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Old 05-02-2008, 08:54 PM
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Ceramic coatings

Hello
I am going to be using headers on my old vette and although my funds are limited( spent quite a bit) now on my project, I was wondering about ceramic coating the headers
I sprayed the interior of the car in Lizard Skin, but I don't know if that will be enough to keep the car bearable to drive?
Anyone done before and after tests for coatings and temp reduction?
I would rather coat them next winter if I can, to get the headers off I have to pull the motor...(custom and a PITA) but if it is a must , I would rather do it before I put the motor in
How about short term use with header wraps?
thanks
Tom

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Old 05-02-2008, 11:56 PM
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I don't have any before and after but I do know that header wraps will actually cook your headers to the point that they will fail. If the tubing gauge is 14/16 it will take some time but if they are the cheapy 18/20 gauge then watch out. Had an acquaintance that wrapped his and within a yr. they were history.
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Old 05-03-2008, 04:55 AM
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Yeah, header wrap's no good for a street car. The ceramic coating will reduce outside header temps by a couple of hundred degrees or so. Also, keeping the heat inside the header also makes them even more efficient, as another benefit.
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:31 PM
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Thanks for your replies
I was wondering if anyone knows how close the headers can get to fiberglass without burning down the car. I am going to be close at the bottom of the front fenders
take care
Tom
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Old 05-03-2008, 11:07 PM
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You know thats a call you're going to have to make. You might make up a couple of heat shields or hit the bone yard and find some that might work for your application.
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Old 05-04-2008, 12:22 AM
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The plan with the heat shields is to make a sandwich with two sheets of aluminum and use a spacer of some kind between the sheets. The dead air space between the sheets will protect your glass parts, particularly if you rig up a way for air to blow through the dead space.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:24 AM
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?????
you said you need to pull the motor to send out the headers for coating later on....

the 'used' headers surfaces have to be prepped and spot less to be coated later on.... after they have been used on the car....that's not "free" N/C at the coater's!!!

leave the stock manifolds on till you can afford ceramic headers...

yes you do need to be very careful with radiant heat near fiberglass....it will destroy the glas cloth resin glue....
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:25 AM
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duplicate post....

Last edited by red65mustang; 05-04-2008 at 05:24 AM.
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Old 05-04-2008, 06:03 AM
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Had JetHot coat my headers and the exhaust pipes, and used a heat barrier film on the bottom side of the fenders (fenderwell headers). Works great! The fenders seem to be protected very well, seeing that they do not heat up any more. Before, you could not touch them.

Jason
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Old 05-04-2008, 06:08 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I think I may get the headers coated and use the heat shield film as suggested
How much difference do you think the ceramic coating makes:
thanks
Tom
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Old 05-04-2008, 06:30 PM
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Recently I put a set of JBA shorties on a 351W in a truck. They were ceramic coated inside and out. Within 10 minutes of shut down I could touch them, but not the exhaust pipe @ the header. I was told that reduces the heat in the headers and sends it out to the pipes, which was evident on my 5 gas emissions analyzer.
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Old 05-04-2008, 07:09 PM
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I've also had my hookers jet hot coated and two suggestions; first the engine compartment still gets hotter than hell even being coated, second my headers still blistered and became dull where they mount to the heads. Jet hot does offer coatings to withstand 2000 degree temps, but they do not come in the bright silver finish just black,blue, maybe some other colors also. Jet hot will warranty them but you then have to pay shipping back to them. Good luck with the heat.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:28 PM
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If someone makes a coated header for your application it should be cheaper than having yours coated. Factory coated headers don't blister (at least mine haven't). It is the same with chroming, If the part is available chrome it is usually cheaper than having your part plated.
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Old 05-05-2008, 06:05 AM
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Tom,
food for thought...

"if" there is enough air flow cfm over the gazzillion square inches of headers pipes surface...there is no heat problem
the radiant heat is wicked away by the moving air...
so plan your engine bay accordingly


for stop and go heat into the cabin, just a layer of aluminum foil glued to the floorboards and firewall will block 80% of the radiant heat....(same as A/C foil duct tape)

way way better is to use a thin sheet of aluminum or steel with just a 1/4" needed air gap gap behind (as posted/described by Techinspector)....(same as a steel chimney liner or the catalytic convertor shield on a regular car)

for some parts/areas of the headers like the collectors it's easier to add the stand off heat shield to the pipe...that's fine also

DEFINITELY do make or buy a heat shield for the starter motor and solonoid...or better yet use a Ford remote solonoid....wires insulation and electric motors windings insulation and relay coil insulation are not designed to stand up to that much heat!!!!

(to try and answer your question in reference to how much cooler...)
if there is no air flow over the ceramic headers they will "eventually" be just as hot as uncoated headers....
what the ceramic does is buy you "time" by keeping more btu's trapped in the pipe till you can get the car moving.....
it's not "how much"....it's "how long"...and that depends on air flow

Last edited by red65mustang; 05-05-2008 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 05-05-2008, 02:37 PM
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Thanks for the info on the coatings. I was not aware that the headers would get just as hot when coated after sitting for a longer period of time
I have added vents into the car.when I did the body It is a 63 Vette that I made the hood grilles functional, added side vents to the fenders and I had cut part of the inner fender away. The scoop will also ram air in over the motor and I will only use the carb tray for the track
I really did not want to cut the inner fenders anymore, but I trimmed them a little extra on Sat,(along with a brace removal) which will allow quite a bit of air over the headers at speed. The headers go over the frame and out the sides and now will be able to be removed with the engine in the car after these alterations
My motor has been centered, re-angled etc so nothing will fit. They are big tubes, more for my 2nd motor, not this one which is my old drag car 427 (525 blown BBC is my next motor)
I may just build heat shields out of aluminum as you guys have described and use a heat barrier film and try them as is
I am spending money hand over fist on little things now. I was quoted $450 plus shipping and taxes for the headers which will end up being $600
That alone is not bad, but with everything else it adds up real fast
I really appreciate all of your help
thanks
Tom
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