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carpet binding

16K views 23 replies 6 participants last post by  esty 
#1 ·
I have been using an older kenmore machine with just a presser foot for learning how to do auto seat covers and such. I just finshed my first set of covers and they turned out suprisingly well. My problem is, however, when trying to bind carpet the binding is constantly walking off the edge of the carpet. If I sew it to the top of the carpet first then folding it underneath and sew in the ditch it is fine. When I try to sew to the bottom first and then through the top so I can see the stitching is when the problem occurs. Is this a result of a presser foot or just bad technique? I know I asked this question a while back but can anybody recomend a make and model of walking foot machine that wont bankrupt me. I see several of them online, Craigslist etc. but really dont know what is desirable and reliable as opposed to a pain in the ***.
 
#2 ·
Back in the days when I was binding carpet...Man that has been a while..I sewed the binding to the top in the upside down position and then folded the binding over the edge of the carpet and glued the binding on the back side..Hope this makes some sense..no stitches show that way..

that was back in the day when I was installing carpet and we would take all our rems and roll ends and make area rugs to sell..


Sam
 
#4 · (Edited)
If you're sewing the binding to the carpet and then sewing in the ditch with your presser foot, it's probably not the machine or the foot. You're trying to sew the binding on and have the stitches show on the top, right? When I do that, I just fold the binding over the edge and sew both sides at once, but that's just my personal preference.

As far as a sewing machine, Singers and Consews are Chevies, Jukis are Buicks, and Pfaffs are Cadillacs. Singer 111W is the machine most companies copied. The older Consew 206 and 226 machines are real good as is the Pfaff 1245. If you find one of these used for $800 to $1000 you have found a good price.
 
#6 ·
After wanting to get into doing my own upholstery work my whole life I finally took the first step. I bought a Consew 206rb-2 today. These machines can be had for a lot less than mentioned above if you are patient and really watch the classifieds. I got my machine in very good condition for a few hundred less than mentioned above.

My first project is carpet binding. I don't have a lot of sewing experience just yet. So, my approach was going to be to have a blind stitch attaching the binding to the carpet and then wrap it around the edge and glue to the backing of the carpet.
 
#7 ·
When I said $800 to $1000, I meant from a dealer who has gone over the machine and it is in perfect running condition. I know they can be found for much less from a private party, or if you're only buying the head without the table and motor. Now is a perfect time to buy......everyone is trying to unload excess inventory.
 
#8 ·
This is my 1st post in this forum but I read the interior section daily….about 4 months ago I bought a cheap Brother LX-3125 sewing machine at walmart for under $70.00 & started making carpet kits for BMW 2002’s…so far I’ve made, sold & ship’d 136 sets….

I don’t have any problems sewing with my cheap machine…I don’t have a walking foot or any other attachments…I buy marine vinyl at the local fabric store and generally find everything I need in the remnants section for $3.00 a yard…I cut it into strips, use a small bead of hot glue to fasten it upside down to the face of the carpet so it doesn’t move when I’m sewing it then sew it to the carpet…


Then I fold the vinyl over the edge of the carpet and hot glue it to the back of the carpet…I was concerned about the glue releasing but I made a set for myself this way over a year ago and have not had any problems…one would have to tear the carpet and vinyl in order to separate the two materials










Just thought I’d share
 
#9 ·
They look very nice, but I have a suggestion for you. On the floor mats, you have to sew completely around the entire perimeter. It would look more professional to seam it than to overlap it. Just leave 4 or 5 inches of binding loose when you start, and when you near the end, overlap the pieces of binding 1 inch, sew a 1/2" seam, and then finish binding the carpet. Check out this thread, and you'll see what I mean: CLICK HERE
 
#10 ·
DanTwoLakes said:
They look very nice, but I have a suggestion for you. On the floor mats, you have to sew completely around the entire perimeter. It would look more professional to seam it than to overlap it. Just leave 4 or 5 inches of binding loose when you start, and when you near the end, overlap the pieces of binding 1 inch, sew a 1/2" seam, and then finish binding the carpet. Check out this thread, and you'll see what I mean: CLICK HERE
i patterned these from 3 other retailers sets and none are bound on all edges...the front floor pieces that are not bound on the end get covered by the front of the rear piece and that's under the seat...

