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Old 10-23-2005, 12:27 PM
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Cavalier window motors

Hey you guys, I am just finishing up a paintjob on a 2000 cavalier and the front windows wouldnt operate...I replaced the motors on both sides of the front and now the rear windows ( 4 door) quit working.... I checked the fuse and everything is fine... The only window working now is the passenger side... Would you say this is in the switch or am I looking at something more here??

The switch is in the center console for all 4 windows....I popped it out when I first got the car and best to my knowledge it is one unit with all 4 together.... I am fixing the windows as a favor for someone and am trying not to sink a great deal of time in them.... Anyone have some info for me I would really appreciate it.

Matthew

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Old 10-23-2005, 01:23 PM
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Loose connection

one is to have someone try and operate the windows and see if you are getting power to the window motors..sometimes those connections corrode and cause problems..you can also use a jumper to see if the motors work..jump off of a battery to the motor contacts..

Good luck

OMT
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Old 10-23-2005, 01:49 PM
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OMT I checked the motors with a jig I set up with my battery charger.. They work fine, and also checked the connections to see if that was the culprit... No luck yet

Mattehw
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:01 PM
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All the switch does is reverse polarity on the motors. If you have a bad ground to the switch or no power to the switch. It will not let the motors function. Any number of things can be the problem. I would make sure you have power and ground at the switch first. You really need a wiring diagram so you can jumper the motor wires at the switch. Being that the car is a 00 model. I dought you have a broken wire unless its been wrecked. Seeing as you have one window working and Im assuming this is the only switch in the car for windows I would bet on a switch problem. Good Luck
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:31 PM
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Thanks Duece, and the car had been wrecked before.. she bought it at auction sale for next to nothing and wanted me to paint it and fix the windows for her... I will try and get a diagram for it tomorrow and track which wire is hot and ground, turn on the key if it is dead then we know the culprit, if not we have a bad switch

Matthew
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Old 10-23-2005, 08:31 PM
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grounding

Doc here,

Here is your window schematic as well as door locks for a 00 Cav...



To test for errant ground, open the door, set your DMM for V x 15 or higher, find a good body ground (or jumper to the battery..then put the other probe on the door ground and have someone hit that window switch, If the meter reads 12 volts, you have no door ground.

Since you say you just painted the car, I'd go through and do the grounds this way..as paint will change the physics of bonding..


You should set up your ground buss in this manner, for good LONG LASTING , reliable bonding:

The battery cable ground to any handy bolt at or near the starter.

From there, get a battery cable that has 2 3/8 ring terminals on it ($6 bucks at wally mart or auto parts place) and ground that to the frame..



From that same engine block ground at the starter, run 2 #10 wires, the first to the firewall, and the second to the alternator ground lug or mount bolt...

USE proper Star washers,

..


Sheet-metal screws / bolts and locks, and burnish ALL the paint and grease from the grounding areas..this will give you a rugged reliable grounding system that will most likely outlast the car...

For total proper bonding, you should score a roll of braided ground strap, and install braided strap in the following manner: Doors to Door posts, fenders to frame, hood to firewall, radiator to radiator support, trunk to body, and finally , gas filler flap to body, again, burnish, use stars and locks, you can use tech screws if no handy screws are around..

This will insure the body is at ground potential..AND provide GOOD RFI protection for radio and communication devices!

Ground is the most overlooked problem in vehicle trouble shooting, and the most common cause!

ALSO: WORD OF CAUTION:

Never test with a Battery charger IN the car..When ever you charge a system Keep the key Off..

The reason is MOST chargers consist only of a transformer and a diode bridge..They Don't filter AC very well at all..No Bypass caps, No Electrolytic To filter the ripple out...

Evidenced By if you have EVER turned on a car radio while it was on charge..it Hums so badly, you turn it right back off...

You Can Damage the Vehicle Computer, The Dizzy Module, Any Component that is linear or C/HMOS From the resulting ripple..Clocks (digital) And Instrument Cluster (LCD) are susceptible..

If you need to test, (and it's low current) use a proper bench supply, that is filtered and regulated, OR if you don't want to spend $150 for a good one..get a 12 volt lantern battery, OR a motorcycle or Snowmobile Battery for test purposes..To be safe..

Doc
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Old 10-23-2005, 10:23 PM
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On what doc vette was saying about caution with chargers welders etc.... I had a 03 Buick in the shop a couple months ago that was hit by lightning. As a result it fried the computer, the abs controller, the air bag computer,the on star computer, the radio, the inst cluster, the alternator and the ignition module! Just thought that may be interesting. I work in a auto electric specialty shop and stuff like this is common place.
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