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Carburetor Coating

14K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  1BAD80 
#1 ·
I am trying to find some way to coat my carburetor so that it looks like new, or better yet, better that new. Do any of you know of a product that will last other than powder coating. I am now willing to spend that much. I just hate putting together a brand new engine with an ugly *** used looking carb. Any ideas. I found some stuff on the web, but it was $60 for a quart.

Chris
 
#2 ·
Alodize it.

Alodine 1200 is a brown powder used to create a conversion coating on aluminum to assist in the adhesion of any coating likely to be applied on aluminum. Although your carb is mostly zinc if it has a light beadblasting to remove the thin oxide layer the Alodine will etch and passivate the surface and leave a nice golden bronze hue to your casting.

Alodine 1200 must be mixed with sulphuric acid and water to work properly and should be easy to find if there is a aircraft supply store near you, all aluminum aircraft repairs must be retreated with Alodine to prevent corrosion and assist paint adhesion.

You could paint it with Imron too? It still would be advisable to Alodize it first before paint. ;)
 
#3 ·
Eastwood sells spray bomb paint that they claim is the proper new carb gold color. Supposed to be fuel proof. Can't get much cheaper than that.

<a href="http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/Department.asp?SKW=TSC10&UID=2003031401320664&Dep_Key1=spc&Cat=Specialty+Coatings&SubCat=Fuel+System" target="_blank">http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/Department.asp?SKW=TSC10&UID=2003031401320664&Dep_Key1=spc&Cat=Specialty+Coatings&SubCat=Fuel+System</a>
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys. The eastwood stuff is what i was thinking of, but the alodine has my attention peaked. It might be more resiliant than a paint. Any idea who on the web might sell the stuff? I suppose I can do a search and see if I come up with anything.

Thanks,

Chris
 
#5 ·
Hi Chris, I went with Holly on my carb, the cost of dichromating was not bad around $45. all together.It would give you a chance to grind and reflow the card before you send it to them It comes out real nice, on my 406 motor pic.
Holley Custom Speed Shop
509 Industrial Drive, Springfield, TN 37172
1-888-HOLLEY-5 (1-888-465-5395)
 
#6 ·
Here's some more info Turbo;

<a href="http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/Inorganic.htm" target="_blank">http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/Inorganic.htm</a>

A good description and how-to here;

<a href="http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/alodine.htm" target="_blank">http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/alodine.htm</a>

In my experience varying the ratio of sulphuric acid to water will hasten the procedure but lead to a more brown coating as opposed to goldish. I recommend a light beadblasting and preblast degrease with brake cleaner before attempting this, any residue on the part will cause the coloring to come out poorly, dipping and brushing at the same time leads to the best results. Rinse and blow dry immediately after dipping and you can avoid water spots ruining your nice golden "tan". ;)
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all the info guys. I think I will do some research on price for the alodine. I am always interested in trying or learning somthing new.

It it bombs, I will give Holley a call and see if they might could recoat it.

Thanks again for the info,

Chris
 
#8 ·
I forgot one thing Chris, since you have it apart you mite want to gasket match the body to the base plate. Usually there is a mismatch, a flapper wheel works good on the body, or you mite need to chamfer the base plate. Also deburr any holes in the body and metering plates. A good mill file works good for flatness for both. Since you have the turbo this will help the flow.
George
 
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