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Old 06-28-2014, 05:27 PM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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Cars shuts off after driving 10 miles...

'56 Chevy Wagon. 350 sbc, starts and runs fine. AAW wiring harness. Previous installer with ZERO talent for doing wiring...
Started out for a car show this morning. Got about 10 miles and the car shuts off. Dead, nothing. No fuel pump, nothing.
Called AAA (again) and had it roll backed home. Push it in the garage and, just for grins, I hit the key... FIRES RIGHT UP!
So, I know I have a bad connection some where that is getting hot... Tomorrow I will be getting under the car to check the solenoid and ground connections. Any suggestions? I am to the point where I am going to rebuild the entire start and charging harnesses.
This is what I found last week while chasing gremlins.

Cutting it apart found this.

So this is what I am dealing with. I figure the only way to make this right is to redo everything.
Mark

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Old 06-28-2014, 07:13 PM
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The red wire is probably the main accessory wire that feeds the fuse block. The (melted) connector is to small to handle the amp load of the main wire.

The purple wire is probably the start wire which is only used for a short time.

Cut out the connector and splice the wires together. See if that fixes it. Run the car with all the electrical loads on and see what gets hot.
A permanent fix would be to replace the red wire with #8 wire.

vicrod
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:56 PM
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The crimp on that connector is a major issue. This is what can be called thermal runaway. Circuit has a bad connection in your case a bad crimp. The circuit gets hot causing increased load due to more resistance the hotter it gets.

This is a major problem because this is how fires start. One good reason to replace all the old wire with new crosslink wire that will not melt and start a fire. One good thing is the wire is relatively inexpensive. Most new wiring harnesses are made with this type of wire also.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Cross!Link-Wire/p_804928
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:55 AM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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Thanks guys!
Vicrod,
I did exactly as you suggested with the bad connector last Thursday and you are correct on the wire labels. I haven't dug into harness yet this morning but I will report my findings. The wire is good wire, it is part of an AAW harness. You can see in my pics, as hot as that connection got, the wire didn't melt on either side of it.
Well, I have my work cut out for me today. I'll take pics of what I find.
Mark
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:02 PM
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Those are packhard type 56 connectors, avail on ebay or local at NAPA. They require a special crimper...... but I found that the heavy duty crimpers, avail at Home Depot, work very well. You have to use both the un-insulated and then the insulated portion of the crimpers to get a good crimp. I messed up two or three before I got the technique down. Basically strip the wire insulation far enough so the bare wire reaches the actual connector portion, use the un-insulated jaws to start the little tabs curling (the tabs point towards the half circle of the crimpers) use the cutter portion of the crimpers to further shape the tabs inward towards the bare wire, then back to the un-insulated and crimp hard. You will probably flatten out the crimp (a little flat is ok but a lot will ruin it) then place the flattened ends into the insulated jaws and (one flattened point towards each side of the insulated jaws) Crimp just enough that it rolls the flattened point into a nice tight crimp (again not to hard). All of my crimps are done this way and I have yet to have one fail.

