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Carb rebuild - won't start now. Please help?

11K views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  83camaro2.8 
#1 ·
Ok, I have a rochester 2se carb in an 85 chevy s-10 (2.8L v6).
I am getting GAS fouling now.

It was way overdue for a rebuild (gum and varnish from a few years sitting around before rescue). Got the correct rebuild kit.

It has been running great after I did the valve seals, new tranny pan gasket, and thermostat.
Now I went to tackle the carb rebuild.

All went pretty smoothly. Took it apart and soaked all metal parts in Berrymans chem dip overnight.
Toothbrushed it the next day, and compressed air blew out every orifice. Changed all gaskets, changed the float seat and needle, spring with the little metal BB and cap (forgot it's name). Linkage is back on same as it was before.
Got a new EFE insulator for $90.00 (what the carb sits on).

I took pics of the carb before removal and made a sketch of vac lines. So I'm pretty dang sure I have that connected as it was before.

Problem is, i can't get it to fire up now without it fuel fouling plugs.

The float is ok., no holes and is floating, adjusted as per spec in the rebuild kit (plus it's the same float just the rebuild kits new needle and seat. havn't tried bending the float up or down as I'm not sure which way to do that first.

As for the main jet needle\pin in the center of the carb (which goes up and down in the main jet).
Starting-wise, I got a little different results when I adjusted it. **It's adjustable by turning the other needle which is threaded and moves the main jet needle up and down. So when you turn that either way , the needle in the main jet sits higher or lower depending on which way you turn it.

What height should the needle sit in the main jet? I got it to start and run (although VERY poorly) before when I had it sitting lower in the man jet - but this is far from where it was before...and it ran horribly and had to be given gas to run (woudn't idle).
With it adjusted to where it was BEFORE the rebuild, it won't start...ever. Tries here and there, but no go.
With it sitting lower, while flooring the pedal...I got the chug-chug......chug-chug-chug...and it ramped up all the way to running if I gave it constant gas over some time (although poorly because by that time some sparks were obviously fouled out). Take the the gas pedal off and it chugged back and then died.

I did NOT try adjusting the idle screw yet.

I'm really enjoying repairing these things myself - but this ones beating me up BIG TIME. I took it slowly and carefully and I still can't beat this.
Tried starting fluid in the top of carb with no result.

Any help please? So close yet so far.

thanks,
Joe
 
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#3 ·
whoa, you actually found something for this carb.
Thanks.
Not sure how this will help, but seriously, thanks.

Hey - the site mentions using "drill bits" as an alternative to a choke angle guage. How would this work?

So, I'm still stuck in the water here. Can anybody help with this final - yet big- problem?

thanks
JD
 
#4 ·
I've used drill bits as a "gauge" when trying to measure or set something to a small diameter or measurement.

For instance on the choke. If it calls for the choke to be open 3/32" it's pretty tough to measure that with a rule or tape. So you would make an adjustment until the 3/32 drill bit just fit in the space. Not too tight and not too loose.
 
#5 ·
got it running !!! Idles poorly...why? BECAUSE I'M RUNNING VERY RICH (black smoke from tailpipe).
You guys were right, but i couldn't be sure untill I did this carb overhaul.

No wonder I was eating so much fuel. I knew the truck isn't the most economical, but the gas munching was noticeably bad.
Now the carb is cleaned out and now it's finally showing this too rich of mixture - correct? I bet my plugs are sooty black as well.

So....
Now I have to take off the carb and CAREFULLY get that plug out....Unless you know of a trick to removing the fac set plug on a roch 2se so I can get to the screw with the carb on (hate to have to take it off again).

Now, with the carb back on, which way do I turn the screw to lean it out a little? clockwise? Or counter clock wise?
I'm guessing counter clockwise but I want to be sure.

Is there anything else I should check before having to do this? Not sure if it applies to this truck, but the EGR system (don't know what to check in there - do you)?

thanks,
Joe :)
 
#6 · (Edited)
New update - not running as rich and didn't adjust the mixture screw. Something weird must have gone on there for a bit.

Bammmm ! Running right for this first drive.

This carb (2se) REALLY doesn't want you touching that mixture screw. What I thought was a cap extended WAAAAAY to far to be something that could\should be removed. The E2se though has a short cap I think..so you can pop that one off easier. This 2se wanted metal taken off almost to the base - so i stopped and thought...something else must be wrong here.
I re-tackled adjusting the main jet needle height a bit. That "might" have been the hold up....might not.

After several piss poor fireups (some cyls weren't firing due to previous bad test starts, etc) and tests, it finally fired up and sounded and felt "right".
I'm GUESSING the first time I thought it was done (but was running rich) might have been because a spark was fouled and not firing at all.

Idled high when it warmed so I brought it down to idle at 1000-1100 in park, 850-900 in drive (is this still too high?

Took a LOOOOOONG trip around the city after filling up $8.00 bucks or so of gas.
Whoa! Way better gas mileage - this carb rebuild was due and worth it (so far that is...it's only day one). I barely had to press the gas pedal to get up and movin' (less gas munching). Has more power (or really, the correct power it should have for a 2.8L v6).

thanks for all the help
 
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