[Mustangsaly]

I was thinking theres some of you running Centerline Auto Drag Wheels. well I have a center cap Question.

I bought some used Centerline Auto Drag wheels and they had no center caps. but I thought no problem, and I bought a set of aftermarker caps with the bow tie on them. there the same size as the centerline center caps at summit. but there to small to fit in my wheels. I looked at a buddies centerline wheel and hes wheels he bought new from centerline, and they have a insert ring type thing in the hole that the center cap snaps into. mine don't have that ring. anyone know where I can get this part ?

I called summit but they were no help but tech help is mon thur fri and centerline is mon thur fri

thanks

centerline cap



the cap I bought

[NEW INTERIORS]

You can also bring your wheels to a machine shop,And the can cut the ring inside of them,So the caps can lock in.

[Mustangsaly]

I called centerline, all centerline wheels since the start in 1969 say centerline and the date in between the lug nut holes. so thats the problem, I don't think these are true centerline wheels. the rears 15 x 8 1/2 with 4 7/8" back spacing I bought from my son in law. the fronts 15 x 3 1/2 I bought off ebay. they will be here tomorrow. centerline talked like the caps with the a flared ring might go in from the back of the wheel. I would like to try some b4 ordering any, so I might try a tire store. the piece can not be machined in cause its smaller than the wheel center. or can it ?





these are the 15 x 3 1/2" I have coming, that I bought off ebay. I can't see centerline on these

[pigjamelectric]

I just checked my own centerline rims. I didn't know the date was stamped. Mine were made in '82. But, like you, "centerline" isn't stamped there. It only appears in large "CENTER" (lug hole) "LINE".

What does appear stamped is "For use with bias tires only"

Bias as in Bias ply? In '82? As if! What does this mean?

---

EDIT:

I just did some research to answer my own question and google found the explaination right here on good ol' HR.

Originally Posted by el pollo

Supposedly it has to do with the density of the aluminum. Cast wheels that use a pour only method will flex more, and are better suited with bias tires, which do not flex in the sidewall nearly as much as a radial. Back in the 90s, American Eagle had issued with their cast wheels with radial tires. Oftentimes the wheels would develope small stress cracks, and cause leaks.

Vacuum-drawn cast wheels are more durable because the cooling is more even. These wheels flex less and are better suited for radial tires. They are also more common as the method is becoming cheaper to use in wheel production. As an example, OE Ford wheels are often stamped with "Radial tire only" on the inside of the wheel.

Forged wheels (which Centerline usually forges their wheels) are dictated on whether they are intended for radial or bias by the thickness of the aluminum.

Centerline likely stamped "bias ply only" because if you had a radial tire mounted onto the wheels, it's more likely that the wheel will bend under load. Also, if you fasten the slick (assuming you use it for drag racing) with sheet metal screws, a radial tire, due to it's flex, may cause the aluminum to tear and may pose a liability issue with Centerline.

original thread

[Mustangsaly]

Originally Posted by pigjamelectric

I just checked my own centerline rims. I didn't know the date was stamped. Mine were made in '82. But, like you, "centerline" isn't stamped there. It only appears in large "CENTER" (lug hole) "LINE".

What does appear stamped is "For use with bias tires only"

Bias as in Bias ply? In '82? As if! What does this mean?

---

EDIT:

I just did some research to answer my own question and google found the explaination right here on good ol' HR.



original thread

yours are true centerlines, true centerlines say center a lug hole then line.

my 15 x 3 1/2 ebay specials came today. there true center lines. they say centerline and a date of 05-23-97 and look Great ! I gave $173.50 to my door, about 1/2 of new price. wheels are dirty but nice. really my 15 x 8 1/2
rears are not true centerlines. but look as good IMO, just the centerline caps won't fit them. my 15 x 3 1/2 centerlines don't say bias ply only. but I'm running mickey thompson bias ply L60 15s rears and mickey thompson 26 X 7.50 X 15 fronts. heres pics of my front centerlines

[F&J]

I was looking at mine today to see if they were marked Center Line. Yup. Mine don't have the detail near the center hole like yours. Yours look like a ring in the center?? or is that a machined groove? I see lettering around yours, mine has nothing that I noticed. Mine are OLD I think, for the tiny 5 on 4" mopar dart valiant (early).

