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Old 05-29-2006, 10:21 PM
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CCR T Bucket Plans Questions

Hi Guys,

I've always like the looks of a T bucket and just recently got a hand-me-down set of California Custom Roadster frame plans.

I've just started looking at them and have a couple questions, I was hoping to find some input from those experience building T Buckets and maybe even with someone who's followed the CCR plans.

*) Are the fiberglass bodies pretty much standard in dimensions? I ask because I live near Lincoln, NE and I could pick a body up from Speedway Motors and save the shipping, but I wonder if their body fits on the CCR frame.

*) Is there a reason for using the round tube to make the front of the frame? I see Speedway and others also use a round tube in the front but using a square tube I would think would be easier.

*) I'm using a cheap CAD program (Delta CAD) to draw the plans into -> I find that helps me visualize/build things if I "build" it in CAD first. I drew up the frame, riser, and rear extension, and took off for the wrap around the tube that makes up the front of the frame and then did a quick overall length, it appears to be 102-1/2" . . . is that correct?

*) Does the frame length depends upon truck box or turtle deck to be installed?

*) Scanning the threads on this site I saw a reference to lengthening the CCR frame a couple inches for better firewall clearance when using a SBC with HEI . . . good idea?

*) I also saw a reference to lengthening the frame and using an A or home built pickup box . . . anyone done this? Do you lengthen the portion behind the kick up?

*) The plans I have just detail using the Corvair steering box, but the Speedway catalog says the Vega box is the better choice. It also appears that the Vega box is easier to come by - even reproductions are being made. Is the Vega the better choice on this frame? Anyone have details of using the Vega box in this frame?

Thanks for any input - I'm sure I'll have a bunch of other questions as I look at the plans closer!

Steve

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Old 05-29-2006, 10:45 PM
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Just to be sure on dimensions I think it would be a good idea to go shead and get the body you intend to use so you have it for reference..

The round tube looks better and is not all that difficult to work with..Just use a hole saw and cu tthe holes in the frame tubes where the tube needs to be..

Overall length of the frame is what ever you need it to be..I know that is not much help but these things are a design build sort of deal..I like 106" for wheelbase myself as it gives some stretch out room..Which is good for a first time builder..

As far as sterring box is concerned there are some options there..the vega is a good choice and have been very popular..

The CCR plans have been around for along time and are a good guide but we have learned a thing or three since they were drawn..

Good luck Let us know when you cut steel!!

Sam
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:13 PM
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Might be a little off topic, but has anyone ever thought about using one of those aluminum beds off of those little wagons that you haul behind a four-wheeler or a lawnmower? They are Tilt-beds, but they are about the same size as a Model-A bed, and maybe A little bigger. All you would need was some way to fasten it to the frame, since they already have holes drilled, and you would have a bed you might actually use....to put a battery in, and maybe a few other things.

Better than $150.00+ for a fiberglass one thats pretty useless.

-GF
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:01 AM
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Steve.Robertson - OneMoreTime has given you some great answers. Here is a link to the technical index pages or the National T Bucket Alliance. They are a group of T buckets guys and gals. Between them and this site you will be able to build that bucket you have always wanted.

http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.c.../techindex.asp
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Old 05-30-2006, 09:09 AM
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Thanks!

Thanks guys!

One of the reasons I think a T or A hot rod would be so enjoyable is because unlike a restoration there's nothing really right or wrong with whatever path I take and I can see those path's are already presenting themselves.

The technical index at the NTBA site is great! I've just looked around a bit, but so far I've found several interesting articles there - thanks!

One thing I haven't seen covered - the choice of rear end . . . the CCR plans say they use the '70 Charger rear end as the center section is on center where as the Chevy center section is off center. Is this still the current common practice? I imagine finding a '70 Charger rear may be a little hard these days, but that probably wasn't specific to the '70 Charger so are there better specs on what I should be searching for in the salvage yards?

"Between them and this site you will be able to build that bucket you have always wanted."

Hmmm, building the one I always wanted . . . can we pass the hat to help me fund that vehicle???

Thanks again guys!

Steve
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Old 05-30-2006, 11:58 AM
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As far as funding is concerned if one is determined and persistent one can get there...Just start picking up parts each month..

To save a bunch on intial outlay go with the plain parts..no chrome or billet..and paint them or powder coat as the budget allows..You will be plesantly surprised at how it goed of you go this way..Mine has been under construction for about 2 years now and I am making progress little by little..

