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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 09:25 PM
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and here are the after pictures









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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2010, 09:28 PM
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on the air valve and choke, that green color is oxidation film after being out of the acid for a few minutes, they came out of the acid in a perfectly clean and polished state. the patina that started forming on them has pretty much halted when i took the pictures it still looks about the same
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2010, 11:05 AM
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Hey BP, I use "PurplePower" you can get it at the parts store or WallyWorld for $4 a gallon. Undiluted this stuff will out perform the $20 carb dip from the parts store, its safer (non-flammable) and you will have the cleanest hands in the shop.
I thought i would give it a try with a $4 gallon and see what happened, I'm SOLD!!! I have used it for everythign from cleaning my engine, my trans, my 15 yo bbq, and I thought about using it on the dog after she find's that good ole smelly stuff she so loves to roll in
It can be used full on stregth or diluted. I used it to clean my 86 454 block and heads......this is the result after a spray of water, a squirt from am old Windex bottle full of PurplePower , and a scrub with a nylon brush, about 15 minutes of waitng ( I hate to wait so it was more like 5 minutes lol) and a second spray of water...here are some after and before pictures, yes the wife has told me I am a** backwards lol
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Last edited by muddi1; 10-28-2010 at 11:13 AM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2010, 11:36 AM
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X2 on the Berryman's carb dip, just be aware there are two types of dip: B-9 w/methylene chloride and B-12 w/mostly acetone and some toluene. I don't know how much longer the "good" stuff's going to be available, but my guess is it will be gone sooner than later.

MSDS INFO:

B-12: http://berrymanproducts.com/Portals/...420C,2421C.pdf

B-9: http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Port...01,%200905.pdf

ALL Berrymans Products:
http://berrymanproducts.com/MSDS.aspx
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2010, 03:52 PM
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cobalt, i was thinking the same thing on that, im surprised i found it at the auto zone around here, i think it was the b9 chem dip but im not positive. i would like to buy a 5 gallon pail of that stuff when i get some extra cash cause like you said, im sure the epa has plans on the drawing board already for removing those types of things from the normal consumer market. i would think you would still be able to get it for industrial or business use but the hassle of doing so would suck to say it simply.

muddi1, i have used purple power with great luck on many things i agree the stuff works quite well to remove grease and other garbage, but honestly, the best thing I've found to remove rust so far is electrolysis. I've used it on entire engines, fully assembled heads, blocks, intake manifolds and other parts. i can do a writeup on it if you guys want but it def works and it works very well. but while i was messing around with the acid last night, i figured out it removes rust off of steel like a torch melts butter and unlike aluminum it doesnt corrode the steel due to the chemical makeup of the acid to my knowledge. take full strength muriatic acid and drop a bolt in it and in literally less then a minute the bolt is actually shiny clean. ill post some pics up of that later as it works so well and is so easy i couldn't believe it myself. i was happy with the acid to clean the aluminum but the one thing i found out is that the more you dilute it, the longer it takes to clean the metal, but the less black oxide you get on the aluminum. if you use full strength quick dips it cleans them very fast but will easy discolor the part whereas if you let it soak in a weak solution it will clean it very well without the dis-colorization problems. i can do a write up on how i did it and what precautions need to be taken to assure you don't wind up with a puddle of boiling black liquid instead of a clean carb if you guys are interested also. i figure there's some helpful info for the masses in this stuff
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:07 AM
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i would try tntrustremover.com non toxic, you can pour it down the drain when done will not hurt rubber,gaskets or other items look at ir for yourself

good luck
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2010, 04:02 PM
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Man you got that carb looking good. Just be sure to get into every little hole and make sure they are clean. Nice job so far i hope it purrs like a kitten.


