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Old 02-24-2013, 06:51 PM
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Carburetor tips and tricks thread.

I am a bodyman, not a mechanic, let's get that straight. My brother is a mechanic and I have never had to learn a thing about the motor because he was always there to do that for me. I did his body work and paint, he did my motor stuff. But he is now over 100 miles away from me so I have learned a lot. Besides driving fuel injected late model cars for the last number of years, and me not knowing much to begin with I have been stuck. My Rambler has been running kinda funky and not knowing where to start but the basics I gave him a call to try to cut thru the crap.
It was "bucking" for lack of a better term. It ran great, started, idled, revved up good, if I drove it hard it worked fine. But if I was just cruising shifting thru with a light throttle it would buck terribly like the ignition was breaking down or it was running real lean.

It sounded like a dirty needle and seat or water or junk in the float bowl to him. He told me to clamp off the fuel hose and run the carb dry, start it back up and the fuel rushing in will often clean stuff out. And, or, remove the air cleaner and run the motor up to a high idle and then put a rag over the carb down tight choking it off of air until it almost dies, then remove the rag and get it running smooth again, and again raise the idle up and do it again. What this is doing is sucking junk out of the bowl, clearing the bowl out of everything.

I did this and WHAM problem gone, that easy, five minutes tops and problem gone. It's the type of thing he would have done for me and I didn't even know what he did, or if it was in front of my I would just forget because I didn't need to remember it.

What tips and tricks do you guys have that we can learn from?

Brian

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Old 02-25-2013, 06:43 AM
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carb stuff

u only temporally solved the problem.. if u had a plug and u cleaned it out.. where did the stuff go??? plugging the jets next.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:48 AM
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Into the intake is my understanding.

Brian
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:23 PM
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You only put a bandaid on it... The right way to do a carb is to take it down and soak it, Put in a new kit..Your done..
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:42 PM
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I talked to him on the phone earlier and he confirmed yes it could only be a bandaid. Sometimes the junk gets sucked out other times I just knocks it loose and it stays in the bowl waiting to be caught again later. We will see, I'm going to give it a go. The cool thing is it gives you plenty of warning so you can limp home to fix it.

Brian
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:30 PM
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Using a rag to choke the engine down like you described will sometimes remove junk that's plugging the air bleeds. If that's the case, the "fix" is permanent, but could be pointing to unfiltered air somehow reaching the carb, or a dirty filter (I know that's not your particular problem).

I would follow this up by using carb cleaner spray to get rid of the rest of the deposits inside the carb air horn/throttle bore- if there are any. This can sometimes dirty up the plugs, but a light cleaning will take care of that if need be.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:32 PM
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I'll do that Cobalt, thanks.

Brian
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:21 AM
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When I work on carbs I get a long bolt and chuck it in my vise and mount one corner of the carb to the bolt. One nut and washer under and a wingnut on top holds the carb nicely and allows it to swivel if needed. A pic for you.
In this pic I used a valve cover tall hold down bolt.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:37 AM
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I'm sure everybody knows this but-----Always pre-start all of the screws in each assembly before tightening and always tighten in a cross pattern. Less chance of cross threading and or stripping.

BB
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:41 AM
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You know BB I have been doing that for years on just about anything I work on. I learned it on wheels and just kept doing it on everything. But it is not something everyone does so very good tip.
I just put my Thermoquad together last night for the Gran Sport and carefully did just that.

Brian
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWENUTS View Post
When I work on carbs I get a long bolt and chuck it in my vise and mount one corner of the carb to the bolt. One nut and washer under and a wingnut on top holds the carb nicely and allows it to swivel if needed. A pic for you.
In this pic I used a valve cover tall hold down bolt.
That sure looks like a good way to break a mounting tab off the carb base.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:22 AM
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I use four long threaded rods on a wood base.
Make them tall enough to flip the carb over.

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Old 02-26-2013, 01:37 PM
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That sure looks like a good way to break a mounting tab off the carb base.
I suppose so but it's never been a problem!
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
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That sure looks like a good way to break a mounting tab off the carb base.
Same thing I was thinking...
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:14 PM
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Actually I've rebuilt a lot of carburetors using a single bolt in a vice to support it with no problems. What ever it would take to brake off a lug from the base would probably do more damage to the rest of the carb in the process of braking off the lug. I went and bought a adjustable carb stand for rebuilds mainly because when I used the one bolt vice method what ever I dropped disappeared some place on the floor or under a bench or wherever. Using a stand on top of a clean shop rag is a much better solution. Things don't bounce as much on a soft surface.

BB
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