Terminal Crimping and Stripping Combination Tool in Black-KP1022D at The Home Depot
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2014, 05:21 PM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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Thanks EOD Guy,
I have a selection of replacement Packard 56 connectors. That is what I used to replace the burnt out three way. I also have the correct crimper for the Molex style terminals. No issues there. That work was done last week.
Checking my connections this morning found nothing amiss with those repairs.
I dug into the battery cables though. Both cables are #2 heavy duty cables so I think they are heavy enough. The hot lead down to the starter is only two feet long and both connections look good. The starter connection is tight and the terminal is tight on the cable.
Looking over the grounds I saw the negative terminal on the battery ran down to one of the bolts on the trans. There was a 12ga pigtail with a butt splice leading to a bolt on the firewall for a body ground. I found no chassis or dedicated engine grounds.
I took the neg. grd. off the trans and ran it too an empty bolt boss on the water pump.
I drilled and tapped a hole for a 5/16th bolt in the top of the frame rail and built new ground cables for the battery and body connections. I used 1/0 cable for the battery to frame, 4ga from the frame to the body and the #2 cable from the frame to the water pump. Should help with grounding everything. Hooked everything back up and the car fired right up. I quit for the day after I yanked all of the NSS and B/U light wires off the trans switch. I am trying to get the ignition switch out but the lock cylinder is fighting me. I will probably end up destroying it to get the switch out. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
Mark
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:57 PM
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Is there a small hole in the face of the ign switch?
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:02 PM
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For safety on my Camaro, I ran everything but the pos battery cable to the starter, thru a 70 circuit breaker... works great and allows me to kill all elec when working on it
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:38 PM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
Is there a small hole in the face of the ign switch?
Yea, I have "a" key. But I don't think it is the right one. It doesn't allow the switch to go to the "lock" position so I can depress the release button. The car starts without the key because the ignition isn't locked... I just ordered a new lock cylinder from C.A.R.S. I'll have to destroy this one to get it out....
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:25 PM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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Okay, I've been busy... Rewired the whole front of the car and made a lot of changes.
The only issue I have is the turn signal indicators in the dash. I pulled the cluster to replace a dead LED for the left turn signal. I couldn't find the exact same LED so I picked up two at Radio Shack. I replaced both turn signal indicators and now they blink opposite. Right indicator blinks for left turn and vice-versa...
The ONLY difference I can see is in the LED's. The ones I replaced had no resistors. The ones I just put in do.
They are wired to the correct leads... Left to left, right to right.
I wired the input to the red lead and the ground is wired to the side with the resistor.
Any ideas?
Mark
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:18 PM
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Sorry but you should use the RIGHT tool for the job when you fix it...It take this type of crimper to do it the way it should be done...DON'T USE A REGULAR CRIMPER....

The wrong crimper is most likely why it failed..Some people don't buy the right tools for the job..

Here is the right tool.. If your using this type...







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Old 07-03-2014, 09:24 PM
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Have you tied putting the original style bulbs back in to see if that makes a difference?

Usually the only problem with leds is they won't work if they are wired backwards and all you have to do is switch + and - leads.
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:57 PM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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Thanks N.I.,
I do have the right crimpers and I do use them. This is one of the terminals I just installed today.


As far as the backwards LED's goes, would be possible the ground is back feeding to the wrong LED because I have the resistor on the wrong side? Both LED's are grounded to the same spot in the cluster and being that they are wired backwards the power from the left T/S is firing up the Right side blinker and vice-versa. I'll re-wire them with the resistors on the input side... Thanks Guys!.
64SS327,
Just saw your post. You were writing while I was. That's pretty much what I just figured out. I have them in backwards and they are firing up using the other side of the "circuit" (through the ground leads) to fire off the opposite LED...
My question to LED manufacturers is WHY do you put the resistor in the Black lead and have a red lead to represent ground? In my world Blk is Grd and Red is Pos... That's how I wired them without really paying attention to the details. My bad. I learned a lesson today.
Mark

Last edited by astroracer; 07-03-2014 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:36 PM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
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This turned out to be a VERY simple fix! I emailed Tony Candela this morning and he had me check all of the connectors... Yea, that simple... The dash harness had the left/right signal wires reversed in the connector. I swapped the wires in the cluster connector and everything works great!
Finally, I am able to relax on this car a bit. The wiring is fixed, the back up lights and all of the turn signals work and it fires right up when I hit the key!
I redid the N/S switch, removing the wires from a switch down on the trans to a new switch I installed on the shifter. It starts every time now but I need to adjust the micro-switch. It starts fine in Park but it also starts in Reverse and not in neutral. The switch has a long lever arm. I need it to be about a 1/4" shorter. Has anyone re-bent one of these arms? I have looked for a switch with a shorter arm but no luck so far.
Mark
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:53 AM
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You can bend the arm but bee sure and use two pairs of needle nosed pilers..... one to hold and stabilize the lever and the other to do the bending...... the mounting point for the lever isn't very stout and is easily damaged. In my work we use thousands of micro switches and I have bent thousands of them with great success.
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