Cole
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2010, 04:15 PM
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thanks man only problem im having is that now the metal is exposed to air so its oxidizing really fast. im working on getting some battery acid and making some copper sulfide so i can try electroplating the carb body in copper to stop the oxidation. idk if it would really work or not but im willing to give it a try i really dont have much to lose since i was gonna throw it away anyway ha
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:48 AM
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The use of acid will actually promote oxidation in a big way. It can be stopped with soda water. If you want your ferrous metal parts to resemble gun blueing then try boiling them in water after exposure to acid. This is actually a realy old blueing tecnique called rust blueing. Manufacturers who erect steel structures underwater (bridges and such) are rediscovering this old method and finding that it is far more effective than any coating to protect steel from the elements.


Muratic is wicked stuff.. Keep it away from kids.

Rather than messing with more acid I would suggest stopping the oxidation with a strong soda water soloution and then remove any residue with steel wool, then you could use some carb-renew and have a great looking carb.

One of the trickyiest things to do with rust blueing is to get an even consistant looking coating. Everything about the metal must be perfect, no oils (fingerprints etc.) even minute variations in the metal itself will stand out like a sore thumb. I expect you will find electroplating to be very much the same. You can get a coating but chances are it will look like crap.

Last edited by 65smallblock; 10-31-2010 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddi1
and I thought about using it on the dog after she find's that good ole smelly stuff she so loves to roll in l

Please do not do that to your dog.. Anything that effective at cleaning parts cannot be good for bare skin. If you must, then I would suggest giving yourself a bath in it first to see how it works out..
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:47 PM
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65smallblock, do you by chance have any links or explanation on the soda water technique? anything i can do to stop this fricken oxidation would be a godsend. i cant say ive heard of rust bluing before... how does it actually work? any info on this process too work be greatly appreciated cause the carb is clean as a whistle but its oxidizing like all heck so if i can stop that oxidation then ill have a working carb for sure. thanks for any info in advance
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:08 PM
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you can try soda blasting on the carb if its not too far gone already. you can make a primitaive siphon fed blaster with an air nozzle and piece of vinyl tubing. Its not the best, but its cheap and with enough patience it can get the job done. You can buy a big box of baking soda from Costco or Sams for like $5. I'd lay down a sheet of plastic before you blast so you can recollect some of the soda and reuse it.
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:10 PM
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i have a cheapo sand blasting gun that will work fine for it. so im guessing i soda blast it then boil it in water and that will stop the oxidation?
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:53 PM
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soda blast it, then rinse with some water then take your air gun and blow each and every passage very thoroughly.

It'll never be good as new, but it'll be decent. If you really want to dress it up I'd paint it black and use some new brass screws.
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bprumos
65smallblock, do you by chance have any links or explanation on the soda water technique? anything i can do to stop this fricken oxidation would be a godsend. i cant say ive heard of rust bluing before... how does it actually work? any info on this process too work be greatly appreciated cause the carb is clean as a whistle but its oxidizing like all heck so if i can stop that oxidation then ill have a working carb for sure. thanks for any info in advance

Its all about the acid. Acid "promotes" oxidation in a big way, that is what you are seeing. You can take a tablespoon of baking soda, put it in 1/2 cup of water and pour it onto a car battery post and it will bubble and fizz like crazy. The soda water nutralizes/kills the acid.

Rust blueing is really quite simple. First the metal must be squeaky clean, even from fingerprints. Then it is covered in a "salts" soloution which consists mainly of acid and then placed in a cabinet deliberatly warm and humid to literaly rust. Bluing "IS" oxidation. Then the metal is removed, boiled in water,carded with steel wool, and then the process is repeated until the color and consistancy is right. After boiling the oxidation comes out black, it changes the chemical composition of the rust.

What you want to do with your carb is first neutralize the acid that is eating away at your metal. simply mix up a glass of soda water like you are going to drink it for acid indegestion and then cover every inch of metal that was exposed to acid. You may not see any bubbling like the batt post scenario, but it will be going to work! Then the acid will be dead and you can clean it up with wire wheels, steel wool, sandpaper or whatever. The acid will leave an ugly taint if you dont. The simplest thing would be to spray on some carb renew.

Last edited by 65smallblock; 11-04-2010 at 08:51 AM.
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