Okay--I have a 59 ElCamino that I needed to get tubular upper control arms for.
Needed to do this to gain a little extra clearance between the #1 exhaust port of the 454 I put in the car. The stamped steel arm only gave me 3/16" clearance between the cast iron header (tightest I could find at 3") and the flange of the original arm. Also-with dropped spindles I had waaaayyy too much positive caster--no room to adjust. Tubular arms gave me lots of negative CAMBER . The closest the alignment people could get out of it was -1* camber.
I am attempting to get as close to 0* camber as possible but still maintain some positive caster. I know (dumb pollock--might be wrong here) that the positive caster is essential for stability,antidive, & steering return.
What is the importance of camber??
After the alignment I milled .125" from the mounting surface of the upper arm shaft to push the top of the wheel out a bit more. According to my book on this 1/8" would change camber by 3/4*. And it did take away the appearance of the car being collapsed in the front.
All bushings are new-HDfront springs provide the correct height.
This particular frame had absolutely no shims in it when I got it and it still appeared to have neg.camber
Upper control arms are from Air Ride Tech, And I did ask Tony if he had run into an issue like this before. Nope, he also asked me to contact him again after milling these shafts to see if it actually helped.
So Tony---If you pop in here---I am working on it.
I see so many newer cars that appear to have negative camber (my NEW Ranger being one of them) I just wonder if camber is over rated.
How far Neg can I be before tire wear is an issue?
How important is Camber other than both sides being the same?
Last edited by Bryan59EC; 07-07-2006 at 08:59 AM.
Reason: incorrect phrase