other 'naked' edges are covered with the car's existing pinch welt trim and rocker trim when installed...even the original sets installed at the factory in the 60's & 70's wasn't trim'd on all edges
 
#11 ·
I wasn't talking about going all the way around on all the pieces. I realize that all those bare edges are hidden after they are installed. I was only talking about the two pieces that you already are going completely around. My suggestion is to seam the ends of the binding of those two pieces instead of overlapping the binding, that's all.
 
#12 ·
DanTwoLakes said:
My suggestion is to seam the ends of the binding of those two pieces instead of overlapping the binding, that's all.
i misunderstood the 1st post...i understand now...i could but i've never had any complaints and the area on the 2 rear pieces that is overlap'd also is under the seat so any fancy stitching would be lost anyway..

if i ever make mats that show completely, that's how i would do it or try to do it

thanks for the feedback
 
#13 ·
The ditch method I can do ok. When topstitching I am continually walking right off the edge or bunching up the binding under the foot resulting in a crease or pucker. I have tried sewing both sides at once as well as stitching it to the back then topstitching, Any ideas for me to try?
 
#14 ·
You really can't do the topstitch method very well if you're trying to do it on carpet with any kind of a nap to it. The carpet needs to be pretty flat to do it that way. The only way to get it to look decent would be to trim the carpet down low around the edge of the carpet.
 
#16 ·
I actually figured out that I can get the topstitch look buy using the ditch method and sewing about 1/8 to 1/4 in inside the ditch. My big challenge is getting the corners to lay flat. For whatever reason i am either stretching the vinyl or not leaving slack. Any tips?
 
#17 ·
There isn't any magic trick to doing it, it's more practice than anything, but you need to be making relief cuts on the part of the binding that goes underneath when you go around a corner or an inside curve. Also, you just want the vinyl to lay down, you don't want it to stretch very much at all.
 
#18 ·
Apparently Im sytretching the binding a bit. I start with a 2 foot peice of carpet and a 2 foot peice of binding and end up with an extra 1/2 or 3/4 inch of binding after they are sewed together. Now that I am aware of this I will attempt to not have that happen. I guess this is the practice you speak of...........Steve
 
#21 ·
Right below the "reply to thread" box is another box called "additional options" go to the "attach files" section and click on "manage attachments" this will open up an area that allows you to post 5 pictures. Click on "browse" and you will be able to go to your files on your computer and choose a picture.

These pictures must be re-sized to less than 300KB, or they won't upload. You must re-size the pictures with whatever software came with your camera before you try to upload them.

You can also download your pictures to places like Photobucket and insert pictures directly into a message using the link icon at the top of the message box.
 
#22 ·
esty said:
This is my 1st post in this forum but I read the interior section daily….about 4 months ago I bought a cheap Brother LX-3125 sewing machine at walmart for under $70.00 & started making carpet kits for BMW 2002’s…so far I’ve made, sold & ship’d 136 sets….

I don’t have any problems sewing with my cheap machine…I don’t have a walking foot or any other attachments…I buy marine vinyl at the local fabric store and generally find everything I need in the remnants section for $3.00 a yard…I cut it into strips, use a small bead of hot glue to fasten it upside down to the face of the carpet so it doesn’t move when I’m sewing it then sew it to the carpet…


Then I fold the vinyl over the edge of the carpet and hot glue it to the back of the carpet…I was concerned about the glue releasing but I made a set for myself this way over a year ago and have not had any problems…one would have to tear the carpet and vinyl in order to separate the two materials










Just thought I’d share
I'm getting ready to try some carpet binding myself.What size thread and needle did you use on these? They look great
 
#23 ·
You can use a size 18 to 24 needle and size 69 to size 138 thread. I prefer size 22 needle and size 92 polyester thread, but those are just personal preferences.
 
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