Sam
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Old 05-30-2006, 03:34 PM
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re: CCR T Bucket Plans Questions

Thanks Sam,

Yes, I think a little each month is the way I'll go so passing the hat probably wont be necessary.

In fact I'm more of a "minimalist" than anything . . . I prefer painted/powder coated stuff over plated anyway. In fact I'm even considering primer as the main paint job!

I just want a fun, low tech cruiser . . . no jag rears, no 6-71s, etc. necessary.

A friend just called and said he'd loan me a copy of "How to Build a T-Bucket Roadster on a Budget" by Chester Greenhalgh . . . can't wait to peruse it tonight!

Take Care,

Steve
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Old 05-30-2006, 03:35 PM
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I have built 2 buckets and working on my third. The CCR plans are great. Total has a great set of plans also. I belong to the NTBA, great bunch of folks. Nothing but T Buckets there. You need to get on their BBS. If I can help ya email me tbucket@comcast.net
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Old 05-30-2006, 03:49 PM
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Ntba

I just registered with the NTBA public BBS today and looked around a bit but I haven't had much time to dig through all the posts yet. The interface didn't seem as user friendly as the one here, but I may be missing some configuration settings or something - again I didn't spend much time on it but I will later tonight . . . I'm just catching up on my email right now so I'm not really surfing (I'm subscribed to the thread so it emails me when someone replies and of course I've then gotta go see what the replay was!).

I'll stick your email in my T-Bucket group for future reference . . . THANKS, I'm sure talking to someone who's been there and done it will really help!

Take Care,

Steve
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Old 05-30-2006, 03:55 PM
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I have a total performance t and their plans and parts are excelent. Their support is second to none. I would recomend buying the frame done unless you are a real good welder and have the jigs to be sure everything is straight and can hold it that way while welding. The frame itself is fairly cheap. I have a ford 8" rear in mine. i built mine in about 2 months, it was fairly easy and I did everything except the interior roll. after 10 hours or so on it i decided to take it to the interior shop. They did it in 3 hours and did a better job than I could have ever done.
If you have any questions or whatever, pm me here or email me at clawrence123@charter.net

Good luck with it
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:35 PM
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I'm using a GM 10-bolt rear in mine, 3.73 gears. These are very common and not a wallet-buster like the Ford 9". If you're going to have less than 400 horsepower, these are very satisfactory with the addition of a differential girdle which will beef up the main bearing caps. I'm running about 300 HP in mine and the rear end has been been great for this car. These are very light cars so they are relatively easy on the gears vs what they were originally built for.
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:50 PM
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Here is a couple of links to check out for reference about rear ends:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/48618/

http://50chevy.freeservers.com/Suspe...tml#Suspension

There are lots of ways to build a frame for your T. You could go the suicide front end way or Model A type front suspension. Here are some links to frame building. There may be some duplication.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...referrerid=8748

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ead.php?t=87556

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jou...age=1&reverse=1
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Old 05-30-2006, 09:14 PM
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Thanks HomeBrew, however the jalopy journal pages don't seem to be working for me . . .
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Old 05-30-2006, 09:20 PM
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I started reading the How To Build a T Bucket on a Budget book tonight . . . interesting read, though he seems to kinda rely on swap meets to save money (mostly for front end parts and steering boxes) and unfortunately I work weekends so taking time off to attend them isn't a good option for me.

The frame he details is wider at the back than at that front . . . is this common in T frames?

It's an interesting read - especially the part showing the mounting of the body and installation of the floor.

Well, back to reading . . .

/Steve
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Old 05-30-2006, 09:55 PM
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I just tried the sample page from Total Peformance's web site for their T Bucket plans . . . using Adobe Acrobat 7.0 Professional it wouldn't print out right, but using Acrobat 5.0 Professional (I have both loaded on the same machine (upgraded hard drive)) it would print out OK . . . anyone else have that problem???


Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
I have a total performance t and their plans and parts are excelent. Their support is second to none. I would recomend buying the frame done unless you are a real good welder and have the jigs to be sure everything is straight and can hold it that way while welding. The frame itself is fairly cheap. I have a ford 8" rear in mine. i built mine in about 2 months, it was fairly easy and I did everything except the interior roll. after 10 hours or so on it i decided to take it to the interior shop. They did it in 3 hours and did a better job than I could have ever done.
If you have any questions or whatever, pm me here or email me at clawrence123@charter.net

Good luck with it
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