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Old 08-19-2008, 01:24 PM
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Carter AFB WOT tuning

My buddies carter afb has a substantial back fire out of the tail pipe after a wot run (not just the normal popping).

My guess is that it is caused from being too rich.

Do the metering rods or jets control this on the carter?

My experience has always been with holley's.

Thanks

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Old 08-19-2008, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70bird
My buddies carter afb has a substantial back fire out of the tail pipe after a wot run (not just the normal popping).

My guess is that it is caused from being too rich.

Do the metering rods or jets control this on the carter?

My experience has always been with holley's.

Thanks
Yes the Carter uses metering rods.

This is what's called the WOT rich hook. It usually takes playing with the air correction jets to cure. But this process works better for engines that live at WOT, for a street engine that goes there now and again, leaning out the power circuit is probably the better choice. This can be done with a different spring under the control piston to affect timing on/off and or by changing the rods to a version with a larger diameter power step which will make the opening in the jet smaller.

Bogie
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Old 08-19-2008, 01:49 PM
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here's a link to the easy to digest Edelbrock carb tuning manual manual....

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf

operationally identical to a AFB....

troubleshooting chart is page 22?

there's so much Hg (like 24Hg) when you back off the WOT throttle there's not much chance at all that the rods are hanging in the "up" rich position....

when you totally back off the linkage the carb reverts to the independent "tiny" gas feed idle circuit....

I'd test for dist cap spark scatter or wires cross fire and/or wires arcing first
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Old 08-19-2008, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
I'd test for dist cap spark scatter or wires cross fire and/or wires arcing first
How do you check for spark scatter and cross fire. I've read to check for arcing by turning off the lights (in the garage).
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:28 AM
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"spark scatter" is almost a slang saying for "spark delivered at a erratic wrong time"

that can be caused by anything from a stretched timing chain to a worn out dist body gear/bearings/plate....

simplest test is turn the rpms up to at least 3600+ with the carb linkage screw and look for any timing marks change highlighted with your timing light....if all is well it should stay dead on to about 1* of what ever your TT is....

most common cross fire problem is the 2 cylinders that fire in succession in the dist....
if the dist rotor see's alot less total resistance path to the wrong plug it will jump from the rotor to that cap terminal....
burned away (bigger gap) cap terminal/broken plug wire/fouled plug/loose-bad cap or plug connect will do it....

if you do have a high amps ign the second common cause for cross fires is carbon tracing's build up in the cap.....
happens a bit more often/sooner with a non vented cap due to ozone build up....
inspect the inside of the cap to be sure the plastic between the cap terminals is pristine clean....

(I should have included this in my first post)
any SS 5VDC ign module is extremely sensitive for NO resistance in the ground neg supply path because they do get hot and that can/will make the IC chip go whacko.....

if the module has a ground wire, wire it direct back to the batt neg (#12 for normal amps, #10 for high amps)
if it picks up ground off the cent plate, use a really soft smaller wire so the plate can move freely back to the batt neg

here's a likely more clear and better than my post article link on ign problems and cures....
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...ech/index.html
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