[Mustangsaly]

Originally Posted by F&J

I was looking at mine today to see if they were marked Center Line. Yup. Mine don't have the detail near the center hole like yours. Yours look like a ring in the center?? or is that a machined groove? I see lettering around yours, mine has nothing that I noticed. Mine are OLD I think, for the tiny 5 on 4" mopar dart valiant (early).

mine are 15" X 3 1/2" chevy 4 3/4" 5 hole wheels. mine look like a machined groove, I'm sure my buddies centerlines were more like a insert that moved. but maybe I'm wrong, but I just looked at his Saturday. on that center piece on the machined looking ring, it says the date and read & understand instructions ect.

I wondered if a machine shop could make a ring that would snap in there and expand tight and hold a centerline C70 center cap ? on my non real centerlines ?


what center caps are you running ? can you snap a pic of your wheels and of the center ?

[F&J]

How about in the morning? It's pouring and the shop is a walk

Mine are 14x6 Mopar early Dart 4" bolt circle fronts

Rears are 14x7 same 4" BC

Caps are original OLD Centerline plastic snap in caps...so old that some lost most of the chrome.

[Mustangsaly]

yeah tomorrow next day when ever.

you think a piece could be made to go in the wheel center to hold the original centerline style snap in plastic cap ?


your caps like these ?

[F&J]

Mine has a machined flat spot on both sizes, but no date code or any info on that surface. Does say CENTER LINE between lugs. It's definately not a seperate ring, but I'll bet you could get a ring made and press it into your clone wheels to get matching caps on all 4 wheels.

[speedydeedy]

Too bad you are not closer ,I could make you some ring adapters on my lathe.It would probably cost as much to ship them here and back as it would to pay a local shop to do it.

[Mustangsaly]

Originally Posted by speedydeedy

Too bad you are not closer ,I could make you some ring adapters on my lathe.It would probably cost as much to ship them here and back as it would to pay a local shop to do it.

well I wish You would make me some adaptors, nearest machine shop is 60 miles.





thanks

[F&J]

Originally Posted by Mustangsaly

well I wish You would make me some adaptors, nearest machine shop is 60 miles.





thanks

If you could accurately measure the hole in your clone wheels, there would be no need to ship the wheels. You can't fit a normal vernier caliper in the wheel; maybe someone near you has a smaller caliper, or a bore gauge, or? Then just measure the correct hole size on the real Centerline wheel to get the I.D.

[Mustangsaly]

Originally Posted by F&J

If you could accurately measure the hole in your clone wheels, there would be no need to ship the wheels. You can't fit a normal vernier caliper in the wheel; maybe someone near you has a smaller caliper, or a bore gauge, or? Then just measure the correct hole size on the real Centerline wheel to get the I.D.

thanks,

I will get someone with something to measure these for me. you have a plan on how to do this ? some thing like a piece of pipe with a cut in it, so you can squeeze it together and put it in the wheel then when you let go it opens and expands ? the piece you make needs a groove about a 1/4" down for the cap to snap into. I will measure so I know if its a 1/4" or 3/16" or what ever.

[F&J]

Not a split ring. Make a solid ring to be pressed into the wheel, just the way a bearing race gets pressed into a hub. Probably a .001 or so interference fit. The inside groove could be easily cut on a lathe with the correct bit & tool holder...not a big deal, as this IS a simple part.

Make the ring short enough so when you press it in, that it goes deeper than the face of the wheel. Then it will look exactly like the original Centerline which has that machined area.

"if" someone had some thick wall alum pipe, it would be fast to zip them out with a simple lathe. If you had to start with a solid alum shaft, it would be more work to machine these.