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Old 07-07-2005, 02:35 AM
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case hardening/tempering parts?

Does anyone know anything about case hardening or tempering engine/transmission parts? I would like to increase durability on the cheap and these methods seem promising. I assume most parts are not factory case hardened or tempered but I really have no idea. If I can case harden/temper parts does anyone know what kind of strength increase will result? I know a lot of people are cryo treating nowadays but im looking for something proven that I can do myself. Thanks ahead of time

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Old 07-07-2005, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by thisisausername
Does anyone know anything about case hardening or tempering engine/transmission parts? I would like to increase durability on the cheap and these methods seem promising. I assume most parts are not factory case hardened or tempered but I really have no idea. If I can case harden/temper parts does anyone know what kind of strength increase will result? I know a lot of people are cryo treating nowadays but im looking for something proven that I can do myself. Thanks ahead of time
I would think it highly unlikely that anything the backyard guy could do would be much of an improvement..Factory parts are already "treated" and work fine out of the box..

Takes quite a bit to do hardening or treating properly..If anything learn to do die penetrent or magnaflux so you start with good pieces in your build..

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Old 07-07-2005, 06:14 AM
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What kind of parts are you dealing with?

also I know a guy/buddy with a cryo biz. You can do it in your garage but....
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Old 07-07-2005, 07:49 AM
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You would be better off sending parts out for Nitriding, carburizing parts will require refinishing and the part distortion will be excessive from the heat.
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:18 AM
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Nitriding we generally think of as being "recent" but it was actually first used by the Asians in making their swords.
The Ninja swords are short and straight but the Katanas are curved.

This curve came from heating the blade and submerging all but the back of the blade in the water and reheating and submerging the blade again, just a hairline less. This was continued over and over until just the sharpened edge was submerged.
The result was that the blade would curve and allow more of a slicing action than a chopping action but not only that. that it would be softer at the thick part and more brittle at the sharpened edge allowing for a flexible sword and a brittle, razor sharp blade.

Over time they found that if they used piss it would become even harder. And that was the first nitrated metal.
Some blades for the upper class were tested first. They were then marked, with the highest marks being three skulls or two pelvises.
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