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Thread: Which Carb?
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:16 PM
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F-BIRD'88 F-BIRD'88 is offline
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Update. Everything is fine now. I drove the Elky for about 30 minutes and pulled out the dizzy. It slipped out with no issues. It turned out my manifold bolts were really loose, all tightened up and no more engine wobble issues or black smoke. I wound up with 16' initial with 38' total, all in by 3000rpms. I changed to the lightest springs, wow, it really made a difference on the torque. All is good....

Your quote:

A search of your olds posts indicates you ahve had many issues with basic faults like vacuum leaks.
etc etc. No amount of money spent on numbourous new carbs will cure a simple manifold vacuum leak or a simple ignition fault like a bad engine/body ground or low ignition supply voltage etc.
Or simply not giving the cammed up motor the amount of inital timing it needs at idle to burn the fuel correctly at idle.
Lack of idle timing on the comp 286H-10 cam will result in the carbs throttles being too far open at idle .
Won;t matter how many carbs you buy and try.
Start with 24 to 26deg base idle timing. Get the primary and sec throttle positon correct on the carb.

Make sure the advance curve is on the base of the curve at idle. SHould not move untill 1100rpm.

Timing must not drop off when idleing in gear.
Super light advance springs give a inconsistant idle.
You will need a custom 10deg advance bushing for the MSD small cap distributor.
18deg at idle will not be enough.

Ported vacuum will work the best for this one.
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