[Warrant]

I think this is or should be a pretty simple process but Im not exactly sure of what to do. This is on a 1972 nova with a 75 350 going in.

Can someone give me a run down of what to do? Do I keep the voltage regulator or does that get eliminated completely? what wires are changed?

Thanks

[docvette]

Doc here,

What alternator will you be using? Si series, CS series, I wire or 3 wire..?

I would Strip all the old wires and install a new system for the upgrade..The old system was probably 67 Amps, and most likely your new system will be more than that..

After you remove the old..Install the new, using a proper fuse link from the "B" terminal on the solenoid (where the battery cable goes) and a 10 gauge wire to the Battery terminal on the Alternator, The small red 12 gauge terminal goes to 12 volts, and the Brown 12 gauge terminal goes to the lamp/bypass circuit and Ignition switch.

This is generically for a 3 terminal alternator, (the most common) which is most likely what you have..check to be sure first though.





Doc

[Warrant]

Hmmm for ease and simplicity and quickness of installing, should I just reuse my I6 250 alternator?

Im not sure of the series of my alternator, It looks like the one in the pic - I know its from a 1975 350 malibu and it has 3 wires that are connected to it...2 from a plus and 1 bigger red one.

Would using the I6 alternator be beefy enough to run a HEI dizzy?

Thanks

[docvette]

Originally Posted by Warrant

Hmmm for ease and simplicity and quickness of installing, should I just reuse my I6 250 alternator?

Im not sure of the series of my alternator, It looks like the one in the pic - I know its from a 1975 350 malibu and it has 3 wires that are connected to it...2 from a plus and 1 bigger red one.

Would using the I6 alternator be beefy enough to run a HEI dizzy?

Thanks

Doc here

Your I6 is probably 63 to 67 amp if stock..The HEI Can draw up to 40 amps depending on type coil..

What you want to do is figure out WORST CASE , (everything drawing) what the max ampacity is required to support the vehicle, and get as close to that figure as you can on an upgrade..

True, you won't be running full draw all the time, and the smaller may support it just fine, but I like to have some breathing room..(as the battery gets older , and accessories are added..)

But the choice is yours!

Doc

[Viet Nam Vette]

As the doc has stated in his excellent post's.. Mo Power.. Mo Power

I'm running a GMPZZ502 in my 65 Vette. I also have Daul Spal Fans on a Dewitts Rad. They alone draw around 30 Amps when running. I'm also running the MSD 6al Box with the MSD Blaster Coil. And a Converted radio at 140 Watts RMS. So there is some draw on my electrial system.

I'm runnibg a Powermaster 140 amp Alternator which at idle is factory dyno-ed out at 102 amps at around 900 rpm. This gives me plenty of power at idle to run the entire system without stressing the altenator since it is rate d at 140 amps.

Of course at night with the headlight's on it'll pull another approx 10 amps.
With everything running even at night with the headlamps on ..the ammeter is 1/16" to the positive charge side all the time at idle.

So. I would suggest a healthy alternator speced as per Doc's Recomendation.

Do not use a 1 wire system. Stick with the 3 wire set up.

[Warrant]

Hey! I just turned right to a page in Car Crafts October 2006 issue on pg 71, that explains how to convert exactly what I want to do!

It says their is a inexpensive kit to do it simple and looks stock for $19!

Its a M&H electric fabrications pn # 27555 : http://www.wiringharness.com/

it'll only let me put down that one url but look under FAQ's and go from their.

[Warrant]

Well now Im confused on what alternator I have

At first I thought it was just a SI series one from a '75 chev 350, but I forgot it was one my brother gave me. He told me it was off a '89 Jeep, which made me think it was the CS high output one. But he also said it was not the original Jeep alternator, was rebuilt, and its a direct replacement for the jeep.

On the top of the alternator it says "NAPA POWER Remanufactured Computer tested Alternator# 213-4352 12V 66A Rated Meets OEM performance Specifications Plant 5 11/09/04"

and on the back its says Delco-Remy Made In USA

Oh yea and it has the connector where two wires go in and the one red wire on the back.

??

Or is their a way to tell? Size Weight?

Thanks

[docvette]

Doc here,

Pretty sure it's an SI series..66 amp.

The CI series will have a different type of plug with more pins..(even tho 2 or 3 wires are only used)

To be sure look for Delco PN~321-135, that is the "60 amp" series SI..

Doc

[Warrant]

Im kinda of confused...to convert...

Can I just cut off the external voltage regulator connector (with 4 wires) and connect the red wire to the white and the brown to the blue. Then cut the original 2 wire alt. connector off (since it doesn't fit) and add the new alternators connector to the white and blue wire's????

I cant read those schematics very well...but I found another one that has pictures and it looks like that is all you do http://novaresource.org/alt/12sialt.jpg

[docvette]

Originally Posted by Warrant

Im kinda of confused...to convert...

Can I just cut off the external voltage regulator connector (with 4 wires) and connect the red wire to the white and the brown to the blue. Then cut the original 2 wire alt. connector off (since it doesn't fit) and add the new alternators connector to the white and blue wire's????

I cant read those schematics very well...but I found another one that has pictures and it looks like that is all you do http://novaresource.org/alt/12sialt.jpg

Doc here,

If you have to install a new plug at the alternator anyway..

Wire the Brown wire directly to the #1 Terminal, and The Red Wire to the #2 Terminal directly.

(forget about grafting the old blue and white, just remove or abandon and cap them safely out of the way.)

Otherwise , yes , you are correct.

Doc

[jazz1]

can anyone help me or show me where or how to setup a one wire alternator,battery , starter , distr(hei) ..so i can see if we will start.

tks jazz1

[docvette]

Doc here,

For Proper Connections, on an UNMOLESTED GM harness:

• Run the Pos Battery Cable to the Big bolt on the Starter Solenoid. (We assume it's a GM Car)
• Run the Ground cable to a bolt at or near the starter..Burnish the area from paint and grease and use a proper star and lock washer.
• From the Ignition switch, run the "Hot At all times" to the Big bolt on the solenoid, use a proper fuse link. (this will provide, Switched & Non Switched power to the Vehicle buss IF it hasn't Been hacked)
• From the IGNITION, "Hot in START only", wire that to the Neutral Safety Switch for the transmission, The other side of that switch goes to the "S" terminal on the Starter Solenoid. (DO NOT BYPASS!)
• From the Ignition, Run the "Hot in RUN only", to the HEI Battery terminal on the cap.
• On The One wire Alternator, Run a 10 gauge wire from it to the Big bolt on the starter, Via a proper Fuse link, (at the solenoid end) and from the ground lug, run a 10 gauge ground to the Ground cable bolt you selected at or near your starter.

If you have a stock unhacked harness..Everything will work properly..Including engine monitoring.

If you just want to crank and start the Engine ..First BE SURE you LOCK the linkage in park or Neutral AND no possibility can exist where it will fire and run away..driverless.

Hook a cable to the big bolt on the solenoid to the battery, a Ground cable from the Battery to a block bolt, a jumper to the "Batt" Terminal on the HEI from the Battery positive, and a remote Start switch (Doc's Def: Large screwdriver..I did not say that...I did not say that.. ) To the "S" terminal on the solenoid from the Big bolt on the solenoid (where the Battery cable goes in)..

It will Crank and fire if all else is proper..BUT be advised..you have no engine monitoring..you will not know if it's headed for overheat, or out of oil..so I wouldn't run it too long.

Doc