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Old 02-13-2004, 08:50 AM
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Cast steel or Forged Crank?????

Im building anouther 351w stroker ford motor, and in the past I have always bought forged cranks, and now Im considering two options a scat cast steel or a forged 4340 scat crank. The motor is for a weekend car with occasional 1/4 mile runs. 500hp with 200 shot of nitrous. total of 700hp. Scat claims the cast is good for 700hp, but said some people have ran 800-900hp, buy they didnt recommend going past 700. Has anyone used the scat 9000 series. I would like to hear from people who have USED the scat 9000 cranks.

Ben

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Old 02-13-2004, 09:54 AM
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I perfer Scats Nodular Iron stuff. I personally have never used, but I have sold 100's in the past. The SB cranks will live under that kind of power no problem.

Chris
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:56 AM
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Of course, if you were running an early hemi you would already have a forged steel crank! They never made cast ones!!!!!
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:38 AM
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Im using a scat 9000 400sbc crank for my 383. I plan on squeezing a 200 shot this year as well. A couple people I know as well have used this crank well over 700 to the wheels as well. Its all about the tuning baby
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Old 02-13-2004, 12:16 PM
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I have serious problems with Scat cranks, mainly with balance, but also with sizing and run-out problems.

Were I to build an engine with the power level you anticipate and especially with the nitrous, I would opt for at least the Eagle 4130 series, if not the 4340 series. The former have induction hardened rod and main journals and the latter have nitrided journals. The sizing and balance on these cranks are much closer than Scat's. Both series are cross-drilled and have .125" journals for added strength.
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Old 02-13-2004, 12:24 PM
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Personally, I would worry about the mains 'walking' sideways LONG before considering a forged crank mandatory!! (I'm not saying the forged crank isn't a good idea - IT IS!!).

I would run a main cap girdle sytem w/ARP main studs to make the bottom end as bulletproof as possible!! That will help ensure that even a nodular iron crank will live a much longer life!!
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Old 02-13-2004, 07:12 PM
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I have a SCAT 9000 cast crank in my 331. Quality and machine work was excellent. Every journal right on the money. Balanced out just fine with some drilling (28oz not 50) which is typical.

The block will probably go south before the crank does.
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:11 PM
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For big horsepower, like 600 horsepower and over, I prefer Callies cranks any day. They are very expensive, but I've seen them take some unbelievable beatings and survive to run in another engine.

I think that believing that 700 horsepower is safe for a cast crank is pushing it. If you've spent enough money to make that kind of power, why skimp on the very foundation of the engine. I would only use the cast cranks for maybe a cheap roundy round engine or a hot street peeler. For serious competition , you need a quality, name brand crank.
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:06 PM
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Why bother with a forged crank, 700HP (on the bottle!) from a stock block 351w means it a grenade anyway. You are planning to drive a 1.5hp/ci engine on the street?

Sounds like a magazine article we are talking about here is it not? you know the ones that tell you that "so and so" combo is a streetable combination that gets 20MPG and turns 10's at the track? 500HP is quite a feat to achieve with a cylinder wall about .160" thick. If you want a big block build one, stroking a bread and butter engine like the 351w for 500Hp is an exercise in futility.

Get a nice 428 or 429CJ and go from there, they have much thicker blocks that can take 500HP with ease...not to mention they have forged cranks already.
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Old 02-14-2004, 10:32 AM
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You do not need a big block to make 500HP. I don't know much about Ford engines, but I do know my small block Chevy 385ci makes right at 500HP (on pump gas) and has been together for years. I do not race it every weekend, and it is driven on the street regularly (I don't believe in or own a trailer).

I agree it is easier to make big power with more cubic inches, but where the challenge in that? These days 500HP is not a lot.

Royce
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Old 02-14-2004, 10:58 AM
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I agree with those saying you need more crank than a nodular iron SCAT for a 700 HP engine. That is alot of power to risk on a cast crank IMHO. You also need to think about cylinder wall and main cap stabilization. I would suggest at least a short fill and studs, but that is just me.

Chris
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Old 02-14-2004, 12:21 PM
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A 350 Chevy engine has much thicker cylinder walls especially the earlier versions. Don't get me wrong I have built 3-351W over the years (69, 70 and 71 block) and I think that 400 HP is the limit for the stock components...and only if it is built right. Start moving the ring land around to make room for a long stroke crank and your asking for trouble.

Hey, nobody says it's not possible but why spend all that money on a small block and have it barely driveable when a lightly built big block can idle in traffic all day long producing that level of HP and more torque when you need it.

Just my opinion, it's your money.
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Old 02-14-2004, 02:31 PM
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I would get a Scat 4340 just for a piece of mind. Later on in life you might want to make more power and the need for a forge bottom will already be there. I bought a Scat 9000 for my SBC 400 and had Eagle ESP Rods and Wiseco Pistons but as the days went on I just kept telling myself I needed to get a forge crank, well last week I sold the Scat 9000 and bought a 4340. The whistle sound it makes when you tap it is music to the ears and a stout bottom end. I will be close to 500 hp/tq and maybe in the future I might add a little NOS so I went ahead and built the bottom end now rather than later. AS for building Small Block vs Big Block you need to also factor in the extra weight of the big block. I had the option of getting big block but the extra weight and addition of extra parts needed that I could not transfer from the small block seem more reasonable. There are a lot of SB that will eat big blocks for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner but thats another topic..Build whats in your budget and heart that will please you!!!
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Old 02-14-2004, 03:15 PM
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I agree, power to weight ratio is better with a small block. Plus a big block has a much harder time getting the power to the ground, unless you have a pretty modified rear suspension. I like the challange of building powerful small blocks and I love seeing the faces of big block owners when I pull on them in a race . Anyways, back to the point, In my opinion, I would go with a 4340 forged crank, just for piece of mind.
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Old 02-20-2004, 09:53 AM
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Well I picked up a Forged steel Ford motorsport crank for 525$ on e-bay. It was just what I wanted too, 3"mains with chevy journals. The guy said it's new never used, it was only installed for clearencing the block. I checked online and its a 1200$ crank. Not sure if its 4340 or not though, I have never used ford motorsport cranks before.

thanks for all the advice
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