Carburated vortec thermostat bypass + hot water passage? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:04 AM
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Carburated vortec thermostat bypass + hot water passage?

I'm a new to this forum and this is my first American V8 project. So please I bare with me. I would like to get some input from you guys on how I was planning on routing my thermostat bypass / hot water cross over passage.
Here's a pic of the intake I'm using...



Do you guys figure this will work?

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Old 11-02-2010, 03:00 AM
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You need some way (Y valve) to bypass the water under the carb for when the air is warm (summer)

You need the carb heat in the (Saskatchewan) winter, but not in the summer.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:00 AM
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Where is the the other hose from the heater going to attach?
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62
Where is the the other hose from the heater going to attach?
Saw this on 67-72 forum. Hose "out" from heater core connects to passenger side Radiator tank. My 71-C10 is the same.

You could use a small on/off valve between the Tee fitting & Intake to control flow. As F-bird88 mentioned.
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:09 PM
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Honestly, I just plugged the two fittings beside the carb, The fitting on the very front right of the intake and used a TBI water pump, So i just have one hose going into the fitting on the front left on the intake, to the heater, and a hose from heater to the rad.

Have already driven the truck at -2C, no problems at all.

And since a picture is worth a thousand words.

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Old 11-02-2010, 09:25 PM
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Blocking off the hot water passage isn't an option for me. I bought this manifold specifically for the hot water passage. I will be driving this vehicle through the winter and believe me it gets stupid cold up here. I agree with the installing a Y valve for the summer but figured I'd deal with that next summer.

So do you guys figure the way I have this plumbed in the photo will work properly?
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:33 PM
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Didnt realize you were gonna drive it year round, i think the way you have it routed should work.
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:04 PM
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Yeah, should work fine like it's drawn out.
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:06 PM
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Slight change of plans......today I was going to order the extra AN fittings to finish up the plumbing as pictured above. The sales guy suggested I use a Y-fitting instead (as illustrated in the new pic) to avoid the clutter the t-fitting + twist lock hose ends will end up creating on top of the manifold. I think this should work the same as the original routing I had planned and be a much cleaner looking. What do you guys figure?

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Old 11-04-2010, 12:36 AM
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That's not gonna work. The flows not right.


If you go from the front Manifold port to passenger side port at Carb, then from driver side Carb port to Heater core, then from heater core to passenger side Rad tank it will work. Hose to pump can be deleted but, you wouldn't be able to use a cutoff to Carb for summer unless you didn't need heat.
Maybe that made sense.

Last edited by SSedan64; 11-04-2010 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:46 AM
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Would need to drill a few small holes in the Thermostat for bypass if you cut flow for summer driving.
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Old 11-04-2010, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
That's not gonna work. The flows not right.


If you go from the front Manifold port to passenger side port at Carb, then from driver side Carb port to Heater core, then from heater core to passenger side Rad tank it will work. Hose to pump can be deleted but, you wouldn't be able to use a cutoff to Carb for summer unless you didn't need heat.
Maybe that made sense.
Maybe I'm not understanding how the T-stat bypass works? The instructions that came with the GMPP intake make note that its imperative that you run a line from the water pump to under the t-stat housing because Vortec engines don't have a t-stat bypass. Which direction does the coolant flow from the port on top of the water pump? I should probably mention that I have two heater cores plumbed in my vehicle (Grumman Step van), one at the back and one at the front. Not sure if this matters or not?

Last edited by flybowtie; 11-04-2010 at 01:25 AM.
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:02 PM
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Okay I think I finally got my head around this. I'm going to put the temp sensor in the drivers side head instead of the intake manifold. This will allow me to route the coolant lines as illustrated in the new pic. This should work better?
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:32 AM
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That should work fine. Ports on Pump are always in/suction.
You're correct the Vortec blocks don't have the small bypass hole where the Pump mounts on passenger side. You can see it in this Pic, bottom hole is the bypass on Non-Vortec block>> http://www.chevytech.info/2c42o9.html just above & left of "A".
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:21 AM
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i don't think the carb heat is really necessary. I've driven my small block (not vortec heads) is way colder than -2c air temps with no issues. the only problem you MIGHT run into.. is carb icing.. typically only when it's raining and temps are near freezing. (air rushing thru the barely open throttles will make the metal cold enough for ice to form on)

I think you would be better to use a Thermostatic air cleaner housing and an exhaust stove.

Video of my engine starting and running after soaking overnight at 13F (-10c) and starting early in the morning at 21F.. no carb heat, open element air cleaner even.
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