses. Do you have any experience as to what fuse box to get, how many circuits and where to place it ? Fuse box on 69 Olds is past brake pedal and very hard to get to it . |
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Year One has parts for many other cars than just Chevy's. I think they have seperate catalogs for the different makes.
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Hot-wire it. Run a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil (opposite of the wire that goes to the distributor). Crank the engine & see if it will stay running. If so, your ignition switch or associated wiring to the coil is bad. If it works, you'll have to disconnect the jumper to turn the engine off. If not, don't forget to disconnect it.
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Jim, If I hotwire it , I must put in that resistor to not burn points ,correct ?
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